Tim9368

I mean it is physically stuck. I am trying to replace it, but am unable to get the old one off. I was stripping the bolts (T20 screw.) So I broke the old one off and they two screws are still stuck in there. I am trying to use vice grip to work them out, but am concerned that I am going to break it off and then I'll be totally hosed. Anybody have a practical suggestion for me?

1998 GC 4.0 200k miles.

Thanks,

-tim

Tim9368

Some idiot put thread lock on the dang thing. I had to chip the old sensor off with a chisel and then use vice grips on the screws to make them come loose.

20 minute job took my whole flippin' afternoon.

Oh well...

dave1123

Next time try using Acetone (nail polish remover) on the threads. It dissolves Locktite and other locking compounds. That is, unless you've already tried it.

My brother snapped off the screws holding his distributor cap on, but that was because of corrosion, not Locktite. Steel and aluminum don't get along well, even when the steel is plated. Only for a certain length of time.

Even spark plugs lock up if they aren't changed often enough. In this case, PB Blaster seems to work if soaked long enough.

Bustedback

Sometimes you have to stop dicking around with trying to get broken screws out and end up destroying the part you're attempting to repair. The local pick a nose will have what you need in most cases. Work smarter, not harder.

TonyXJ

I too fought the good fight against these cursed TPS screws. I would compare removing these screws to Thor trying to pick up his hammer before he learned the importance of humility. And these screws will definitely humble you. The first thing I searched was "TPS stuck" which led me to this thread. Instead of starting a new forum I'll expand on this one. So for the next weary traveler down this dark road, I will post how I got my screws off.

Me: The entirety of my automotive experience/knowledge/equipment comes from owning an XJ for the past 7 years.
Vehicle: 1999 XJ with a 4.0 inline 6.
Symptoms: P0505 code and <400 rpm idle.
Right tool: I bought a new Duralast TPS and it came with T25 head screws, but the one on the Jeep originally has T20.

First thing I should have done was remove the air line that passes directly over the TPS, it was very brittle and mine is now broke in two places (to do list this afternoon: find out how to fix/replace the air line).


The screws looked a little rounded, but in actuality they were fine. After more hours and beers than I would like to admit, I gave up on trying to remove the screws with the throttle body still attached to the engine.



To remove the throttle body you have to unclip the three electrical sensors (TPS, IAC, and ??), remove air intake, disconnect the 3 cables (third is a tricky, look at pic), and 4 bolts.


Having the throttle body in hand did nothing to help remove the screws the traditional way. It does however allow you work in comfort (blizzard is hitting South Dakota today). Also, perfect opportunity to clean the throttle body and IAC youtube link:

The next step is the "no going back" point. Using a knife, drill, and pair of pliers, I completely demolished the old TPS.



All that remains of the TPS is the stuck screws and brass (maybe?) sleeves. The sleeves were then easily removed with a Dremel tool (drill and pliers could have worked too). I went too deep with the Dremel and almost cut through the screws, don't do that. Once the sleeve was gone, only the screws remained. I drenched them with PB blaster and let it soak overnight. I tried to drill directly into the head of the screw, but made no progress against the steel.
I then took a lighter (I don't have a torch) and heated the screws. After the screw was hot, I could turn it slightly clockwise (tighter) and then back counter-clockwise to where it started. I spent about 30 minutes heating the screws and then working them back and forth.


Eventually they turned left ever so slightly and then they were in the clear.


I do not wish this trouble on my worst enemy. Hope this saves someone a few brain bytes in the future, and I'll let you know once the Jeep thaws if this fixed the low idle problem.

ChrisCrash

I just got a CEL and the code was the TPS error. I went to replace my sensor and the damn bolts ruined two of my T20 bits!!

It looks like the only way to get this out is to demolish the original sensor since I already bought a new one.

Is there anything I should be looking out for in terms of rotation of the element when I remove it/install the new one? or just try to be as no intrusive as possible?