FMXFreak

Ok so I got the rear Dana 35 and my ZJ has drums on it. I currently have no rear brakes because my driver side drum is leaking fluid from the inside. See pics below. My question is should I try to fix the drum? I've never worked on drums before and I've heard there a pain. Or can I swap disk brakes onto this axle like the XJ guys do? Or should I just go to the junk yard and get a ZJ axle with disk brakes and swap that in? Let me know what you guys would recommend and what would be the best route for me to go. I'd love to do an 8.8 swap but I don't have a beefy enough welder. Any help at all is greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

caged

that looks like a leaking wheel cylinder.
10 bux and about an hour of time to fix it.

FMXFreak

Would that be part of the drum? I know that it is brake fluid because I had just filled it up and it all drained out from there.

pwb

buy new brake cylinders and brake kit, i'm sure the brake springs etc. is rusted and when you take them out to change the cylinders they breake/bend. Its not a bad job but its dirty and if the parts are rusted it will take some time, but its not dificult. Buy some tools to, its much easier to remove/attach the springs with correct tools.

FMXFreak

Okay I will order new cylinders and a kit tonightand do both drums at once. What tools would I need though?

Bustedknuckle

Definitely purchase a line wrench set. They look like open end wrenches, but they are contoured to help prevent the screw on the hard brake line from stripping.

(They look like this vvv)




Secure the Jeep by the axle on jackstands, remove the wheel. Remove the drum itself, make sure the parking brake isn't on. You may have to gently tap on the drums' lip on the backside to get it off.

Now you'll be looking at something along the lines of this:





The part I highlighted is the wheel cylinder itself. That's whats leaking. To replace the cylinder itself, should take no more then 10 minutes on average. (I just did both of mine yesterday, it's nothing to be timid of)

You can see both of the shoe retaining springs that meet at the top in front of the wheel cylinder. (NOTE - in this picture, they're already off! MAKE SURE TO MEMORIZE HOW THEY SIT BEFORE YOU TAKE THEM OFF)

The best tool I've found to remove those is a pair of dyke. In my experiences over the years, these are better then pliers, vice grips, needle nose pliers etc.




Using the dykes, grab each spring at about it's mid point, and slowly unclip it from the shaft they meet at.

On the backside of the wheel cylinder, where it meets the housing, you'll see a metal brake line entering the cylinder (that is where the line wrench will come into play) a bleeder screw just above it, and 2 bolts on either side, that hold the wheel cylinder in place.

Using you line wrench, being rather easy, undo the metal brake line. If it's fighting you, use some PB Blaster or WD-40. You have to remember, that fitting hasn't been off in years, and metal brake lines do weaken overtime if the fluid has been neglected.

Once that line is off, remove both bolts (10mm) holding the wheel cylinder in. Grab each brake shoe, and move them apart. The metal arms sticking out of the cylinder arent actually attached, they kinda sit inside a little rubber boot. Once everythings disconnected, simply remove the wheel cylinder, and install you're new one the opposite of un-instillation.

As for the springs, CAREFULLY use your dyke tool to clip them back into place. This WILL take some effort, and wear eye and hand protection. Once everythings back on and secure, put the drum back on, top off the master cylinder, and pump the brakes until the pedal is stiff. Check the level again.

Have someone else pump the brake pedal now, about 10 times, and hold it. Use a wrench, and while they're pushing the brake pedal, open the bleeder screw to let air out of the brake system. They're foot should go to the floor. Don't let them release their foot until you've shut the bleeder completely. Then they can let their foot up and you can repeat the process a few more times. Check the fluid level, and you're set!


*** A COUPLE NOTES ***

This is JUST to replace the wheel cylinder only. Brake fluid will contaminate brake shoes, and its always suggested to replace them if they're saturated in fluid.

Before you run off on your mary way to the parts store, measure the length of your brake shoes!!! Being you have drums, I assume you have a 1993 ZJ. The shoe size will make sure you are given the correct cylinder.

Hope that helps.

FMXFreak

Yes thank you that helped ALOT! I'll crack them open tomorrow and see what I've got to work with. The jeep was parked for 5 years before I got it so I know everything is going to be extremely rusty. Thank you again you have no idea how much that is going to help.

biggoofy

Do one side at a time and make sure there is no brake fluid on the pads or drums.

FMXFreak

Alright will do.

RJMuskett

One trick I learned over the years has been take a cheap flat head screwdriver and cut a notch in the middle of it with a cut off wheel, it mames removing the springs pretty easy, ive tried using the actual tool for drum brake servicing and had no luck. As said before a pair of dykes is also great. And by the way busted knucle that is awesome detailed instructions

Bustedknuckle

No worries, anytime guys. Well, when I have time.

FMXFreak

Just picked up all my new parts!

FMXFreak

Went out and started and realized i had everything except shoes. How did I forget the shoes? No wonder it was so cheap.

gs69350

Good idea. I've always used vice grips on the springs. Most of the hard to get springs have a long section you can grab with the vise grips and muscle em off.

caged

i just use a screwdriver to remove them and put them back on.
it's easy once you get the hang of it.