DaveTDG

Recently bought a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee. 4.0L 4x4 Laredo. It has pretty bad excessive play in the steering. A list of what I have already done:

Stabilizer bar bushings
Stabilizer bar links
Track bar
Drag Link and rod end
Tie rod ends (both left and right)
Ball joints (upper and lower both sides)
Steering dampener (shock)
New tires (balanced)
Alignment
Tried to adjust the steering box adjustment screw (no change). Turned it like 3 full circles. From what I gather, a 1/4 to a 1/2 turn should of been enough. I cant find any information on how this adjustment even works. Can you go to far?

Is it time to take it into a real mechanic? Or should I go ahead and replace the bearings and then if that doesnt work the upper and lower suspension arms? Could either of these really cause that much play in the steering? Place steering gear box? Any and all info suggestions would be great.

dave1123

That screw limits the vertical play in the sector shaft that the pitman arm is bolted to. If you went 3 full turns, it's probably stripped out, meaning the sector can move up and down freely, which isn't good. If it were my jeep, I'd replace the steering box.

Some guys have used a Dodge Durango steering box which is a touch larger but is beefier and bolts in perfectly. You just have to reposition the pitman arm. There are posts on the forum about it. A reman for your jeep costs around $100.

DaveTDG

Thanks for the info Dave. I found a video that showed exactly how adjusting that screw works. Turns out you can rotate that screw several times. But anything past a 1/4 or 1/2 turn is pretty solid proof, its in bad shape. Did some testing on the box. Disconnected the drag link from the pitman arm to see if I could get any wiggle or movement outta the pitman and couldnt. Watching as another person did maybe 1/4 inch movement on the steering wheel and the pitman arm moved. I know steering is under hydraulic pressure so trying to hold the arm in place while someone turns it, isnt a very good way to test it but I did that as well and still couldnt get any play in the arm.

Got to inspecting other components and didnt like the play I was getting in the upper and lower control arms. So I decided that was going to be my next area to work on. After watching some videos on how to get the bushings out (not drilling or cutting or burning) I decided, it was something I could do and save a little money by just doing the bushing. I really should have watch the entire videos first. The bushing removal was super easy. Some penetrating oil. A few taps around the areas where the bushings meet the arms to kinda bend in the metal of the bushings. A few hits on the end of a bar and out they came. Was thinking, wow, this is going to be easy! Then it came to trying to get the bolt hole in the bushing to line up with the mount on the axle... This is the part of the videos I would have benefited from watching before doing this... If I would have seen them all struggling with ratchet straps to pull the axles back in line, I would have rethought doing it. No matter how much jacking or ratcheting I do, I can not get that axle moved back far enough. The book says do not do more then one arm at a time but I am thinking I am going to have to remove the lower control arm just to get the upper one back in. I am going to try and disconnect the link from the stabilizer bar to see if maybe I can get some more movement outta the axle before I commit to removing the lower control arm. I really dont like the idea of having two bars that I cant get back in line... Maybe removing the shock might free up some movement...

DaveTDG

Well I was able to get the upper (passenger side) control arm back on. Didnt have to do any of the above I was thinking. Figured Id give it one more try without. I found that if I turned the wheels in the direction of the arm I was working on, I gained another 3/16 of an inch closer. That with just resting the axle on my jack (so it could roll slightly on the wheels) without a stand and 2 ratchet straps, a prayer and I was able to get it almost completely lined up. With the help of a screw driver to help feed the bolt in, was able to get it done. Now Im trying to decide if I want to try the rest myself or let my mechanic do it lol. Got a fishing trip coming up this weekend and think I will mash it around a bit. Going to head over to the U pull it wrecking yard and pick me up a dodge steering box to have on hand. Even if changing the bushing on the arms tightens up the play, I figure might as well go all the way with this.

Alfie9294

Had an almost identical problem, Had to replace the steering box after many hours of trying to diagnose the problem!

DaveTDG

Well my fishing trip was cancelled so was able to do some more work on the Jeep. With the knowledge of the passenger side, I was able to take off and reinstall the drivers side upper control arm SUPER easy. Turned the wheel in that direction and with the jack on the diff, I was able to pump the jack to the perfect spot where the bolts slide right out. Getting the front bushing out and then a new one back in on the hole on the axle was a fight. Just no room to work. Ended up being able to tap it in with a hammer and a concrete stake. Reversed it so I was hammering on the pointed end. but it was the only thing I had on hand that would fit between the coils in the spring.

Even though I have the bushing for the lower control arms, I am going to go after the steering box first. From what I understand, the nuts on the lowers are torqued to 120 fp. I dont have the means to really deal with that kinda poundage with my weekend warrior tools. Thanks Alfie for the info. Hey Dave, when you said a durango box will work, do I need to look for one the same year? Kinda makes sense seeing how they would be using the same parts in different models. But I really like the idea of a heavier duty box to put in.

SteveMongr

1/2" drive, 24" long breaker-bar is your best friend when doing suspension/chassis work. Don't bother with standard 3/8" sockets and ratchets, useless for this type of work. Will need 1/2" sockets/ratchet set. And a 1/2" torque wrench.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Capri-Tools...MAAOSwP25a7KLU
https://www.ebay.com/itm/EPAuto-1-2-...kAAOSwlzZbKijn

Place bushings in freezer for a few hours before installation, this can reduce the size just enough to make a difference.

Be very careful when adjusting the sector shaft on steering box. There are more factors involved than what most realize. Here is a quote from another thread that gives a small insight;

"Can you do just the adjustment in the link above? Yes, but..... If the worm bearing preload isn't that bad and you only make enough adjustment to take the play out then it will work "ok" only shortening the lifespan of the gear box a minimal amount. If the worm beairng preload is not correct and you only make the adjustment in the link above, the slop will return quickly and you will place a lot of wear and tear on the gear box. If your adjustments are way out, you can cause failure of the gear box."

DaveTDG

Thanks for the info Steve! And totally agree with needing to up my tool level. Was able to rent what I needed from auto zone when I did the ball joints. Didnt want to invest in tools that after this, I may never use again. I'll see what harbor freight has vs. those prices.