jronald

Do we have one? I just swapped mine in the 93. Be happy to write one if not.

Ron

Bustedback

Go for it man! You just might save somebody a whole pile of trouble.

rickybarth

with buying ****ty fuel oumos from autozone i got extremly good at changing my 97 grands fuel pump....i can do it in less than 45 minutes by myself lol i only did it like 4 times then i bought a oem pump and its fine

Bustedback

OEM is the key to a successful fuel pump repair.

jronald

Do Not Buy The Cheapest Pump You Can Find
Many of the members here can share tales on cheap pump replacements, and re-replacements, and yes re-replacements.
To be honest, your better off buying a used OEM pump then some of the new ones on the market. Bosch, Carter and OEM branded pumps are fine. Generally a good quality pump will cost well over $225.00USD as of April 2011. The local AutoVanceReillyboys have plenty for less than $200.00. These you want to avoid.

For the 93's or so if you can, run the Jeep till its almost out of fuel if you can.

Under the wheel well, drivers side is a rubber flap that is held on with 3 push pins. Remove the push pins and look to the 2 o'clock position, you will see the back side of the fuel filler inlet. There will be 2 hoses, one smaller than the other. Both are held in place by cheesy hose clamps. Loosen both hose clamps and with some difficulty twist the hoses on the tubes to break the bond. I used a rag covered pair of Channel Locks to break them free. Then carefully pull the hoses free from the metal filler tubes. Just let them hang free for the time being.

I chose to lift the rear of the Jeep on regular car ramps, and then placed jack stands under it just in case. You could probably do this on the ground, but its easier with the extra space.

I used the hard plastic air line for an 18 wheel truck as a siphon tube and drained 12 gallons out of my tank, not a lot of fun....but the fuel weighed about 50 pounds. Bottom line is get the fuel out of the tank.

On the front side of the tank, where you cant see them are 2 14mm nuts attached to 2 very long studs. The studs are located behind the axle, near the track bar. These studs hold the front of the fuel tank straps. There is no way you can find a long enough deep socket that will fit. I used a Crows Foot and backed the nuts down till I could get a deep well socket on them, and then broke one of them, the other came off OK.

If the tank is empty, and you dont rock it very hard, it will stay tucked up in its hole pretty well while you pull the straps down. They have a T shaped hanger at the rear, so take them to one side or the other and they will pop out of the hole in the rear.

Gently shove the tank towards the drivers side of the Jeep, and the passenger side will fall out of its hole and drop to the ground. You should now be able to reach the top of the tank quite easily. The small hose is just a vacuum line, twist and pull it off. There are 2 fuel lines and an electrical harness on top of the tank. I chose to release the fuel lines at the fuel filter, and right beside the fuel filter, instead of the top of the tank. It can be done at either place. Pinch the white keepers in, at the fittings/joint and they will twist free. There will be considerable leakage at the fuel filter, be prepared. Unplug the wire harness. By now moving the tank back towards the passenger side of the Jeep, the filler hoses will drop out of the frame rail and the tank is free.

I used a air blow gun to clean the top of the tank off, as mine had plenty of small rocks and some mud on the top of it. With the tank free, you will see what amounts to a Mason Jar lid set up, that actually holds the fuel filter in the tank. I used a large screw driver, and a small hammer to tap the ring counter clock wise to unscrew it. Take a little time and work slowly so nothing is damaged. Lift the ring off, and thread the 2 hoses and wire harness back through it. With a medium tip flat screw driver, gently pry the pump up a little bit around at a time, until you can pull the fuel pump out of the tank. Set it aside. There is a special tool that removes the ring, but its expensive.

Set the old and new fuel pump side by side and compare. Minor variations are fine and don't cause any issues. At this time note that the fuel hoses on the pumps are 2 different sizes.

On the new fuel pump, lower the gasket at the top of the pump, as low as possible. On my pump, it would go down almost 2 inches...but still stay attached to the pump. Carefully insert the pump into the tank. Because the gasket is not in the correct position, it will enter the tank before it should, that's FINE! Gently fit the gasket into the neck of the tank, then firmly push the fuel pump into place. I used a light lube to help everything go back into place. I did spend almost 1/2 hour trying to force the gasket in place, BEFORE I lowered it...then slid it into place. The pump is slightly tapered so lowering the gasket buys you a little extra room. Make sure the float/pump are turned the right direction when you reinsert it. The right direction is basically the float arm to the passenger side of the tank. Its not overly critical its exact but the gauge will have less wander the more East West you can get it.

Replace the Mason Jar ring, and tap it in place. Mine was very difficult to align, so don't get in a hurry. Once again, push the clips in on the fuel lines and replace them on the new pump. I needed to reuse the clips so I carefully removed them from the old pump and reinstalled them on the new pump. The new pump is now in the tank, the tank is ready to be reinstalled.

Since the tank is empty, you can man handle it back into the right general position with the drivers side up because the filler hoses are back in the frame, and the passenger side is still on the ground. Hook the vacuum line back up. Hook the 2 fuel lines back up. Hook the electrical back up. I used a small jack and a 2 foot piece of 2X6 pressure treated lumber to lift/hold the tank back into the correct position under the Jeep. I restarted the passenger side bolt in the fuel tank hanger, but did not tighten it more than a few turns.

Place about 4 gallons of fuel back into the tank. Cycle the ignition key 10 to 12 times, leaving the key in the run position at least 30 seconds before turning it off. Mine started but ran very rough for the first 2 minutes, them smoothed out and ran normally. The fuel gauge should read empty with 4 gallons, but should not read less than Empty. Shut down and look for leaks, if none add 2 more gallons of fuel and check the gauge again. It should read a little more than empty.

If you have broken one of the bolts, as I did, you now make a mad dash to Lowe's right before they close and buy a J-Bolt that is about 1.5 inches shorter than the original. Using the jack and board again, lift the tank to start the shorter bolt and run it up to the snug point. Use the included 2nd nut to jam the first into place. Recheck for leaks and add any remaining fuel. In my case about 8 more gallons. I checked the gauge again and now it shows a little under 1/2 tank. Check all lines again for leaks, snug all bolts again.

You are now done!

My plan is to run the Jeep for a couple of days before I fill the tank. Once it is filled keep an eye on it for additional non-pressure leaks. These can happen at the top of the tank, and will leak forward of the tank and at the fuel filler neck.



Ron