So 39/11=~3.55, if I did that right. Pretty sure you have 3.55 gear ratios. Can someone confirm?

 

I firmly believe that's correct.

Just something to ponder. In my experience and training with industrial machine drive systems which run at basically a constant load, the smallest pinion you want to run is a 10 tooth because anything smaller puts too much load on the bearings. Now you see why in a Dana 30 or 35 axle, the pinion bearings don't last too long. They're only 11 tooth.

 

So i found a front axle and im praying its all gonna work. The # on the diff matches mine. The one we found had no cv axle and since my old one was siezed we pieced a new one together but i have no clue if they are good. Im not sure about interchanability. they did turn the yoke on the diff. We paid a lot more than i expected but less than new for sure. After my bf hassled for almost an hour with one of the driveshaft bolts that ended up stripping we had to pound the ujoint out and get it off that way leaving part of the yoke on the transfer case end. And after that we go get a cv axle from another jeep and look down and son of a b*** if there isnt a good driveshaft laying right there uggghh!! Well no harm i just bought them both! Cant hurt to have spares that driveshaft went to a jeep with i think a 3.7 rear diff so idk if that matters? I will post up pics later. Heres what i look like at the end of the day lol. Im beat as hell but happy as hell too!! Cant wait to get my jeep on the road!!!!

 

I like that kind of makeup!

 

I like ANY woman who is willing to get down and dirty with a wrench in her hand! Make us proud, girl!

 

Thanks guys. So I have a question about the gear oil. It seems 75/90 is what most ppl are using. I dont need a synthetic right? What about using an 80/90? a gallon of valvoline is 23 bucks at oreilly. My jeep will just be a daily driver a while until I can afford all my mods Thanks

 

No you don't need synthetic unless you'll be towing at highway speeds. Standard GL5 (80/90) is fine. If you ARE going to tow, I suggest 75/140 Syn. It has a friction modifier in it to help make it "slick."

BTW, from the pics, the gear wear pattern of the rear diff looks good. It's obviously got miles on it, but the tooth contact is smooth and not scored.

 

Thanks dave. Tge rear diff is in good shape. I didnt find any metal at all and the oil was dirty but i didnt see metallic residue at all. I know the previous owners towed atvs with it and given the state of the front diff i was rather suprised.

 

I hate to bring this up, but you've got the 249 t/case, right? 4hi,N,4lo? You may have a problem with the viscous clutch being that it was driven a long time without the front shaft. If you've got the 242 (2wd,4pt,4ft,N,4lo) not to worry.

 

edit

 

I do have 4hi/n/4lo. Lets pray its ok. I dont know how long it was driven like that so i guess when i get it together i'll find out.

 

If you do have a problem with it, we can guide you thru a repair or a swap to another t/case. Just for education, check out http://jeepforum.com/forum/f13/trans...-np242-685644/

 

I got a box of stuff from quadratec today. I ordered inner axle seals and the oil pinon slinger. I bought these because I was thinking i was only going to get a new differential but then i went ahead with the whole axle. So I should take the extra steps and just change them but I'm leaning towards not wanting to In any case one thing Im not sure how to do is when im installing the driveshaft onto the new axle. I have read your suppose to mark it before taking it off at the front yoke and also the transfer case. Im starting from "scratch" so how do I make sure its getting installed right? Did that make sense? And how can I tell if the cv joints are bad? I pulled mine from two diff jeeps at the scrap yard.

Thanks guys!

 

To be honest, if you have a spare diff sitting outside of the vehicle - replacing parts tends to be much easier and less stressful. Take an hour or two every evening and you should have it finished in no time.

It's hard to see the rest of the axle in the photos, but if it is grungy definately clean it thoroughly just out of best practices. Shoot some rustoleum glossy black over everything and it will look like new (well...not everything but you get the idea). Oil pinion slinger might not be necessary but I would do the axle seals so you can clean out the inner shafts at the same time.

True story

 

Okay, here we go! My opinions only! From your photos, the axle has outboard CV joints at the wheels, but not on the driveshaft. The driveshaft has double and single cardon u-joints. The double one goes toward the t/case and the single mounts to the differential.

As long as the inner axle seals aren't leaking now, I wouldn't change them. They are a real B!TCH to change! They mount just outside of the carrier bearings and the whole center section has to come out to replace them. I would replace all the u-joints on the driveshaft, however. Once the axle is mounted, you can decide which one to use based on length. With the jeep resting on the ground, you should have enough length of the splined section left to compress it enough to just clear the diff yoke. Marking the u-joints when taking the shaft out is just to insure it's in balance so it won't cause vibration. If it vibrates after you assemble yours, you can just rotate each u-joint (one at a time) to see if it makes a difference. Also, check for wear in the splined section by trying to bend it there.

I WOULD NOT touch the pinion! It's not leaking now, so don't mess with it! I had a transmission shop who was doing my trans rebuild replace a leaking pinion seal. They overtorqued the bearings resulting in my rear diff exploding a day later! They SAID they knew what they were doing. They installed a new ring&pinion set and didn't even do THAT right!

As far as painting it is concerned, Rustoleum is good, but brush it on. The spray doesn't last long unless you soak it enough to run.

Just to bring us up to speed, your jeep isn't lifted, correct?