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~*~ Please help with an 02 Overlander Electrical issues ~*~

Old Apr 30, 2014 | 09:39 AM
  #31  
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From: Park Ridge. Chicago, Illinois
Year: 2002
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Amazing find knowing you FishBone! Your umbelieveable
You are the Best!

Thank you so much brotha for posting those videos. Now I see what the problem is...

Wires pulling but brackets are busted on those vent doors. Wow! And its a common problem. Poor design ha?

Taking the entire dash apart is out of the question for me anyways. I don't have that ability FBone, I'd end up not being able to figure out whats what and how everything goes back where it belongs ...


I'm very grateful Sir. No doubt the going through the glove box is the way to go. That I'm feeling fairly good about and will probably try and tackle that project as soon as the weather warms a bit.

You're 100% right there are so many other distractions now that I'm single again.
It's tough finding the time to concentrate on this noise repair when there are so many other matters that need to be addressed.

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Lol hahahaha. I'll have to wait a little longer and do that in the driveway where I can see what's going on and the weather warms a bit more. That way if it takes me a little longer than a few days and need be I can still use the vert to get around.

Again thank you FishBone. You Rock!

Brotha!


PeterB.

PS. I got another one to run past you on the tire sensors reading on the overhead monitor. I'll post it up a little later. Enjoy your day.



Last edited by PeterB; Apr 30, 2014 at 10:41 PM.
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Old Apr 30, 2014 | 05:20 PM
  #32  
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Year: 2002
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Engine: 4.0
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These are common problems in Chevy's, Fords, Nissans, Toyotas, Kia's.....etc. All depends upon the model and year. I guess it's manufacturers way of saving some $$$. Using plastic drive pieces on motors that should be metal, using plastic position stops that should be metal you get the idea. it's not just a Jeep or Chrysler problem.
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Old Apr 30, 2014 | 10:02 PM
  #33  
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Before you do much else, clean out the dielectric grease. It's an insulator, not a conductor, and it can cause trouble with signal strength...

If it's a proper "environmentally sealed" connector, then contaminant intrusion shouldn't be a worry. Clean the crap out, and start over.

Individual terminals may be removed and cleaned using a common pencil eraser - mildly abrasive process, but not so much as to remove material (base material or tin plating.) Cheap toothpaste may be used to give extra cleaning effort on particularly bad spots.

It may come down to checking voltage levels, point-to-point, to find a wiring flaw. This takes time, a DMM, and backprobe pins (may be made from stiff steel wire - cut a few lengths of wire about 0.30-0.45" diameter, and file/grind the ends round. Quilter's pins may also be used, with the points ground round.) A significant drop from one point to another in the line has isolated the segment where the fault is located.

This is why electrical diagnosis costs so damned much. I once had a floating ground in the fuel injector harness in my 1987XJ - took me 18 hours to find it, and only 30 minutes to fix it...
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Old Apr 30, 2014 | 10:17 PM
  #34  
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Thank you 5-90 words of wisdom and experience are greatly appreciated.

Yes I see how time consuming it can be.

Btw my apologies I'm not a tech, the dialectric grease on the vent wires or battery terminals ? Please clarify?


Thank you for taking the time to post it sir. Enjoy your evening.


-

Last edited by PeterB; Apr 30, 2014 at 10:21 PM.
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