8 volts is too high...repair manual is incorrect. All the engine control sensors are supplied with a 5 volt reference and feedback a 0.2v to 4.8v signal. I f you have more than 5.2v anywhere in the system you need to unplug every sensor and verify the voltage as you reconnect.
Unplug the o2 sensors, cam, crank, map, tps, ais, coolant temp and air charge. Using a DVOM measure your voltage at the tps connector. If it reads 5 volts (+/- .2v) then plug the sensor in and then read the voltage at the map sensor connector. If it reads 5 volts then plug the sensor in and check the voltage at connector for the coolant temp sensor....and so on and so on until you get a reading above 5volts. If at any time you get 8 volts you are looking at a shorted sensor. o2 sensors are real common for this year truck.
Keep us posted Lou.....................By the way you never mentioned whether the CEL light is on or comes on when key in run posistion.
Hope this helps...Russ

 

Hey Russ, I just responded to your PM, thank you!!!!! Seems the only place I get more than 5V is on the incoming signal to the crank and cam sensors. Ever other sensor has 5V. I replied about the CEL's in my PM, but for others who may come here to learn about troubleshooting their truck, I am pulling code 12,32, and 55. So that kinda tells me that the PCM is working. CEL is coming on when key on, relays click then goes off. The few times I did get it to run, CEL wasn't a factor. I don't know if CEL is supposed to stay on till she runs. Great info about the voltage, and troubleshooting it. I will definetly go through that today, when I get down to the truck. And yes, I will be posting results till this truck is 100%. There are a number of items that need attention so I'm considering this a mini restoration for this guy. I'll be posting pics as I move along for posterity. One thing that drives me nuts when I go to a site, is threads with no pics, more importantly, threads that have no conclusion.

 

Hey gang, just checking in and updating. I went through the procedure as outlined by willy55, this time with a fresh battery. I am reading 6.5V on all sensors, except the O2, due to the fact it looks as though I need to lower the trans to get to the connector, or find plastic man. Hopefully I will have time tomorrow. I'm a line tech for the local cable company here and get to work on it between jobs and time I steal so maybe an hour at most per day. I'm also going to manually turn the motor over to see if the new crank and cam sensors are doing what they're supposed to.

 

OK i got to the 02 and no change in the sensor voltage, Still showing 6.4 or so. Anyone know if a non security computer will work and if not how to ground the security system to eliminate it? I was kinda poking around today and saw butt connectors in the door jamb leading to the drivers door. I know someone rewired the speakers but wondering if they screwed something else in there. Alarm does disarm if key is in drivers door. Right now I'm running out of straws to grasp.

 

ok update time. I bought the alldata form autozone. Now that I have full disclosure of the electricals I can start troubleshooting. I verified that the entire ASD and fuel pump relay circuit is working. I verified that I'm getting battery vlotage to the PCM. I verified that all my grounds from the PCM to battery are in order. What I'm not getting is the 5 and 8 volts from the PCM that feed the sensors, but I am getting 6.4 to to 6.6 volts at the sensors. Tomorrow I'm going to verify every freakin wire in the harness from each sensor back to the PCM. I ordered a new PCM just to see what happens, should have it in a day or two. I'll post up once I verify all the other wires.I also verified voltage changes from the crank sensor and cam sensor. Can't verify the 0-5V because the refference voltage is wrong but the fact that they are dropping and rising proved the pickups in each are working.

 

Well I put the computer in from a known running vehicle. Freakin thing still won't start. I'm going to the New york auto show tomorrow so I'm not touching it. I'll post up when I have something of relevance to post

 

As promised something relevant.OK score is Jeep 132, me 1. But it's the ultimate victory. After dicking around with the wires some more, determined that the ground wire at the coil plug was chaffed and making and breaking ground. 10 bucks for a new pigtail at the boneyard and she is good now!. Now I gotta find out what's driving the check engine light to set off for the EGR system, and replace a window regulator, and fix the A/C and the vent selector and exhaust leak. Then i can give the truck back to guy. Um, never mind gonna be a while.

 

so what happened with this?Us newbies can really benefit from what everyone finds out while trouble shooting..Let us know

 

But it's the ultimate victory. After dicking around with the wires some more, determined that the ground wire at the coil plug was chaffed and making and breaking ground. 10 bucks for a new pigtail at the boneyard and she is good now! So to sum up it was the connector at the coil.

 

OK time to update. The no run was due to the coil connector, the power windows weren't working due to one broken wire in the drivers door, and the battery draw was coming from something in the security system. Not sure what, but the owner doesn't want to fix it, so i just told him to make sure the alarm is off using the door key switch. I pulled fuse #4 and seems to be good. Even grounding the module didn't work, and removing the module of course won't let it run.

 

I'm researching the same type of start stall problem. Congrats on gettng it done !!!