just bought a laredo and now trans prob???
#31
lololol is that the technical term for parts sales at Southern Connecticut Freightliner
You just got caught in a bull**** lie.
You just got caught in a bull**** lie.
Last edited by Quezzy; 07-06-2011 at 03:36 AM.
#32
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Um, no that would be how I spent my last 3 years, as the manager of city automatic transmission service. I left to get out of the auto business to avoid more ignorant people such as your self. I took the performance business we had and renamed it under my personal business registration through the state of Connecticut which I still own and run from home.
If you stalked my page some more you would have seen my Facebook page for my business. Danny Mac Racing Transmissions. Which is again, the transmission rebuilding business I still own and operate. While I work for Southern Ct Freightliner.
Good thing you spent all that time to catch me in a lie, boy you would have looked stupid if you were wrong.......
Again...
If you stalked my page some more you would have seen my Facebook page for my business. Danny Mac Racing Transmissions. Which is again, the transmission rebuilding business I still own and operate. While I work for Southern Ct Freightliner.
Good thing you spent all that time to catch me in a lie, boy you would have looked stupid if you were wrong.......
Again...
#33
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Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
http://www.atra.com/ I'm ATRA certified, have been for 16 years but never done anything with it. I've only rebuilt one transmission outside of school, that was an old Torqueflite 727 out of my Charger
Last edited by Bustedback; 07-06-2011 at 08:37 AM.
#36
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Year: 1996 grand 2001 grand
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
well i have been looking at this post and wondering if i should post anymore or if i would get another bicker match started i still would like to have some good advice the jeep is a grand cher. loredo 1996 with a 4.0 and a 42re transmission with 3.73 gears and i just got it a couple of months ago and haven't done much with it because i wasn't sure what to do with the tranny jerking like it is i explained it before about it the fluid seems red not burnt no burnt smells either i see no need to change filter if fluid is pretty red also i didn't see any way in adjusting the tv cable or do i have to go under the jeep to find it on the tranny please don't take this the wrong way but i need help not a bickering match so again please any help would be great thanks
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Year: 1995
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Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
Pm ct67 72, he knows his stuff and he won't start a pissing contest. This is a great forum for info and tips, but there are a few people that feel the need to spoil the fun and offer up bad advise.
Does your transmission jerk all of the time or only under full throttle? Mine jerked pretty bad when I was at full throttle, like when I'm passing somebody. I adjusted the TV cable and the problem was solved.
Does your transmission jerk all of the time or only under full throttle? Mine jerked pretty bad when I was at full throttle, like when I'm passing somebody. I adjusted the TV cable and the problem was solved.
Last edited by Bustedback; 07-11-2011 at 10:19 PM.
#38
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Yes, no need to start an argument. This is a great forum with some great advise, and very knowledgeable people. Some just tend to make it a little difficult to get that info through. Feel free to PM me. and as stated above a little more info would surely help.
Not knowing the exact details of your problem, Im going to say this but under your discretion if you feel it can handle it.
Make a full throttle run and let the trans shift 1-2-3, keep an eye on the rpm that it shifts at.
How long have you owned it? and if you have had it for more than 6 months or so, have you ever serviced the transmission?
If you acquired it recently it may have very well been serviced before you bought it.
Not knowing the exact details of your problem, Im going to say this but under your discretion if you feel it can handle it.
Make a full throttle run and let the trans shift 1-2-3, keep an eye on the rpm that it shifts at.
How long have you owned it? and if you have had it for more than 6 months or so, have you ever serviced the transmission?
If you acquired it recently it may have very well been serviced before you bought it.
#39
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Year: 1996 grand 2001 grand
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i have owned the jeep for about two months but only drove it in total around 5 miles be cause of the shifting. I have not had it full throttle it would prob. give me whiplash the jeep has had some servicing but don't know of what kind. the tranny fluid does look like it has been changed but thats all that i can see as far as shifting it feels like the rpms are going a bit hi before shifting like it don't want to shift at all ,but when it does it kicks pretty hard . it don't seem to be slipping because it goes in so hard and when you goose it don't seem to have the slack or rpm sound , like its slipping. I haven't done anything to it because i don't want to just throw money at it because i don't have any.i looked at the top of the throttle body and there are three cables going to it. one is throttle, the other is tranny shift down lookes like and the other is cruise as far as i can tell the only one with a adjustment is cruise is there a tv cable adjustment on a 96 4.0L with a 42re trans??? or do you think it is the tv cable??
#40
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Yest here is an adjustment, hopefully someone can chime in with specifics, Im not positive on that year, I know the newer ones have a plastic clip that you have to release to adjust it, but again not sure on that year.
It does sound like the cable adjust ment though. You shoul dbe able to search and find it here, or google.
ADJUSTMENT VERIFICATION
(1) Turn ignition key to OFF position.
(2) Remove air cleaner.
(3) Verify that lever on throttle body (Fig. 241) is
at curb idle position. Then verify that the transmission
throttle lever (Fig. 242) is also at idle (fully forward)
position.
(4) Slide cable off attachment stud on throttle body
lever.
(5) Compare position of cable end to attachment
stud on throttle body lever:
² Cable end and attachment stud should be
aligned (or centered on one another) to within 1 mm
(0.039 in.) in either direction (Fig. 243).
² If cable end and attachment stud are misaligned
(off center), cable will have to be adjusted as
described in Throttle Valve Cable Adjustment procedure.
(6) Reconnect cable end to attachment stud. Then
with aid of a helper, observe movement of transmission
throttle lever and lever on throttle body.
² If both levers move simultaneously from idle to
half-throttle and back to idle position, adjustment is
correct.
² If transmission throttle lever moves ahead of, or
lags behind throttle body lever, cable adjustment will
be necessary. Or, if throttle body lever prevents
transmission lever from returning to closed position,
cable adjustment will be necessary.
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE
(1) Turn ignition switch to OFF position.
(2) Remove air cleaner if necessary.
(3) Disconnect cable end from attachment stud.
Carefully slide cable off stud. Do not pry or pull
cable off.
(4) Verify that transmission throttle lever is in
fully closed position. Then be sure lever on throttle
body is at curb idle position.
(5) Pry the T.V. cable lock (A) into the UP position
(Fig. 243). This will unlock the cable and allow for
readjustment.
(6) Apply just enough tension on the T.V. cable (B)
to remove any slack in the cable.Pulling too tight
will cause the T.V. lever on the transmission to
move out of its idle position, which will result
in an incorrect T.V. cable adjustment. Slide the
sheath of the T.V. cable (D) back and forth until the
centerlines of the T.V. cable end (B) and the throttle
bell crank lever (C) are aligned within one millimeter
(1mm) (Fig. 243).
(7) While holding the T.V. cable in the set position
push the T.V. cable lock (A) into the down position
It does sound like the cable adjust ment though. You shoul dbe able to search and find it here, or google.
ADJUSTMENT VERIFICATION
(1) Turn ignition key to OFF position.
(2) Remove air cleaner.
(3) Verify that lever on throttle body (Fig. 241) is
at curb idle position. Then verify that the transmission
throttle lever (Fig. 242) is also at idle (fully forward)
position.
(4) Slide cable off attachment stud on throttle body
lever.
(5) Compare position of cable end to attachment
stud on throttle body lever:
² Cable end and attachment stud should be
aligned (or centered on one another) to within 1 mm
(0.039 in.) in either direction (Fig. 243).
² If cable end and attachment stud are misaligned
(off center), cable will have to be adjusted as
described in Throttle Valve Cable Adjustment procedure.
(6) Reconnect cable end to attachment stud. Then
with aid of a helper, observe movement of transmission
throttle lever and lever on throttle body.
² If both levers move simultaneously from idle to
half-throttle and back to idle position, adjustment is
correct.
² If transmission throttle lever moves ahead of, or
lags behind throttle body lever, cable adjustment will
be necessary. Or, if throttle body lever prevents
transmission lever from returning to closed position,
cable adjustment will be necessary.
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE
(1) Turn ignition switch to OFF position.
(2) Remove air cleaner if necessary.
(3) Disconnect cable end from attachment stud.
Carefully slide cable off stud. Do not pry or pull
cable off.
(4) Verify that transmission throttle lever is in
fully closed position. Then be sure lever on throttle
body is at curb idle position.
(5) Pry the T.V. cable lock (A) into the UP position
(Fig. 243). This will unlock the cable and allow for
readjustment.
(6) Apply just enough tension on the T.V. cable (B)
to remove any slack in the cable.Pulling too tight
will cause the T.V. lever on the transmission to
move out of its idle position, which will result
in an incorrect T.V. cable adjustment. Slide the
sheath of the T.V. cable (D) back and forth until the
centerlines of the T.V. cable end (B) and the throttle
bell crank lever (C) are aligned within one millimeter
(1mm) (Fig. 243).
(7) While holding the T.V. cable in the set position
push the T.V. cable lock (A) into the down position
#41
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#43
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Ok its been awhile and i have tried the tv cable adjustment but i don't think its that i got the trans to shift pretty good but i noticed that when going out of first into second it seems to not connect properly and lets the rpm's go high for about 2 seconds then it connects and everything seems to bee ok then. I also noticed that it seems kinda noisy on take off. nothing grinding but just loud,checked fluid seems fine.I don't think its slipping but seems like doesn't wanna shift but when does only gives problem from first to second also when i stomp on the brake seems like the trans don't wanna let go and jeep almost quits then after a second or two its idles fine. Any ideas
#44
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Sounds like you backed off the cable too much. Now you have low line pressure and it causes the "flair" or rpm increase inbetween shifts.
1-2 is usually the worst because its only. Band applying, not a whole set of clutches.
If its been this long you may want to find someone with aittle more knowledge to help you get it adjusted
The easiest way is to make full throttle shifts. It should shift .just under redline. I imagine if you try now your probably 5-700 rpm low. Bring the cable out a notch or two until it shifts where its supposed to at full throttle.
1-2 is usually the worst because its only. Band applying, not a whole set of clutches.
If its been this long you may want to find someone with aittle more knowledge to help you get it adjusted
The easiest way is to make full throttle shifts. It should shift .just under redline. I imagine if you try now your probably 5-700 rpm low. Bring the cable out a notch or two until it shifts where its supposed to at full throttle.
#45
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Oh if it shifts where it should rpm wise and you still have that flair, the tv valve in the valve body is most likely worn and you may need a valve body but it doesn't really sound that way so.far