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View Poll Results: which one should be my next mod
front locker
0
0%
rear locker
63.64%
winch
36.36%
Voters: 11. You may not vote on this poll

help me decide my next mod.

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Old May 25, 2010 | 07:39 PM
  #1  
sportrider's Avatar
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From: Pueblo, CO.
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default help me decide my next mod.

while I'm happy with the off road performance of my ZJ, I'm ready to enhance it's ablilities. although bigger tires and cutting the fenders would help, I like the stance and want to retain it's clean look. so I've narrowed it down to three choices.

#1. winch
#2. front locker
#3. rear locker

I've looked at the power trax lockers the price is right, and the reviews seem good. so the question is what axle would I benefit the most from, without loosing on road handling and tire wear.
or I could go with a winch. I know after buying a winch and either a winch mount or bumper, the price will be more expensive then lockers. but if can't get over or around an obsticle on my own I can always drag myself there. plus I'd be able to pull myself out if I get stuck or help recover a buddy if they get stuck. so what would you do? anyone running lockers and a winch,let me know which one you feel was the biggest value in the long run.
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Old May 25, 2010 | 08:20 PM
  #2  
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dude, buy a pair of aussie lockers. they are 245 each shipped. if you plan on doing nothing else then they will probably never be an issue.
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Old May 26, 2010 | 11:24 AM
  #3  
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From: Pueblo, CO.
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Engine: 4.0
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how do they perform on pavement? I want to keep my ZJ streetable since it's my DD.
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Old May 26, 2010 | 11:26 AM
  #4  
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I have no personal experience with them but people say good things. which transfercase does your ZJ have? I was told I wouldn't want any lock in the front while I still had the 249 in it. I now have a 231 and am ready for at least a rear locker.
edit: nm, i see you have a 242 so I guess you are good to go.

Last edited by ToyComa; May 26, 2010 at 11:30 AM.
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Old May 26, 2010 | 11:44 AM
  #5  
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From: Pueblo, CO.
Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0
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I may go with a locker, it's the least expensive mod I can do. I was thinking about an OX locker for the front, but at nearly $900 it kinda changed my mind.
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Old May 26, 2010 | 11:45 AM
  #6  
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From: Coeur d' Alene, Idaho
Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0 rebuilt w/ bored TB, banks header, upgraded ignition, 3 row rad, high flow h2o pump, 180* t-stat
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lock the rear first, youll be amazed what you can do in 2WD with just the rear locked, and go with the power trax lockers, they last twice as long and are quieter on the street. as far as affecting your rig as a DD it wont, youll learn to coast through corners so the rear unlocks...a jeep with the rear locked in 2WD can do anything any jeep with open diffs in 4WD can, but better. plus youll be able to peel out and throw mud from both tires at the same time, who doesnt want that?
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Old May 26, 2010 | 11:49 AM
  #7  
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plus a winch will not keep it looking the way you want it to look. and you would need a bumper also mount that winch to.
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Old May 26, 2010 | 11:51 AM
  #8  
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From: Pueblo, CO.
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the rear is probably easier to install, anyhow... right?
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Old May 26, 2010 | 11:57 AM
  #9  
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i think so. that is my #1 reason I want to do the rear if I only do 1 locker.
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Old May 26, 2010 | 12:07 PM
  #10  
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From: Coeur d' Alene, Idaho
Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0 rebuilt w/ bored TB, banks header, upgraded ignition, 3 row rad, high flow h2o pump, 180* t-stat
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Originally Posted by sportrider
the rear is probably easier to install, anyhow... right?
depends on the axle but yours is a Dana 35 C-clip so it takes maybe 2 hours. basically pull your tires, pull your diff cover, pull the cross pin, push your axles in 1'' and the c-clips usually fall right out (use a magnet if not) pull the axles out 3" and the spider gears will fall right out. replace the spiders with the lunch box locker assembly. re-assemble. then enjoy showing all your friends up in 2WD!!!
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Old May 26, 2010 | 12:11 PM
  #11  
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what he said lol. that is why I would rather do the rear if I only do one lol.
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Old May 26, 2010 | 12:14 PM
  #12  
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From: Coeur d' Alene, Idaho
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Engine: 4.0 rebuilt w/ bored TB, banks header, upgraded ignition, 3 row rad, high flow h2o pump, 180* t-stat
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the front is just as easy, just takes a little longer cause theres more to get the axles out, but sometimes you have to pull the carrier and ring gear just to get the cross pin out so it can be a pain. this is what i have to do to get my lock rite in my HP D30.....
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Old May 26, 2010 | 12:26 PM
  #13  
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From: Westfield, MA
Year: 1999.
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Engine: 4.0, I6
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before really saying what you should do next i think it would be helpfull to know the specs of your rig currently. depending on what youve done to it so far will help decide what to do next, also how much and how agressivly you wheel it.
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Old May 26, 2010 | 12:45 PM
  #14  
wheeler's Avatar
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From: gig harbor, washington
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
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lock the rear, and sway bar disconnects will be your best friend if you dont already have them, there easier to install and cheaper.
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Old May 26, 2010 | 12:48 PM
  #15  
wheeler's Avatar
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From: gig harbor, washington
Year: 1995
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Engine: 4.0 L
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if your going to lock the front make sure it is a locker that you can turn on and off, if not your steering will become stiffer and your turning radius will suck

ei, eaton e-locker or arb airlocker
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