Help with lift kits.
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
Help with lift kits.
I just bought my first jeep (96 grand cherokee 5.2l) and took it to some trails this weekend and had a blast! its completely stock but it still did good. I am looking at adding a lift kit but i have no idea where to start. i am big into honda cars so this is a whole new field for me. i did some reading around and want to go to a 2-3'' lift. it is a daily driver so i needs to keep it reasonable and drivable on road. would a 3'' be to much? i want to keep it simple and not have to go crazy to make it all work.
so if someone could point me into good reliable brands of lifts at a good price, extra parts needed to make it work, stuff i should get with a lift kit...should i go with a smaller lift... any help would be appreciated. thanks!
so if someone could point me into good reliable brands of lifts at a good price, extra parts needed to make it work, stuff i should get with a lift kit...should i go with a smaller lift... any help would be appreciated. thanks!
Last edited by Green_96GCL; 09-28-2010 at 02:38 PM.
#2
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Grand Haven, MI
Posts: 418
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2 V8
ok so i got the same exact model and year, and i bought a 3.5 inch lift (spring swap) for $330 it was the cheapest I could find that worked with the AWD models. and let me just say you are more than likely gonna get death wobble, and possibley a broken front axle, so it can get expensive and frustrating, other than that the lift kit i bought was nice ironrockoffroad.com, nice stuff
OH and by the way a 2" lift isnt really worth the work
OH and by the way a 2" lift isnt really worth the work
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Mt. Iron, MN
Posts: 704
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 96 Limited ZJ
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2 w/mods
ok so i got the same exact model and year, and i bought a 3.5 inch lift (spring swap) for $330 it was the cheapest I could find that worked with the AWD models. and let me just say you are more than likely gonna get death wobble, and possibley a broken front axle, so it can get expensive and frustrating, other than that the lift kit i bought was nice ironrockoffroad.com, nice stuff
OH and by the way a 2" lift isnt really worth the work
OH and by the way a 2" lift isnt really worth the work
I think a 2.5" BB from just about any company will make you happy. If you go this route get new shocks also. Your stock ones will work but they are probably worn out anyways. You can stick up to 31" tires on with minimal rubbing.
Another common low buck lift is the F-R swap. You take your front springs and put them in the rear and buy new front 3.5" springs. Jordan1996 ZJ did this.
I went with a KOR 2.5" BB plus a set of Up Country Springs (they are 1 inch taller than stock springs) which netted me about 3.75" of lift. I am able to put my 34" LTBs under with some rubbing.
Some companies are Ironrockoffroad.com, KOR, Rough Country, Rusty's Offroad
Enjoy!
#4
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Grand Haven, MI
Posts: 418
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2 V8
i did make a few gramatical mistakes,opps. i all ways confuse the driveshaft for "axle" and I new it was an all time 4x4 i didnt really think know there was a difference, and my Cv driveshaft is still intact but it is definatly going to have to be replaced, even a small patch of sand creates a lot of shakin
considering you dont want to replace a lot of stuff a 2.5 would probly be a good fit
considering you dont want to replace a lot of stuff a 2.5 would probly be a good fit
Last edited by Jordan1996 ZJ; 09-28-2010 at 09:34 PM.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Mt. Iron, MN
Posts: 704
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 96 Limited ZJ
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2 w/mods
i did make a few gramatical mistakes,opps. i all ways confuse the driveshaft for "axle" and I new it was an all time 4x4 i didnt really think know there was a difference, and my Cv driveshaft is still intact but it is definatly going to have to be replaced, even a small patch of sand creates a lot of shakin
considering you dont want to replace a lot of stuff a 2.5 would probly be a good fit
considering you dont want to replace a lot of stuff a 2.5 would probly be a good fit
What do you mean by shakin? That to me sounds like axle hop and if so thats not your front driveshaft causing that problem.
#6
Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Mt Morris Mi
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ok, I got my Cherokee with a 2.5 lift. They put f 150 spring on the front and left the sway bars off. The back they put steel square tubing for lift blocks, and installed air shocks.
1. I had 1in toe in on the front,and yes I found out what the death wobble was the first week I had him. We took off the track bar and it was under a lot off pressure. we made the hole bigger and welded a nice thick washer in the right place. minus the sway bar and alignment. the front is fine.
2. The right blocks that go in the back have a taper in them. That taper is important. your u joints can go bad. you will feel a vibration. DO NOT use aluminum blocks trust me. Air shocks are not the way to go. mine will be changed.
3. If you go any higher there are other thinks that will be a factor in your lift. drive shaft angle, transfer case, and other things.
I have a good friend that has a spring shop. That's all he does is install spring on all cars, and trucks, and he owns a jeep.
1. I had 1in toe in on the front,and yes I found out what the death wobble was the first week I had him. We took off the track bar and it was under a lot off pressure. we made the hole bigger and welded a nice thick washer in the right place. minus the sway bar and alignment. the front is fine.
2. The right blocks that go in the back have a taper in them. That taper is important. your u joints can go bad. you will feel a vibration. DO NOT use aluminum blocks trust me. Air shocks are not the way to go. mine will be changed.
3. If you go any higher there are other thinks that will be a factor in your lift. drive shaft angle, transfer case, and other things.
I have a good friend that has a spring shop. That's all he does is install spring on all cars, and trucks, and he owns a jeep.
#7
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Grand Haven, MI
Posts: 418
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2 V8
uhh, im not really sure but it only really happens when im going up a tiny tiny hill and the tires spin just a little, if its the axle im gonna shoot myself
Trending Topics
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Mt. Iron, MN
Posts: 704
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 96 Limited ZJ
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2 w/mods
Ok, I got my Cherokee with a 2.5 lift. They put f 150 spring on the front and left the sway bars off. The back they put steel square tubing for lift blocks, and installed air shocks.
1. I had 1in toe in on the front,and yes I found out what the death wobble was the first week I had him. We took off the track bar and it was under a lot off pressure. we made the hole bigger and welded a nice thick washer in the right place. minus the sway bar and alignment. the front is fine.
2. The right blocks that go in the back have a taper in them. That taper is important. your u joints can go bad. you will feel a vibration. DO NOT use aluminum blocks trust me. Air shocks are not the way to go. mine will be changed.
3. If you go any higher there are other thinks that will be a factor in your lift. drive shaft angle, transfer case, and other things.
I have a good friend that has a spring shop. That's all he does is install spring on all cars, and trucks, and he owns a jeep.
1. I had 1in toe in on the front,and yes I found out what the death wobble was the first week I had him. We took off the track bar and it was under a lot off pressure. we made the hole bigger and welded a nice thick washer in the right place. minus the sway bar and alignment. the front is fine.
2. The right blocks that go in the back have a taper in them. That taper is important. your u joints can go bad. you will feel a vibration. DO NOT use aluminum blocks trust me. Air shocks are not the way to go. mine will be changed.
3. If you go any higher there are other thinks that will be a factor in your lift. drive shaft angle, transfer case, and other things.
I have a good friend that has a spring shop. That's all he does is install spring on all cars, and trucks, and he owns a jeep.
Sounds like a hack job of lifting it to me..... Do you realize your talking about a XJ and he has a ZJ so lift blocks do not apply here.
This is normal. This happens because of loss and then gain of traction. Do it too hard and you can snap your axle or other components.
#9
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Grand Haven, MI
Posts: 418
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2 V8
Sounds like a hack job of lifting it to me..... Do you realize your talking about a XJ and he has a ZJ so lift blocks do not apply here.
This is normal. This happens because of loss and then gain of traction. Do it too hard and you can snap your axle or other components.
This is normal. This happens because of loss and then gain of traction. Do it too hard and you can snap your axle or other components.
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Mt. Iron, MN
Posts: 704
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 96 Limited ZJ
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2 w/mods
The angles of the control arms have changed. This is why long arm kits are so nice they bring everything back close to stock geometries.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Sandyman
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here
1
09-10-2015 09:21 AM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)