Yeah, I just did this as we all know so ..But I say it's worth a shot for the cost of some sealant. If none, the water works its way out, so what's to stop it from going into the #1?? Also, this is not a typical place for a head to crack either, and there is only 1 cylinder involved, lending more to my theory. Waiting to hear what the OP Oldbaja has to say? The 100 ft lbs is from the FSM on that bolt. Actually more to it than that...bolts can only be reused once for starters, then there is 3 different torques...you work up to the last round where you take it to 100 lbs on that one only..others go to 110.

Well that's worth a shot, That could be the source of the water consumption. I should do some engine bay clean up anyway so while I'm in there I could remove the valve cover and reseal that one bolt.

The new fuel pump has fixed my slow start problem. The old one was not holding pressure in the fuel system, with the new one she fires right up.

No need to remove the vc. It's the first bolt on the right, as you look at the engine. You can see how it goes right down through to where the water jacket is.

Oh....10-4, very easy to get to, Right in front of my face. Now you think red lock-tite would be better over a thread sealant?

From the factory service manual: "Coat the threads of stud bolt No. 11 (I said 1, my bad, but it's still the first one on the right) with Loctite 592 sealant, or equivalent.
tightening sequence I am paraphrasing because you are only doing one bolt. By the way if the bolts have white paint on them don't re use them it means they were used twice already....
tighten to 22 ft lbs
tighten to 45 ft lbs
check to veriify (I gave mine a half hour, it needed a little more to get to 45 then) that it is set to 45 ft lbs
Tighten to 100 (for this bolt 11 only) ft lbs. (others go to 110).

Today's Mileage 207432
Hay, just pulled the Jeep ZJ into the garage and I'm going to change the dist cap, plug wires and spark plugs. The last time the oil was changed someone said they could see a spark jump across the plug wires, so today we change them out.
Hoping for just a smoother idle and less missies.

Today's Mileage 207435
Well changed out all parts above and I like what I hear and feel. just seems to run a little smoother.
That makes for a good Sunday. Now time for a frosty cold Coors light !

97 Grand, Love the idea, I'm looking and I think the bolt that you are talking about is a stud, I don't see how I cold get any sealant on it without removing the head?

Huh? It's a head bolt. Hard to miss it. You don’t take the head off and you don’t even need to take the valve cover off.

From the factory service manual: "Coat the threads of stud bolt No. 11 ?

That's what they are calling the head bolt, yes. google it

From the exterior it looks like a full length stud with a nut holding down against the head, but its a regular bolt with a stud on top of it, go figure.

right. the fsm differentiates, there are actually 3 different styles or whatever you want to call them. So I take it you took it out and coated it. remember the torque sequence above.

Not yet, but I will and yes I'll torque in the proper sequence to spec. We agree it's worth a shot.