bmwe30nut

I registered to ask this question (I've gotten a lot of info in the past on here from simple searches...thanks!).

Daughter's 1997 TSi. (4.0, no automatic climate control, does have AC)...blower fan stopped working.
(this is the replacement for the 1995 4.0 XJ I bought cheap...$400....fixed it up (a whole lot of work), let both daughters drive for several years...then was totaled in a wreck (but protected the younger daughter well).)

This happened once before (about 6 months ago)...in doing the research (some on here...thanks again....) I replaced the resistor with a Dorman unit....worked fine.

Died again (no blower at any speed)...so I ordered another resistor....put it in this AM, but still no joy. I had a few minutes before I had to leave for work:

Tried:
Direct power to the plug for the blower motor...motor works fine.

Pulled 2 fuses (I think one was #20....the manual is gone in the car, and it was kind of hard to read the tiny print on the fuse box cover by flashlight as to which was which). Anyone have a fuse diagram for it? (in case I pulled the wrong ones..one was a 10 amp..second row from the top, closest to the back of the car, the other was the 2nd from the front on the bottom (short) row..a 15 amp).
Tried unplugging the new resistor and putting the old one back on the plug (in case I grabbed the old one as I was replacing it...)...still no joy.

Is there anything else I should check before pulling the climate control stuff off? (any under-hood fuses involved)?

Any way to just replace that switch (I know the AC clutch kicks in...so the panel at least appears to get power).?

Any sources for the switch or whole climate panel?

Thanks!!!...it's definitely getting cold out there and I need to get it fixed relatively quickly...

dave1123

Most times when a resistor fails, it's because the blower draws too much current so the resistor heats up too much. It sometimes melts the plug so the plug has to be replaced. Check the plug for overheated contacts and if that's the case, replace the blower motor as well.

Case in point. When I bought a replacement resistor, the counterman asked me if I needed the plug as well. I said no. Guess what? It turns out my plug was melted and fused to the resistor so tight I couldn't get it apart! Then it got cold outside and the blower started rattling on low before it warmed up. Replaced that too.

BTW the blower is hot all the time and the speed switch grounds thru the resistor taps to control speeds.

bmwe30nut

Thanks...as near as I could see*****, all the plugs (at the resistor and at the motor) looked fine...and the motor seemed to run at 'normal hi' speed instantly when I put battery voltage (I have a cheater wire with a fuse in line just in case to test things like that....I thought a stuck/blown motor when replacing the resistor didn't work....).

I'm going to try to check the relay and see if there's an underhood fuse (and check some other inside fuses) next....

****Edited to add...that was with me kneeling next to the car at about 5:30am with a flashlight before I went to work this AM....

bmwe30nut

Last night after she got home (7pm, so working in the dark)....

I pulled the switch panel. The plug into the fan switch is getting voltage...I tried jumpering it to some of the other plugs...no fan coming on (so I assume it's not the fan switch...). I suppose it could be the middle switch (stuck in the off position...), have to test that one....

Double checked the plugs at the resistor and the fan motor...both are clean, no sign of melting...

40 Amp fuse under the hood is intact.

Still not sure I pulled the proper fuses (no manual to ensure which fuse is which).

I'm wondering if the replacement resistor is good? Any way to check (continuity?...between which poles?).

Any other thoughts?

bmwe30nut

Still not working.

Direct power to the blower works fine.

I'm thinking there may be a bad wire under the dash...but before I pull the whole thing out I want to eliminate all other possibles....

Anyone know how to test the resistor (maybe the replacement is dead too?...the fan never ran when I put it in).

And..anyone know what to jumper in the plug behind the fan switch to see if it's in the switch itself? (I tried, but guessed on the which connections to jumper...)

(So far: Plugs are intact at the resistor and the motor and the switch, new Dorman resistor, 40 amp fuse under the hood is fine, I think I pulled the proper fuses in the cab....just ordered a '97 manual on ebay to be sure...).

dave1123

I don't mean to say you're stupid, but is the mode switch (the one that directs the heat to different places) turned anywhere but off? When it's turned off, it kills the blower motor.

The ground wire from the blower connects to one end of the resistor and the other wires are resistance taps for different speeds. They all ground thru the speed switch.

Fuse 20, a 10amp fuse in the junction box inside the cab controls the heater module dash unit. Fuse #5 in the PDC under the hood is a 40amp for the blower itself.

bmwe30nut

Please, make any suggestions....I actually tried to change that switch position too....but when I put direct power to the blower, and change that switch, it doesn't move the air flow off the defroster area...so maybe it's bad?

I hate to buy a used $80 part and find out it won't work...(they're going for $80 to $90 on ebay).

I'll check resistance across the resistor...I assume the 'input' (ground from the blower motor) goes into the connector that has a direct connection to the other connector ('bridge' outside the resistor body) and the other plugs should have different resistance...

Thanks again....

dave1123

When the mode switch doesn't change from defrost, that's a sign of a broken blend door. Defrost is the default position. At least that's what they tell me.

bmwe30nut

I figured that....but even on defrost for now, it would be an improvement over having no heat...and at this time of year, the defrost is most critical...

Rick Hoover