Ignition Kills Battery
#1
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Model: Cherokee
Ignition Kills Battery
Just bought my first jeep.
99 Cherokee hope to keep it forever. I got all your problems plus one. When I turn myjeep OFF the battery dies. Think I heard a click before it happened.
Can pull key out of ignition while jeep is running. Suspect actuator or ignition switch. HELP... MY BABY!!!
99 Cherokee hope to keep it forever. I got all your problems plus one. When I turn myjeep OFF the battery dies. Think I heard a click before it happened.
Can pull key out of ignition while jeep is running. Suspect actuator or ignition switch. HELP... MY BABY!!!
#2
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Join Date: Apr 2016
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Model: Cherokee
Just bought my first jeep.
99 Cherokee hope to keep it forever. I got all your problems plus one. When I turn myjeep OFF the battery dies. Think I heard a click before it happened.
Can pull key out of ignition while jeep is running. Suspect actuator or ignition switch. HELP... MY BABY!!!
99 Cherokee hope to keep it forever. I got all your problems plus one. When I turn myjeep OFF the battery dies. Think I heard a click before it happened.
Can pull key out of ignition while jeep is running. Suspect actuator or ignition switch. HELP... MY BABY!!!
#3
Old fart with a wrench
Welcome to CF!
You should start by pulling the battery out, getting it charged and load tested. If it's okay, put it back in, watching for a spark on one of the battery cables when you connect it up. If you get a spark, you have a parasitic draw somewhere in the circuit. The Ignition Off Draw should be only 5 to 25 milliamps with all the modules powered down and timed out. If you get a visible spark, connect a multimeter set on amps between the positive cable end and the battery post. Start pulling fuses and watch if the draw reduces. Whichever fuse drops the draw is your source of the problem.
With electrical problems, you have to start with the basics, otherwise you're spinning your wheels.
You should start by pulling the battery out, getting it charged and load tested. If it's okay, put it back in, watching for a spark on one of the battery cables when you connect it up. If you get a spark, you have a parasitic draw somewhere in the circuit. The Ignition Off Draw should be only 5 to 25 milliamps with all the modules powered down and timed out. If you get a visible spark, connect a multimeter set on amps between the positive cable end and the battery post. Start pulling fuses and watch if the draw reduces. Whichever fuse drops the draw is your source of the problem.
With electrical problems, you have to start with the basics, otherwise you're spinning your wheels.
#4
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Welcome to CF!
You should start by pulling the battery out, getting it charged and load tested. If it's okay, put it back in, watching for a spark on one of the battery cables when you connect it up. If you get a spark, you have a parasitic draw somewhere in the circuit. The Ignition Off Draw should be only 5 to 25 milliamps with all the modules powered down and timed out. If you get a visible spark, connect a multimeter set on amps between the positive cable end and the battery post. Start pulling fuses and watch if the draw reduces. Whichever fuse drops the draw is your source of the problem.
With electrical problems, you have to start with the basics, otherwise you're spinning your wheels.
You should start by pulling the battery out, getting it charged and load tested. If it's okay, put it back in, watching for a spark on one of the battery cables when you connect it up. If you get a spark, you have a parasitic draw somewhere in the circuit. The Ignition Off Draw should be only 5 to 25 milliamps with all the modules powered down and timed out. If you get a visible spark, connect a multimeter set on amps between the positive cable end and the battery post. Start pulling fuses and watch if the draw reduces. Whichever fuse drops the draw is your source of the problem.
With electrical problems, you have to start with the basics, otherwise you're spinning your wheels.
#5
Old fart with a wrench
Since you replaced the ignition tumbler and switch, You may have to reprogram the SKIM module. The "Security Key Identification Module" has to recognize the key as being valid before the engine will stay running. In each key, there is a transponder chip that transmits a code when "quizzed" by the SKIM and that code must be stored in the SKIM. On the gauge panel, there is a symbol of a key with a circle and slash thru it. If that appears, the SKIM doesn't recognize the key. What happens then is the engine will start, but die as soon as you release the key. I'm not sure, but it may not even crank.
If that doesn't happen and the engine stays running, The PCM will check system voltage and if it's low, will bring the alternator online to recharge the battery, or if that doesn't work, tell the ASD relay to drop out causing the ignition and fuel injection systems to shut down.
If it runs fine until you shut it off, the problem is elsewhere.
BTW, DO NOT turn on anything with a large load like the headlights with the multimeter connected. It with blow the fuse in the meter. Also, when doing the parasitic draw test, make sure there is nothing on, like the courtesy lights, underhood light, and give the modules time to shut down. The only things that will remain powered up are the PCM memory, the radio preset memory, and the remote keyless entry receiver. (RKE)
If that doesn't happen and the engine stays running, The PCM will check system voltage and if it's low, will bring the alternator online to recharge the battery, or if that doesn't work, tell the ASD relay to drop out causing the ignition and fuel injection systems to shut down.
If it runs fine until you shut it off, the problem is elsewhere.
BTW, DO NOT turn on anything with a large load like the headlights with the multimeter connected. It with blow the fuse in the meter. Also, when doing the parasitic draw test, make sure there is nothing on, like the courtesy lights, underhood light, and give the modules time to shut down. The only things that will remain powered up are the PCM memory, the radio preset memory, and the remote keyless entry receiver. (RKE)
Last edited by dave1123; 04-18-2016 at 01:57 AM.
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