Grinding upon acceleration...HELP
12-26-2010, 05:50 PM
#1
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Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2
Grinding upon acceleration...HELP
I just purchased my first Jeep. ('95 Grand Cherokee Limited 5.2) Every time I accelerate there is a harsh grinding sound coming from the front end that stops when I reach my intended speed. Also, it will not grind if I let on the gas real easy, only when I get into it a little. The same things happens in reverse. Does anyone have any idea what is wrong? I have zero experience working on vehicles...
04-13-2011, 08:47 PM
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
I just purchased my first Jeep. ('95 Grand Cherokee Limited 5.2) Every time I accelerate there is a harsh grinding sound coming from the front end that stops when I reach my intended speed. Also, it will not grind if I let on the gas real easy, only when I get into it a little. The same things happens in reverse. Does anyone have any idea what is wrong? I have zero experience working on vehicles...
04-14-2011, 11:49 AM
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Year: 2004
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.7L V8
Welcome to CF.
I'd check the CV/universal joints at the front hub area and in the front driveshaft. Then check the front hubs for play. If they're loose they can make a noise similar to what you're hearing. Put a jack under the axle housing and lift the tire off the ground. Grab the tire at the 9 & 3 o'clock positions and try and shake it back & forth to see see if it wobbles any. There shouldn't be any noticeable play. Try spinning it and listen for noise.
I'd check the CV/universal joints at the front hub area and in the front driveshaft. Then check the front hubs for play. If they're loose they can make a noise similar to what you're hearing. Put a jack under the axle housing and lift the tire off the ground. Grab the tire at the 9 & 3 o'clock positions and try and shake it back & forth to see see if it wobbles any. There shouldn't be any noticeable play. Try spinning it and listen for noise.
04-15-2011, 06:49 AM
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Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
I'm also having this problem. Turns out the two front wheels need new UPPER BALL JOINTS, LOWER BALL JOINTS and DRIVESHAFT UNIVERSAL JOINTS. I'm just trying to figure out what tools I'll need to work on it.
04-15-2011, 08:20 AM
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Year: 2004
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Remove the hub bearing & axle shaft. Should be a 38 MM nut.
Remove the tie rod or drag link from steering knuckle.
Remove the cotter pins & nuts from the upper & lower ball joints and strike the steering knuckle with a brass hammer to loosen it from the ball studs and remove it.
Since the ball joints are pressed in you'll need a ball joint removal tool/press which can be rented at most auto parts stores. It looks like a heavy duty c-clamp with interchangeable fittings for removing/installing the ball joints.
The u-joints can be replaced with a set of snap ring or needle nose pliers, a hammer, and a socket that is slightly smaller than the bearing cap for pushing it inward, and a socket that has a inner dimension that allows the bearing cap to go inside it for removing the old one when removing it.
Remove the snap rings.
Put the large socket under the bottom bearing cap, and using the small socket and hammer, drive the upper cap inward until the bottom cap falls into the large socket.
Remove the u-joint and drive out the upper cap. Clean any residue from the yoke/shaft. Place one new cap on the bottom of the shaft/yoke and press until seated flush. Place u-joint in bearing cap and invert assembly. Place other bearing cap in other hole and press until both snap rings can be installed.
Be careful and stop if excess pressure is noted, as the needle bearings can become dislodged.
I hope this makes sense.
Last edited by ol"blue; 04-15-2011 at 08:29 AM.
04-15-2011, 12:27 PM
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Originally Posted by ol"blue
13, 15, 18, & 38 MM sockets and or wrenchs, hammer, ball joint press, jack & stands. (I'm sure I'm forgetting something).
Remove the hub bearing & axle shaft. Should be a 38 MM nut.
Remove the tie rod or drag link from steering knuckle.
Remove the cotter pins & nuts from the upper & lower ball joints and strike the steering knuckle with a brass hammer to loosen it from the ball studs and remove it.
Since the ball joints are pressed in you'll need a ball joint removal tool/press which can be rented at most auto parts stores. It looks like a heavy duty c-clamp with interchangeable fittings for removing/installing the ball joints.
The u-joints can be replaced with a set of snap ring or needle nose pliers, a hammer, and a socket that is slightly smaller than the bearing cap for pushing it inward, and a socket that has a inner dimension that allows the bearing cap to go inside it for removing the old one when removing it.
Remove the snap rings.
Put the large socket under the bottom bearing cap, and using the small socket and hammer, drive the upper cap inward until the bottom cap falls into the large socket.
Remove the u-joint and drive out the upper cap. Clean any residue from the yoke/shaft. Place one new cap on the bottom of the shaft/yoke and press until seated flush. Place u-joint in bearing cap and invert assembly. Place other bearing cap in other hole and press until both snap rings can be installed.
Be careful and stop if excess pressure is noted, as the needle bearings can become dislodged.
I hope this makes sense.
Remove the hub bearing & axle shaft. Should be a 38 MM nut.
Remove the tie rod or drag link from steering knuckle.
Remove the cotter pins & nuts from the upper & lower ball joints and strike the steering knuckle with a brass hammer to loosen it from the ball studs and remove it.
Since the ball joints are pressed in you'll need a ball joint removal tool/press which can be rented at most auto parts stores. It looks like a heavy duty c-clamp with interchangeable fittings for removing/installing the ball joints.
The u-joints can be replaced with a set of snap ring or needle nose pliers, a hammer, and a socket that is slightly smaller than the bearing cap for pushing it inward, and a socket that has a inner dimension that allows the bearing cap to go inside it for removing the old one when removing it.
Remove the snap rings.
Put the large socket under the bottom bearing cap, and using the small socket and hammer, drive the upper cap inward until the bottom cap falls into the large socket.
Remove the u-joint and drive out the upper cap. Clean any residue from the yoke/shaft. Place one new cap on the bottom of the shaft/yoke and press until seated flush. Place u-joint in bearing cap and invert assembly. Place other bearing cap in other hole and press until both snap rings can be installed.
Be careful and stop if excess pressure is noted, as the needle bearings can become dislodged.
I hope this makes sense.
Nice walk threw!!
04-15-2011, 04:33 PM
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Year: 1995
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Holy ****! Thanks for the detailed post. Lol. I was honestly not even expecting a reply to my concern. I'm sure it's alot harder than it sounds. I'm thinking of filming the process while doing it and uploading the video to this thread to help out anyone else, assuming I don't screw anything up. Again, thanks for the instructions. I see you're a mechanic.
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04-15-2011, 04:42 PM
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Year: 1995
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By the way, Ol"Blue...
My tires are feathering, and I think because of the joints issue. I've been advised by a mechanic that to replace the joints on my car I will need to replace the tires first. Is this true? Is it necessary? Can I get by 2 weeks after replacing the joints without screwing the tires? Thanks.
My tires are feathering, and I think because of the joints issue. I've been advised by a mechanic that to replace the joints on my car I will need to replace the tires first. Is this true? Is it necessary? Can I get by 2 weeks after replacing the joints without screwing the tires? Thanks.
04-15-2011, 08:31 PM
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Year: 2004
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By the way, Ol"Blue...
My tires are feathering, and I think because of the joints issue. I've been advised by a mechanic that to replace the joints on my car I will need to replace the tires first. Is this true? Is it necessary? Can I get by 2 weeks after replacing the joints without screwing the tires? Thanks.
My tires are feathering, and I think because of the joints issue. I've been advised by a mechanic that to replace the joints on my car I will need to replace the tires first. Is this true? Is it necessary? Can I get by 2 weeks after replacing the joints without screwing the tires? Thanks.
04-18-2011, 05:56 PM
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Wish me luck. I'll be doing this process by myself tomorrow after visiting AutoZone to pick up the parts + tools. I'm a mechanic by no means and hope not to screw anything up. How hard could it be, right? 
04-19-2011, 07:53 AM
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Take your time and do one side at a time. That way you'll have the other side as a reference guide if you need it.
Good luck and let us know how you make out.
Good luck and let us know how you make out.
04-19-2011, 10:44 AM
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Well, for starters I just picked up all the parts from autozone for $176, then bought a 200 piece Craftsman tool kit on sale @ Sears for $129. Do I need to rent the ball press from AutoZone... is it necessary? Ok, will let you know. If I don't need the press, I'll begin today or tomorrow. If I do, can't start until next week. Tight on money. Thanks, ol"blue.
04-19-2011, 03:11 PM
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I don't see any way of doing it without a press.
This will give you an idea. >
That shows a regular Cherokee but it's very similar.
This will give you an idea. >
04-19-2011, 06:09 PM
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The red stuff is assembly lube.
If you remove the center axle nut and hub bearing you don't have to remove the axle shaft. The drivers side shaft is short but the pass. side is long.
If you remove the center axle nut and hub bearing you don't have to remove the axle shaft. The drivers side shaft is short but the pass. side is long.