aa7kn

Hi, I have a 1997 Grand Cherokee 4.0 automatic trans. when I go to start the motor in the morning or when it is cold, I have to switch on and off the ignition key many times before the gauges move, then it will start, if I try to start it without the gauges being activated, it just turns over and won't start. I have already changed the ignition switch, any ideas what it could be? I might add, that after it has started, and it warms up, it works good like it should, I can shut it off and restart it no problems, but after it cools off and mostly after work or in the morning, I have to play with it until the gauges activate, then it will start. any ideas as to what is wrong would be great. and thanks in advance.

aa7kn

really ?? no one has any idea why this is happening....I hope someone can help me....

nicksan

Maybe you should post your question in the Grand Cherokee sub-forum, you would get more responses.

aa7kn

thanks, I didn't know anything about a sub forum....

twinkiedooter

My 97 XJ had the exact same problem. I changed a LOT of stuff to the tune of a half of a zillion dollars but I found that this trick has worked for me for the past YEAR I have owned her. I turn the key...let it go bong bong bong and then when all the dash lights go out I turn the key and crank her for no more than 5 seconds. If she does not start right up I turn off and start all over again. When I go to turn her off I put it in park, count to 5 and then turn off. She seems to want to start right up after this. I did find that the fuller the gas tank is the easier she starts. When it gets to half tank she gets cranky and starts her hissy fits again.

Someone mentioned new PCM to me and I said no as I don't have mega bucks to buy a new one. I think my problem and probably yours is the fuel regulator that lets the gas return to the tank and not stay in the line. I have owned my 97 for one year and figure if I can put up with it....the heck with it. I'm just living with it.

You may also try a new fuel pump. I bought one but it's still in my junk room waiting for my mechanic to install it some 8 months after I bought it. Yes I haven't joined the Pocrastinator's Club yet either.........

Jose Calderon

Try getting a hold of a fuel pressure gauge. You can rent one and return it and get your money back from a parts store. Turn the key just to the on position and read what the fuel pressure is in your rail. Not sure what the specs are but I know mine reads somewhere in the high 30's. If it seems low, your fuel pump is getting weak. If you're reading a decent pressure when you go to start it, but its not starting first try it shouldn't be your fuel pump, because its supplying enough pressure to start the engine.
If you have good pressure try starting it with the gauge attached, then shut it off. Check the pressure every 5 min for about 15 minutes. If it seems like its dropping rapidly, maybe you have a bad o ring on one of your injectors.
I'd try that before you go and pay to get your fuel pump replaced which I know can be pretty pricy if your pump is in the gas tank.
If you've already paid for the pump, you can always hang on to it until you do need it!

zjWaggy

Jose gas the right idea! Hook up a fuel pressure gauge. And see what your fuel pressure is to see if your pump is alright, and then leave it to check your fuel pressure regulator.

OverlandZJ

Here's a free test.. while engine cold.

Turn ignition switch to on.. not start. Wait..

You should hear a series of clicking coming from underhood, it's the fuel pump relay. Start it..

If it starts it's the ECU, it's got corrosion on the soldering points. There's a large thread on resoldering this or a few guys on the bay offering the service on exchange basis.

dave1123

Yeah, that was my thought, a slow responding PCM, probably due to weak capacitors. If the gauges don't activate, the PCM isn't on line.

Jose Calderon

Yeah, I would have guessed that at first, but the gauges turned on and acted normal. Cracked perfectly fine, just wouldn't fire. I'm thinking it was the pins for the ignition coil that connect on the PCM, because that's the code that kept showing up