d1trance

I am have been having issues with my jeep stalling. The stalling issue occured only sometimes and it would start right back up when I restarted car. I checked the codes and a few codes were showing. So I took it to a mechanic and I was told that I needed a new crank shaft sensor, so I had them put in a new one. Not a week later did my car start stalling again. This time my battery drains as it sits over a 24 hour time. I have to charge the battery to restart it. I noticed that when all this occurs that the back passenger power window rolls down on its own. Not sure when this occurs, but it rolls down everytime. I am sure this has something to do with the battery dying and car stalling. Also,the ABS light suddenly came on and stayed on. So back to the stalling, So now when I am driving my car it stalls on any stop, or when I park. When I check the codes no codes come up. To get it to restart requires me to jump start it all over again. Does anyone have any suggestions? Also for what I was told, my battery is but a year old and good but I have been charging it to start it up quite a bit now (approx. 15-20 times in last year). So now my car has sat for about 2 months. I do charge battery and start car about every week. I also had to emergency drive it a few blocks to my daughter's school on a stormy day to pick her up and so it wouldn't stall I had to drive with both feet, one on the break and one on the acelerator (at all times so it wouldn't stall on me). If I let go the acceleerator the car would have stalled and I would have needed to charge it in the middle of the road, if stuck at a stop sign). I am not dumb, I have only done this once, EMERGENCY remember?

Do you think I need a new battery?
Fuses maybe?
Please note: I am a girl, and no guy around to assist me with this. So I am on my own with this. I am smart so throw me what you got.

Bustedback

You have two problems. I think the IAC (idle air control motor) is causing the stalling since the engine will stay running if you keep your foot on the gas. Replace it, don't waste your time cleaning it, it's bad. Second, you have a charging system problem and a possible bad battery. Just because the battery is only a year old does not mean it is good. Get the charging system sorted out and have the battery checked out. Lights and a working radio is not a load test, have it checked with a load tester. A bad alternator can cause the battery to discharge. Even thought it is charging the battery once the engine is running, it could have a bad capacitor that will discharge the battery or it may have a shorted circuit inside. Low voltage will cause some crazy stuff to happen. Get those two problems taken care of and you should be good.

d1trance

Is replacing the IAC (idle air control motor)expensive? How much do you think this will cost me to replace?

Bustedback

About 60 bucks for the part at NAPA. Only two screws hold it in, but they are Torx screws. If you have a T15 Torx driver you'll have no problem.

dave1123

I would just like to add that Bustedback is very knowledgeable and a trustworthy guy. Listen to him. He usually knows what he's talking about. He has bailed me out more than once.

You say you're smart. A bad diode in the rectifier bridge in the alternator will cause a steady drain of power from the battery when the car is shut off, yet seem to function properly when it's running. There is a recent post that supplies a link to a u-tube video that describes how to do a system drain test. A quick way to check it is to disconnect one battery cable and charge the battery. Then connect that cable and see if you get a spark when you do. A very tiny spark is all you should get because the radio and PCM memory don't draw more than 1 amp. If there is a good spark, you have a device drawing power when it shouldn't. That test I mentioned will find the culprit.

I will post that link after I post this because I don't want to loose this one.

dave1123

Okay, it's Parasitic battery draw test- Eric the car Guy at youtube.com/watch?v=KF1gijj03_0

d1trance

Do you think that this is the right item- the IAC (idle air control motor) you recommend to replace?

AIP Electronics BRAND NEW IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE FOR 1998-2004 DODGE AND JEEP
Item# SPM6847371607 | Model# IAC176 | Source: AIP Electronics

Fitment Guide: 1999-2002 Dodge Dakota 2.5L L4 1999-2000 Jeep Cherokee 2.5L L4 1998-2001 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L L6 1998-2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0L L6 1998-2000 Jeep TJ 4.0L L6 1999-2000 Jeep TJ 2.5L L4 2001-2002 Jeep TJ 2003-2004 Jeep TJ 4.0L L6 1998-2000 Jeep Wrangler 4.0L L6 1999-2000 Jeep Wrangler 2.5L L4 2001-2002 Jeep Wrangler 2003-2004 Jeep Wrangler 4.0L L6 OEM Ref#s: 4874373 4874373AB 53030821 89053296 Standard # AC176 Forecast # IAC42 Airtex # 2H1094

$14.78

d1trance

d1trance

I finally was able to follow your instructions to my stalling issues. I ordered the IAC valve and replaced it and replaced the battery with a new one. Thank you it started up perfectly. I drove it around the block and no stalls and I don't even have to have the gas pressed for it to stay running. I do have a concern and wondering if maybe you would have any clue what could be wrong. The check engine light is on, plus when I checked the codes I got code 31. Does onyone happen to know what this could be?

po0dingles

love his vids. I'm watching for my own edification.


So you're not going to look into the alternator? And what about the rear window issue? It sounds to me like that window may have something to do with your draw.

Dave, would having an alternator "tested" reveal any issues concerning the battery drain/draw?

I'm wondering if I should replace mine or have it tested for this very reason. Had a battery go on mine last week and was going to upgrade to a better unit.

d1trance

The rear window was only an issue when I had to recharge the battery and I do not need to recharge the battery anymore since the battery is not draining anymore and it is not stalling anymore. I just have a code come up when I checked the codes and the check engine light is on.

kennzz05

try this

http://bit.ly/1ospi4H or this:

pulled this off another forum


weird, yesterday it was error code 21 (o2 sensor) now its error 31 (canister purger solenoid), anyone know what to do about error 31? I don't have a book in front of me but I beleive that your canister purge solenoid is located near you air filter box. It will have a two wire plug going to it and two , usually siamezed vacuum lines. When you start the Jeep it should be clicking, if not, try tapping on it with a screwdriver, they sometimes just stick. Sorry I can't tell you exactly where it is in your Jeep. All I can picture is the XJ location. All it is for is to allow engine vacuum purge the fuel vapors out of the charcoal canister

dave1123

[QUOTE .Dave, would having an alternator "tested" reveal any issues concerning the battery drain/draw?[/QUOTE]

A bad diode can show up as an AC current in the DC output. Some multimeters have the function of detecting this, or you can take the alternator apart and test each diode in the rectifier bridge individually.