hello, i just got my first jeep! its a 95 orvis edition with the 5.2 v8. It has a few issues i need to get fixed so im hoping a new member can get some answers here. First and biggest issue it the fact that the front left cv axle is totally broken in half so the 4x4 dosent work and the joint makes noise, but thats an easy fix, the bigger issue is the thing rolls in parking gear...what would cause this? the thing runs and shifts perfect! it had a brand new OEM tranny put in 2 years ago so its just hard for me to beleave the tranny is broken already..could the linkage be out of adjustment? or could that broken axle cause the park not to engage and keep it from rolling? the previous owner said the park stopped working rite around the time the axle broke or maybe even at the exact time..they dont remember... im kind of lost when it comes to jeeps, this is my first so any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

By front left cv axle are you refering to the front drive shaft? Also dose it have the NV249 (full time 4wd).
If so it is the drive shaft that is causing it to roll in park. My wifes 95 had the same poroblem I got a new shaft that gets rid of the cv joint and puts a regular ujoint in its place. I would strongly suggest you get one that replaces the cv. They brake way to easy I broke 2.
Hope that helps

 

Even having a broke axle shaft with a full time t-case will let it roll. The t-case in hi doesn't have a 50/50 split so having a broke shaft lets it think it isn't rolling because the front carrier isn't moving due to how the spiders work in an open diff. For a quick fix put it in 4lo when you park and it shouldn't roll. CV axles sell for 50 bucks new and only take an hour or so to swap out and will solve your problem.

 

X2.

 

wow holy **** guys thanks for the super fast responses! and its just what i wanted to hear too!! i was thinking that the park not working was related. yes this has the np 249 transfer case i think the nv came in 96 but i may have that backwards.. so i called the local parts store and they want $61 a piece for the axles or cv joints or whatever they are called, its the thing with the rubber boot on the end, my drivers side one is totaly severed! haha so im going to replace both of them. the guy at the auto parts store showed me the passenger side shaft and it was crazy long! it looks like the passenger side is super long and goes the whole way through to the center of the pumpkin but then the drivers side is just a little short one..are these correct? Also would you guys feel ok using an aftermarket brand new shafts or should i use OEM? and whats this about a kind with a u-joint?

 

Aftermarket should be fine. Jeep used 2 kinds of axles in the front Dana 30. CV which you have and u-joint. You won't find the u-joint shafts at a parts store and aftermarket are usually chromolly and cost $600 and up. The u-joint type are serviceable and the CV are disposable. Most people say the CVs are junk but if you keep them greased and good boots on them to keep dirt, water and other junk out they are plenty strong and will last forever.

 

Yes, one axleshaft is longer than the other because the differential is offset to the drivers side.

You could swap out the CV jointed axleshafts for regular ujoint shafts from a junkyard or someone parting a Jeep.

I never knew a broken joint/cv would allow a rig to roll in park.. you guys sure about that? Or am i reading it wrong?

 

yeah i think ill just stick with the cv joint type for now..i mean the one that just broke is original to the jeep and it has almost 200k on the clock..so if the aftermarkets are as good as the originals i should never have to replace them again after this..are they easy to replace? do the hubs unbolt from the back on these or is the hub pressed into the spindle? can someone link me to an online 95 grand cherokee factory service manual? if there is one available. thanks

 

there is a junk 90's wrangler sitting at my work, are you saying that should have the axle with the u joint correct? so do u guys think i should go get that for free and just throw it on or should i just buy those aftermarket new ones?

 

Just wondering but what is the build date on your 95? My wifes has the 249 with the u-joint axle shafts.
I cant say for sure but the only problem that I for see with the wrangler shafts is that the wrangler probably has CAD disconnect. Basically the pass side shaft is spilt in 2. You would have to find axles out of another AWD axle.
Some one else on here might know for sure.

 

You will need one out of a 97 up wrangler and one with ABS or you will have problems with the ABS pulsing above 25 mph. Also the YJs have the less desirable smaller u-joint verses the newer larger dana 44 size that came in 97 and up and 96 and up XJs and all ZJs without CVs.

 

I've been torturing myself about this exact prob on my '01 GCL, so, I just tried the 4lo, & lo and behold, it didn't drift.. WTH?! The G is new to me, and I'm going over it bit by bit, and I've just been grumbling about the drift, and until now, wasn't getting anywhere in my searches, but I did think it odd that the front drive shaft is new/still has a label on it. So, the previous owner must've had a prob but didn't say anything. It's dark out, so I didn't look any closer, but very thankful to have a demonstrable answer. Thx xjmarc

 

usually when it rolls in park with a 249 tcase, it's the viscous coupler they used in the tcase. when they go bad, it rolls in park.

i've never heard of one rolling with a broken cv shaft, but anythings possible. i've never heard of a cv shaft breaking in two yet, not that i know of anyways, on these jeeps at least.

 

emdog, you actually have the nv247 that has a gerodisc instead of a viscous coupling, but it still works the same as the nv249.

You can find out more about your jeep by going to wjjeeps.com

If you REALLY want to get into it, you can buy a Full Service Manual for $7 at pacificcoastmanuals.com It's a downloadable 93mb compressed pdf file that's a copy of the factory service manual used by dealer service departments. It's year specific so you don't have to search for your particular application.

The way I understand this is the gerodisc is not a self contained unit like the viscous clutch that uses it's own fluid to disperse heat, but is an open unit that uses the special fluid in the entire t/case to cool it. Sort of a "better mousetrap!" It's cheaper to replace as well.