rcguymike

Yeah 242 definitely cheaper, maybe even easier if you find the right year

Basslicks

Gotta make sure you get the shift gate and linkage too though. That adds to the price a little.

rcguymike

You can make the 249 linkage work and the detents in the TC should be good enough but that would make it "cleaner".

Debi

Hi, noob here. I have a 1999 grand cherokee with the straight 6. It has 235k miles and runs well, mostly.

There is a hesitation when I first get going. It's really dragging while in gear and won't rev for 5 or 10 seconds (unless it is in neutral), every time when it's just starting out, not while idling. I have to put it in neutral and rev it a little, then it gets over it. Then it's fine for the rest of the ride, no matter how long.

The other problem just happened today. The fuel pressure was about nil. For a while. Just long enough to need a tow. Now it has pressure. SMH.

It seems like this Jeep has an electronics ghost - it usually messes with the radio controls on the wheel or the window motor switches, but now it's in the fuel pump circuits! Sometimes things work, then they don't, then they do again for no apparent reason.

There are no codes, so I am guessing it is not the CPS. The relay is also good, I
swapped it with the starter relay as they have the same part number.

So my question is, where to start? I am guessing wires and connectors, then the pump itself. Is there a fuel filter somewhere? Could it be that simple?

Davegriffeth56

im working on a 95 grand cherokee. the issue im having is im getting no movement in 2 wheel or 4 wheel drive from the transfer case. ive swapped out 2 different transfer cases now and still nothing. i removed the case and put it in forward and reverse and the transmission spins in both directions, ive also noticed the 2wd - 4wd light on the dash is no longer workling either. and suggestions would be greatly appriciated

XJwonders

What kind of transfer cases? All of them used units from a junkyard?

dave1123

Debi, at 235K miles the transmission is tired. When you first start it, try letting it idle for a while in neutral, then see if it responds better. the o-rings on the clutch pistons are hard and need to soften up to work properly to engage the clutches.

The electrical gremlins are probably just dirty connections in the harness plugs or weak grounds. The window switches may have broken wires in the flexible bundle between the doors and the body.

About the fuel pump. There may be a corroded connection at the plug on the tank or a loose ground. There is a fuel filter in the line down by the tank that has a pressure regulator in it.

My 2000 Grand Cherokee has 221K miles on it, but it was a garage queen and well maintained before I bought it so I don't have too many electrical problems with it yet. Any electrical connection underneath the jeep can get corroded and wires can break very easily. For instance, my reverse lights quit working and it was a wire in the neutral safety switch plug that broke off just because of flexing.

The best thing you can do, even though it's a laborious process, is clean and inspect every harness connector you can get access to and take all your ground connection apart and clean their mating surfaces. Remember, no vehicle is designed to last forever, otherwise you wouldn't buy a new one, LOL!

dave1123

Are you sure the transmission is engaging? Sure, the shaft spins, but does it have enough torque to drive the wheels?

XJwonders

The reason I asked about the transfer cases was because of the possibility of NP247 or NP249 clutches being worn out

dave1123

In both of those cases, the clutches are just to drive the front shaft. He should still be getting the rear shaft to power the vehicle. Even if the chain was broken, the rear shaft should still drive. What I'm saying is the transmission may not be providing the torque to move the car.

BTW, the np247 was only produced beginning in 99. Basically it's a 249 with a gerotor unit to replace the viscous clutch and it has no speed sensor in it.

XJwonders

Oh ok I see now. Thanks for the clarification

Davegriffeth56

It's a 231 tc and it drove just fine before taking it out and replacing it.and yes they are from the junk yard how.much torque the trans has I have no idea but it did drive just fine the day it was parkes

dave1123

Just for jollies, check the input shaft spline size of the one you took out in comparison to the ones you're trying to put in. There was a major change in 95.5 that may have something to do with your problem. Early models had a smaller trans output spline.

notabrightcrayon

hi all, im new to this forum and im hopeing someone can help me.

so i have a 98 jeep cherokee sport and shes having issues. it seems like when its warm out my airbag light will come on and when it does i lose my ac and my blinkers, (blinkers work when i hold the break but stop when i let off) but my hazard lights will still work.... ive already replaced the blinker relay and the ignition switch but still have the issue.... can someone please help?

dave1123

First of all, welcome to CF!

Second, I'm not going to blast you for being in the wrong section because both Cherokees and GRAND Cherokees are pretty much the same when it comes to electrical stuff. However, do you have the amber turn signals in the rear like the ZJs? The reason I ask this is the wiring is different. The brake wiring goes thru the turn signal switch if you don't.

Just for reference, the cherokee sport is an XJ and a grand cherokee is a ZJ. The MAIN difference is the XJ has rear leaf springs where ZJs have coils. There are a LOT of minor differences. There are a bunch of guys that prowl both sections so you may get your answer here anyway.

BTW, cute user name!