Excuse my waa, but in the Off Topic Discussion, there is a list of acronyms. CPS is crankshaft position sensor. I've been using this for 6 years and nobody but you has corrected me.

 

thanks for the help guys. Waiting for the dealer to open so I can call for a price of the sensor. usually I purchase whatever I can find a decent price on usually aftermarket parts but video after video and such recommends to use the mopar part for this. even the ones autozone sells they say is 4 times less in strength than the mopar and only 15 bucks or so cheaper if that.

Is there a way to test this part after I replace it to verify its bad? Just wondering so I am not worried the vehicle will die while driving it. In fact with the tests I was doing I was beginning to think it might have been a fluke then this morning cause i couldn't sleep any longer and it was light out I decided after watching videos to put on a obd II scanner. I am not sure if my scanner has memory but the only thing was a cat. code which is the same that my dodge van has as well. wish I would have erased that when I saw it as while the vehicle was running (the scanner wouldn't connect when only turned to the on position) the vehicle died again and wouldn't restart right away, about a min later it did.

I think I might has a dirty ground issue as well. Seems some of the grounds are over by the oil filter and I have a leak there on the adapter I believe.

So perhaps I should also take care of that and get everything cleaned up. I was thinking about replacing the head gasket but I am not sure its needed as the leak I am sure is the adapter thats where the seller said he had a leak and fixed. But Looking at the starter its covered in oil as is the area and stuff right below the adapter.

Since I have a good amount of time to fix stuff. My mother is goign on vac. friday and can use her vehicle as needed I wouldn't dare drive the jeep just in case this is not solved cause if it dies while trying to go to work I don't have time for AAA to tow it and with her gone I would have no one to rescue me so I could get to work, all my friends would be sleeping at the time.

So do you guys know the easiest way to replace the crank sensor on the 1996 I've seen videos that say different things and I am not even sure the sensor is on the drivers side of the engine I didn't see it yesterday looks more like its at the back on the passenger side (not the sensor but the electrical connection).

ryan

 

Interesting. What is the acronym for the cam position sensor?

 

looks like I can't buy a part locally at a decent price. the dealer was 166 bucks where I can get the same thing offline for 90 or less. so it looks like i'll have to wait for the part to come in. good thing to have a backup vehicle.

 

I paid about 140 at the stealership.

 

On the 4.0, it's on the top side of the bellhousing on the driver's side right where it splits to the transmission. It's a PITA to get to. It's on the passenger's side on the V8. Both have a short harness with a connector attached. Some mount with 2 bolts and some with one. The single bolt ones need the paper spacer. I've been told the 4.0 uses a single bolt and the V8 uses 2, but IDK because I've never done one myself.

You CAN check it for a signal by back-probing the connector. slide a pin into the back side of the connector and connect an ANALOG voltmeter. (one with a needle) One wire is voltage supply, the other is signal which should pulse as the engine is cranked. When the engine is running, the signal pulses may be too quick to register on the meter. I THINK the supply voltage is only 5 volts, but I'm not sure.

 

There doesn't seem to be one, but I just say "cam sensor."

 

When I got my crank sensor out, the oem one, I checked it against a brand new Dontalast one. Even with 200k on it, the oe one had much stronger magnetic pull. That right there told me the Mopar one was the way to go.

 

CPS $83.40 wholesalemopar.com

 

is that what happens the magnetic pull fades?

 

It's possible that's what it is. It's a Hall-effect switch where the magnetic field is changed by a metal object passing close by and tripping it. Depending on the strength of the field, the distance from the object matters. ABS wheel sensors work the same way, but the sharpness of the tone rings get screwed up by rust as well.

 

Hello everyone and Dave1123

Hope to try to get this repair done sometime this week depending on when the part comes in.

In the meantime I've watched a few more videos.

one has you taking part of your dash apart, that seems more work than needed in my opinion.

also has anyone seen or used this? And exactly what is it? I'd hate to spend money without even knowing what it is or if its worth it.

http://www.dyingjeep.com/


ryan

 

at first I thought it might be for reprograming but it looks like one of those self modification deals, like cutting or splicing wires? some offer plug in program modifiers but they usually plug into the OBD. I don't understand what that modification changes in the system.

 

It looks like a video on how to clean you PCM plugs and check for bad solder joints.

There is a way to access it thru the floor thru the shift cable hole. here's a couple of pictures;

 

Mine is like this, and I found it pretty easy actually to just lie down behind the front driver side wheel and go up with a ratchet and 2 foot of extensions, a swivel adapter and a socket (think is a 13mm?) What you need to do this though is a battery powered worklight that you can set on the ground and point up at the bolt.