Carpenter Mark

In my quest to replace worn out parts on my 2000 GC, (4L, Select Trac) I've replaced the tie rod ends and steering damper , new rotors and brakes to take care of the death wobble and brake shudder, worked fine. While under there, I checked the wheel bearings, axel boots and ball joints , all were worn and I decided to do everything at once. Ordered the parts from NAPA, put them in the back of the car a couple of weeks ago till I had time.
Today was the day, started the tear down and opened the ball joints for the first time and found the lower ball joints supplied are "Jeep Adjustable Ball Joints". They have an off set stud, and according the the instructions, you have to press them in either toward or away from the wheel depending whether you need poitive or negative camber- which I don't know. Then you re-assemble the wheel and turn the stud for the camber needed, them tighten the nut down.
This kind of alignment is beyond my experience and capabilitys in my driveway.
Has any one here used these ball joints? Should I take them back and get the fixed stock ones?

Carpenter Mark

Sorry, wrong forum
Doesn't matter , went and ordered non adjustables as I have no idea where the camber is at this point, as I have it torn apart. If its very bad, I'll have to eat the n.a.'s and re-install something else

wingless

Good luck.

My tool set includes caster / camber and toe measurement tools that I perform on a level spot in my driveway. It is very handy to perform these measurements as a DIY. It is not difficult.

When I swap out my notched knuckles I will install adjustable upper and lower ball joints to bring my alignment on my bone stock Up Country ZJ in as good as possible, as-shown in this reply.

dave1123

You don't need adjustable ball joints unless you have a high enough lift to change the caster so it's out of limits and causes wobble. Camber is designed in at the factory by the axle housing horns being bored at the right angle. Toe in is about all you can adjust.

Adjustable ball joints are made in 1/2 degree steps from 1/2* to 1 1/2* and have to be installed in the position to change whatever you need; that is, if you need more caster, they need to be pressed in fore&aft to change that. If you need more (or less) camber, they need to be pressed in across the car to change that. Once they are pressed in, they are not adjustable.

Your built in caster is 7* and when you install a lift, the pinion angle will change causing less caster and making the vehicle more susceptible to wobble. This is usually cured by adjustable lower control arms.

In my opinion, use standard service parts made by a reputable manufacturer like Moog or Timkin, etc, and you should be good, Unless you are installing a 4" or higher lift.