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sunk in the pond

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Old Feb 3, 2015 | 04:57 PM
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i have a 98 grand Cherokee 4wd i6 65,000 miles I sunk it in the pond (long story). I drained the oil and changed the filter and want to do the transmission but not sure what fluid to use. my wife's 03 2wd uses +4 I think its a little expensive just not sure what my 98 takes the same or not. also is there anything else I should check before I try to start it. it just happened night before last so I was giving it a few days to dry out.
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Old Feb 3, 2015 | 05:01 PM
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Pull all the spark plugs and crank it over to push any possible water out of the cylinders. "Drying it out" won't do anything if water is in the engine or transmission.
Also here is some advice. Cheap parts and fixes equal even more expensive parts and fixes.
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Old Feb 3, 2015 | 05:06 PM
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yea I was planning on looking at the plugs. I was just thinking that all the electrical needed a day or two to dry out. I will pull them tonight.
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Old Feb 3, 2015 | 06:11 PM
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Definitely pull the plugs then crank the motor over. Also you'll want to change the diff fluid.
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Old Feb 3, 2015 | 06:55 PM
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How deep was the water and did it sunk deep enough for water to enter the intake? Was the engine running when this happened? If water entered the cylinders while it was running, you could have internal damage to the pistons and rods. I'm not trying to scare you, just warn you about the possibilities of major damage. Water is not compressible and can stop pistons from turning, caving in their tops or bending connecting rods. At the very least, blowing head gaskets. Spin it over without the plugs in it to make sure it will spin without mechanical interference. Remove and change the air filter, wet paper will not pass air.

Don't forget to change the fluid in the transfer case as well. Do you have access to a warm garage? You've got to dry out the electrical wire harnesses and connectors. Depending on how long it was submerged, the fuel tank could have water in it as well. Today's systems are pretty well sealed, but it's still a possibility. Suck out the power steering pump and brake master cylinder and refill with fluid. The power steering may need a purge once you get it running. Also check the lights for water inside the lenses.

The transmission should be a 42re which uses ATF+4. You don't have to use Mopar ATF+4, but use another maker's equivalent product. The +4 has additives in it to enhance clutch engagement and extend the life of the transmission. If you have the 249 t/case (AWD), it takes special fluid. If you have Selectrac 242 with 2WD option, use ATF+4 as well.
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Old Feb 4, 2015 | 08:26 AM
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water was just over the head lights and to the bottom of the rear gate just a bit of rear bumper was showing. the front seats water was over the console top or the shifter was dry. I don't think It got over the intake. not sure if it was running kid says it wasn't but who knows. thanks for the advice and any other would be great. it will probably be Sunday before I get a chance to mess with it some more. worked late and didn't get to mess with it last night.
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Old Feb 4, 2015 | 10:30 AM
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One other thing I just thought of. The cat and muffler are full of water also. Sometimes jeeps don't like to fire up until they blow the restriction out. It may have drained enough so this isn't a problem. Just be ready for a bath behind it! (as in a garage)

I've got a story to tell about a Ford station wagon the went off a boat launching ramp. PM me and I'll tell you about it. It has to do with a dog.

Last edited by dave1123; Feb 4, 2015 at 10:33 AM.
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Old Feb 16, 2015 | 09:52 AM
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I got it running. seems to be doing good. was fine no ce light or anything for about two days then it came on and wouldn't idle. I cleaned the plug on the idle air motor and fixed that. light still on haven had a chance to take it and have codes pulled. I changed the transmission filter and the fluid that came out when it was off but not sure how to flush the rest out or do I just keep pulling the pan till it gets red. I haven't messed with a lot of auto transmissions been a few standards but they are a different animal.
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Old Feb 16, 2015 | 09:25 PM
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The trick is the torque converter holds more fluid than the pan. You can disconnect the cooler line from the radiator, start it up and pump that **** out. Shut it off when the fluid stops coming out, reconnect the line, change the filter again, and refill it. You'll have to put 5 quarts into the pan, start it to fill the converter, shut it off and refill the pan with 4 qts, start it and check/add until it's full.
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Old Feb 17, 2015 | 09:59 AM
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thanks that will save me a lot of time
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Old Feb 17, 2015 | 08:36 PM
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BTW, it has to be in neutral to pump the fluid.
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Old Feb 18, 2015 | 08:55 AM
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It really sounds like we need to hear this story😜
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Old Feb 19, 2015 | 05:27 AM
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Just an Irish setter bouncing around in the front seat knocked it out of park and the whole rig, boat, trailer and Ford went underwater. The dog survived because the owner couldn't bring himself to kill it.
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Old Feb 19, 2015 | 05:40 AM
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Originally Posted by dave1123
Just an Irish setter bouncing around in the front seat knocked it out of park and the whole rig, boat, trailer and Ford went underwater. The dog survived because the owner couldn't bring himself to kill it.
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Old Feb 22, 2015 | 03:07 PM
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I took the line loose and tried to pump the fluid out but it was slow. pumped a little better in drive or reverse. is it suppose to have more pressure or is that normal. I am asking because now its acting like it is low on fluid. it wont shift to third or od. it will pull for a min and then quit for a min then start pulling again like its low on fluid but it shows full. think the pump is messed up or could there be something stopped up. this developed after I tried pumping the fluid out. was doing ok.
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