You can do an inframe rebuild by pulling the pistons and rods out, replace the main bearings, rear main seal, front crank seal, timing chain set, hone the cylinders, replace the rings and rod bearings while the head is off. About the only thing not done would be the cam and cam bearings, unless you feel like pulling the front of the Jeep off so you could pull the cam out.

 

Would it be necessary to do the cam? I mean if I do all that I might as well. But does it have to be done?

 

Not really, as long as none of the lobes are worn. Just make sure all of the lifters go back to the same postion.

 

I think "Busted" has it right. At 239K she's tired! Do a total rebuild, either to this engine or another used one. If you're getting oil in the air filter, you've got more blowby from the rings than the CCV can handle. If you pull the pistons to do the rings, you will probably be replacing the rod bearings. Why stop there? Pull it and do it right. You'll be happier in the long run.

Word of advise. Don't EVER put used lifters on a new cam!

 

That's what I plan on doing. If everything looks okay then I'm going to hone it and do everything but the cam. Hopefully it looks good so I don't have to. Thanks guys I'll update with the water vapor findings while I gather money to do the rebuild.

 

Ok so after this week and driving around for a lil bit just wasting gas to keep from shutting it off without being at operating temp for a lil bit. I checked my oil again and I'm starting to think its not water but sludge because it kinda has a texture to it and its almost solid almost like really really watered down peanut butter. Sorry for the analogy but that's the only way I can explain it.

The only part that gets me is my overflow coolant tank is now empty and it was full.

I still plan on doing a rebuild like I was taking about earlier. But the coolant usage has me stumped. Any insight would be awesome.

Also thanks everyone for the help last week.

 

Uh oh, you may be leaking coolant into the oil. Is the oil level raising?

 

Not that I could tell from last week but I'm going to keep an eye on it. Where could it get to the oil from besides a head gasket?

 

A cracked head or block could also allow coolant into the oil.

 

Awesome. How can I tell if I have the all glorious 0331 (I think that's it) head?

 

Also what are good compression numbers? I'm going to find the compression tester and test it tomorrow. To find out for sure what I'm dealing with.

 

The 0331 heads were only used on the late 99 -2001 model years. Good compression numbers would be around 150 and higher and they should all be within 10% of eachother.

 

Here's an idea. Pull the plugs out and crank it over, watching what comes out of the plug holes. If there's water in the cylinders, you should see it on the first couple if strokes. After that, you may see fuel.

You may also have a crack into a valve passage, which will not effect compression.

 

Well I found out that you should always check plugs and wires after getting a vehicle. I just assumed they were good since it was running alright when I got it. Well I went to do the compression test. I got 2 of the cylinders done but I stopped because I didn't wanna pull the rest of the spark plugs cuz I found them like this and all I had was 2 extras.

Needless to say I will be doing a complete tune up to it this week.

 

I've never seen plugs that bad in an engine that was still running. Replace the coil if you can afford it, the spark jumping that huge gap may have put a lot of stress on it.