So I think I may have figured this out finally. I've wrapped the fuel injectors and fuel rail in heat shield tape and it seems to be starting smoother so far. It's only been 3 days but so far so good. I will report back if it doesn't hold up.

 

On the '02, the fuel pressure regulator is part of the fuel filter. That's why there are 3 lines on it. The overpressure goes back to tank.

Just for ***** and giggles, try parking the other way around and see if it makes a difference. I doubt the sun has anything to do with it, but the angle of the driveway may.

You may also have a leaking injector. Check your "holding" fuel pressure. It should hold pressure for at least 5 minutes after shutdown.

 

Sorry, I posted that last before reading page 2!

My '00 WJ does the same thing, but it's totally random with no pattern to it. Most of the time it fires up before the starter turns the engine a complete revolution. Once in a while, it takes about 1 to 2 seconds to start. I'm thinking about changing the spark plugs because it's got 158K on it without any records of the previous owner ever changing them. The thing is, it never misfires and never fails to start, even at 15* below zero. Although when it's that cold, I turn the key on and give it a couple of seconds to preheat the PCM before I crank it.

 

Try what I did. I took the old beat up shield off the manifold, and double triple wrapped the injectors, rail and line that comes off it to the fire wall. You can get the tape at parts store or hot rod shop. I think even though we are not getting Vapor lock, we are still getting vapor. Mine seems cleared up. Also changed my oil pressure sender but don't think that was related. Mine didn't have a pattern either like I thought. Only started fine when warmed up which I think cuz vapor was pushed out.

 

I changed spark plugs, cam, crank sensors, fuel pump and filter, cleaned throttle body and IAC valve, all to no avail. But I think the tape has worked.

 

I even wrapped mine in place, just took off the air box and throttle cable bracket, al though you might do better if you do take off the rail. And I just put the tape every where I could with out obstructing future removability, so you don't have to cover every spec of the assembly.

 

Well so much for that......It just did it again, went to start it and it sputtered, then cranked it again, it sputtered a little but started. I still think it's related to the fuel rail getting too hot though, I did a lot of idling earlier, which obviously gets the engine hotter. I've heard there's a module you can get to keep the fan running after you shut off your vehicle. What ever

 

It's possible the fuel is boiling in the rail after the pressure dies. As I said before, check your "holding" pressure. One or more of your injectors may be weeping a little after shutdown. I can't seem to find the specs, but the pressure should be holding for at least 5 minutes. If it isn't, the cylinders may be flooded with too much fuel for a clean start. This would also create a rich mixture when you pressurize them by turning the key on and waiting before cranking.

Do you smell wood burning? That's just my brain working.

 

I did the test where you pull the rail with injectors attached, turn the key to On and check for leaks, I didn't see any. Also it always starts good if It's only sat for a half hour or less. It's when its sat for an hour or more that it stumbles. I think the excessive idling was more than the heat tape could handle yesterday, but I don't know at this point. I'd like to install some hood vents but I don't think that will happen any time soon.

 

Just an idea. When I used to drag race, we had lots of trouble with overheating in the staging lanes. One trick that seemed to help a lot was to put spacers in the hood hinges to raise the rear edge of the hood about 3/4 inch. The only problem was any fluid that the engine leaked wound up on the windshield. My buddy blew a plastic oil pressure line to his mechanical guage in the middle of a run and almost ran off the track! Try it before you go cutting any sheetmetal. Another trick is to vent the wheelwells, although I'm not sure how that would work with Unibody. You might try an aluminum heat shield over the top of the intake to keep exhaust heat away from the injectors. They are VERY close to the exhaust ports.

 

Yeah I don't know how putting the fuel rail above the exhaust manifold passed the design phase. I've heard that clipping clothes pins to the fuel rail also works. Wish I would of been more in tune with this problem when I did my manifolds gasket, I could of tried to wrap the manifolds with header wrap maybe.

 

Did you happen to notice the intake and exhaust ports are side-by-side and on the same level? It's very hard to keep heat away from the injectors. At least on a V8, they're on opposite sides of the heads. Maybe you could cover the rail itself with fiberglass pipe insulation, you know, the long split tubes. Just cut notches where the injectors fit into the rail. And the brackets.

 

So I was about to install hood louvers then some one gave me another idea. I ended up taking a 1" hole saw and drilled holes in the hood frame and the back of the hood so it can vent itself. I know the left side where the insulation fell off looks crappy but whatever. Maybe this will help a little, maybe not. Probably would of been more effective to just use spacers and raise the back of the hood. Got a wild hair I guess, lol.

 

IDK if this will make any difference or not, but every vehicle I've owned that had a insulation blanket under the hood, I've removed it. I can't see any need for them except possibly to keep the engine warmer after shutdown or to keep snow from sticking to the hood. Both of those shouldn't be of any concern to you. From your pics, it looks like yours is sprayed on. My '00 had a blanket.

 

No its tacked on with plastic clips. I think the insulation is to protect to hood from becoming oxidized but I could be wrong.