I am having a problem removing my rear rotor. I have new ones to install and not worried about the old ones. The parking brake cable under the jeep where both cables are attached is rusted and stripped. I need advice big time one this one. I really don't want to impact the rotor with a hammer because of possible damage to the bearings. I have sprayed with WD-40. ANY INPUT would be helpful at this time.

 

Here's what I would try. First take off the caliper. Take some emery cloth or sand paper and clean around the center of the axle (big round circle in the center of the rotor), next take a hammer and give a good solid hit between the wheel studs- use a heavy hammer- a small sled hammer works best, try to hit the rotor square. If this does not work then try hitting the outside of the rotor as your turning the axle. I will go about a 1/8 of a turn good hit, turn 1/8 of a turn another hit, etc. It will eventually come loose.

I wouldn't worry so much about your bearings. Think about the abuse they go through when you hit a pot hole. This is the method a shop would use (your just not there to see it done).

 

That center round section is a minimum clearance fit to keep the drum centered on the axle. Any rust in that clearance will cause a problem. You can try soaking it with PB Blaster or WD40 (Blaster works better) to try to loosen it up. You can spray some around the base of the studs to loosen the back of the rotor face where it contacts the axle flange as well. After letting it soak for a while, THEN start with the hammer. You can try heat, but a propane torch is going to do diddly. If you use oxy-act, be very careful not to heat the axle flange too much, you can take the temper out of it and ruin the bearing and seal. The rotor is steel, not cast iron so you won't crack it easily.

If it starts bouncing after to comes loose, it may be hanging up on the e-brake shoes. If you can't retract the shoes with the star wheel, you're going to have to break the hold-down pins. I've been thru this on more vehicles than I care to remember, mostly drum brakes. When people put new shoes on and don't turn the drums, they get a lip worn in the drum that won't pass over the shoes when you try to take it apart. The e-brake on your jeep IS a drum brake, in case you weren't aware of it.

 

Thank you Dave1123 and Minndave13, I used WD-40 and also got a 5 lb hammer. After letting it soak for a day and 3 good wackes it came right off...I finished all of them. The parking brakes were a little tricky, but other than that, no problems. I love this Site.

Thanks,
Rick's

 

If it warms up enough today....than I will replace the rear universal joint.

 

I HOPE you cleaned up that center boss and put a little anti-seize on the axle flange. I forgot to mention that. It helps for the next time.

 

I also did the U joint today. Good thing I did! Take a look at that, not much longer before the U joint came apart.

 

You might want to check the joints on your front shaft also. A double-carden joint is a bit tricky, but not overly so.