trucker

I went in a venture of changing differential and pinion shaft bearings.
My first attempt did not work. I had to put all back to have car for Monday.
My is 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo.
I took the front drive shaft and axle out. I try to take the differential out of housing and there when I got in trouble. I could not get it out. The manual state that I need a housing spreader I try to pry out but with no success.
Do I really need the housing spreader or is there other way to deal with.

xjmarc

A spreader works great so I'm told but haven't dropped the 200 or so bucks for one. If it's that tight a pry bar will get it out. Out of curiosity why are you changing the bearings. Pinion bearing tend to die due to lifts and bad drive shaft angles but carrier bearing seem to last forever if you keep good oil in the diff.

trucker

The pinion shaft bearings are gone. To get the pinion shaft bearings I have to get the differential out and while out I my as well change the bearings and seals.

SRT-10Jeep

Good idea, you are there anyways. See if you can rent a spreader from someplace.

89cherokeelimited

Big pry bar works great lol

trucker

Should I replace the crush spacer on pinion shaft?. I have service manual with detail, but it is kind of confusing about the torque. It said that I put the nut and torque until I take the slack out and then stated that I have to put 200lbs on that nut. Is that correct?
Thanks

xjmarc

Actually it takes a bit more. You will need a good impact to get it to crush. Those cheapie 250 psi jobs won't cut it. I have one rated at 400psi and i have to turn the air up to about 125psi to get the job done. Just remember if you crush it too much you have to buy another and start all over. BTW the only place I was ever able to find the things was the dealer but luckily they are cheap.

trucker

One good news is that I finished the front. It does quiet down. The only noise I have now is from rear and only when I accelerate. It was an adventure as I never did it before. I have some mechanical experience, but this was new to me. Taking the differential out was challenge, then pulling and installing new bearing. The axle seal installing. The pinion bearing and shaft. The front pinion shaft bearing easy pop-out, but the rear was a nightmare. At the end of that day, every muscle in my body was hurt. I will take day off and do the rear next. The question I have: before I had noise while accelerating and coasting, but now I have noise only while I accelerate from back. I have to take the rear differential out to change the axle seal (one leaking).
Do I have bad gear or bearing in rear?
I was told that rear have shims instead of crush sleeve. Is that correct?
Thanks

trucker

I do not know of where I went wrong. I assembly the front pinion shaft, but I can not take the slack out. It look like I am running out of thread when I try to torque pinon shaft yoke. The front(smaller) bearing is not seated.
What I had in assembly order: pinion gear, oil sling,rear bearing(large), crush sleeve, front bearing, oil sling, seal, yoke, washer and nut. Am I missing something?. I have nut run all the way to end and still I have a slack like the small (front) bearing is not seated.

xjmarc

Sounds like you crushed the crush sleeve too much time to get another one and try again.

trucker

I was not able to "push" the front bearing deep enough to take the slack out.
Almost feel like I am missing a washer or spacer between front bearing and
yoke. I have 150lbs torque wrench. Could I crush the spacer with that much torque?. I read that it takes 200lbs min to crush it.
Thanks

carolina22

Some futures contracts allow the short position to adjust the location of the delivery and/or the grade of commodity being delivered. The permitted differentials are set in relation to a central location or the par basis grade.

trucker

Just wander of what you are talking about.
The front is fixed, time to go for the rear.