Parasitic draw, WJ -- please help!
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Year: 1991
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Parasitic draw, WJ -- please help!
3 times in the past month, when I've gone out to start my '04 WJ, the battery has been dead after sitting for a day or two. Most of the time, it does not happen, though -- the Jeep can sit for 4-5 days and start up fine most of the time. I had the battery tested twice (once at an O'Reilly, once at my local mechanic). The local mechanic had it in the shop once after this happened, and found no parasitic draw. He also said he checked the alternator and it checked out fine. So it seems to be an intermittent issue.
It was dead again this morning, and when I hook up the multimeter between the negative cable and the negative terminal, it is showing something like 11.4 A. I unhooked the alternator (big cable on top), and it didn't change the draw. I also pulled out the connections that were there for an old XM satellite receiver, and also unhooked a trailer brake controller, thinking these were the most likely culprits. This one does not have the optional amp, which I've heard can cause problems sometime. I have been working my way through the fuses, pulling one at a time, but this is a tedious process because each time I go in the vehicle to unplug a fuse, I think (?) I have to wait awhile for the door indicator to go off.
I am a little confused, because there is not enough power for the dome lights to even come on -- is it normal to be reading over 11A if the battery is that weak? What could be drawing that much current? Am I testing this correctly, or am I doing something wrong? Does the battery have to be charged fully before I can do this test?
Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated.
It was dead again this morning, and when I hook up the multimeter between the negative cable and the negative terminal, it is showing something like 11.4 A. I unhooked the alternator (big cable on top), and it didn't change the draw. I also pulled out the connections that were there for an old XM satellite receiver, and also unhooked a trailer brake controller, thinking these were the most likely culprits. This one does not have the optional amp, which I've heard can cause problems sometime. I have been working my way through the fuses, pulling one at a time, but this is a tedious process because each time I go in the vehicle to unplug a fuse, I think (?) I have to wait awhile for the door indicator to go off.
I am a little confused, because there is not enough power for the dome lights to even come on -- is it normal to be reading over 11A if the battery is that weak? What could be drawing that much current? Am I testing this correctly, or am I doing something wrong? Does the battery have to be charged fully before I can do this test?
Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated.
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One possible hint... The power door locks don't seem to work when I try hitting them on the door. They don't lock (or unlock) all doors, in other words. I always have to lock the doors using the key fob. I read on another forum where sometimes there is something screwy between the BCM and power door locks that causes a drain. Grasping at straws, really.
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A little more... After the first two times the battery was dead in the morning, I started checking the dome lights obsessively to be sure they went off after I got out and locked the vehicle. Then I sort of assumed I had just done something dumb like left the interior light switch in the "on" position the first few times, because it didn't happen for about 3 weeks. Did it again this morning, and now after charging the battery, restarting, etc., I notice that the interior lights are staying on after shutting off the vehicle, and opening and closing the door.
They go off as soon as you get back in and put the key in the ignition, like they should, but seem not to be going off on their own after the door is closed. Any ideas where the problem might be?
They go off as soon as you get back in and put the key in the ignition, like they should, but seem not to be going off on their own after the door is closed. Any ideas where the problem might be?
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So I think I have a candidate for the problem. Two wires have issues in the boot between the drivers door and the vehicle. One is black (I think -- lighting was bad) and is completely severed. The other is orange with white tracer (I think, but will have to look again), and the insulation is cracked. Looks like kind of a pain to repair.
I'm wondering whether there was a short that was drawing current, or if it was just leaving the lights on sometimes since the door switch wasn't showing it as closed. But, I thought the lights are supposed to go off after 8 min. either way, as a battery protection...? Need to test that specifically, but kind of want to unhook the battery until I fix those broken wires.
I'm wondering whether there was a short that was drawing current, or if it was just leaving the lights on sometimes since the door switch wasn't showing it as closed. But, I thought the lights are supposed to go off after 8 min. either way, as a battery protection...? Need to test that specifically, but kind of want to unhook the battery until I fix those broken wires.
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