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ZJ build advise

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Old Jan 2, 2011 | 08:05 PM
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Crasher's Avatar
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From: Plover, WI & Benson, AZ
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Default ZJ build advise

My 97 ZJ has a 5 1/2" Clayton long arm lift, hp30 w/OXlocker, 8.8 w/lockrite, 488s, 231 w/sye, F&R bumpers etc. on 33" KM2s. After a few months of wheeling our new Unlimited Rubicon (well built), my wife has decided she likes the ZJ better. It's good to go as it is, but have a set of 35" MTRs w/k to put on it and am considering some improvements. 1. A 4:1 tc. (Love the roc-trac in the Rubi) 2.RCVs in the hp30 ( have them in the Rubi and are the best in a tight turn) & 3. A Detroit and Super 88 kit in the 8.8.

I realize much of the above is overkill, but being retired, we don't want any problems on the trail. The only thing I am unsure about is how much should I expect from an hp30? Is it a waste of time & money to put RCVs into it? Is a waggy hp44 much better? I'm pretty easy on the skinny pedal and have always tried to wheel smart.

Comments?? Advise??
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Old Jan 2, 2011 | 08:13 PM
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Texas XJeeper's Avatar
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I would go with the dana 44 thats my personal opinion. The rcv's are like $1400.00 (I think, could be wrong though). both HP so win win. Then your putting 35's on it. I've broken chrome alloy shafts in mine with 33's. but I'm kinda hard on it at times. Just my opinion..
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Old Jan 2, 2011 | 08:17 PM
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From: Bristol,Pa
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Like you i am gentle on the skinny pedal, looking for a better line vs heavy throttle. I have never broken a shaft or joint in a D30 with this mindset when i wheeled hard with 36's.

A bud has a ZJ on 35's with same axles your running, he does have upgraded alloy shafts and upgraded u-joints but i dont think he HAD to.

Grab a set of shafts with new joints and hub bearings as spares if you think you need to, quick enough to replace on trail as a whole assembly. If you find your breaking the same parts then you know your weak link and can upgrade then?
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 01:06 AM
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D30 is kind of weak for 33's or anything with a locker haha, I have broken my fair share of axle joints with 33's. Most of the time it destroys the axle and stub too. Keep in mind if you are going with a 4:1 gear set you can be applying that much more torque to the weak links.

I think by the time you upgrade a D30 with alloys and good joints you are getting close to stock strength of a D44. If a D44 is in your possibilties or budget, I think you would be better off.
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 08:40 AM
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From what I have read, the carrier is the only improvement with the 44. The knuckles tubes and shafts are the same. Or so I've read. That is the case with the JK 30 vs 44 regarding the tubes and knuckles. My Oxlocker in my hp30 is probably stronger than a 44 carrier. I've read a lot of posts that claim that the 44 is not enough of an upgrade over the 30 to warrant the cost. Are they all wrong? Or is there a 44 version that is better than others?

I have the 5-760 u-joints now with IROs "Almost Alloy" clips welded on and carry spares. I've never broke one on the 33s. I've followed others that have, but I try to wheel smarter than they do.

Last edited by Crasher; Jan 3, 2011 at 08:44 AM.
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