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96 Grand Cherokee Limited 4.0 Help

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Old Oct 15, 2012 | 08:57 AM
  #61  
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Oh, and yes, the growl starts around 35 to 40.
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Old Oct 15, 2012 | 09:26 AM
  #62  
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With luck it's only the hub bearings. Of course it could be both sides.
After I bought my ZJ, it was making a similar noise. I had it looked at by a friend. (Should have done that first). It had bad hub bearings on both sides, and in the rear D44a axle it had bad pinion bearings, bad carrier bearings, worn/damaged ring & pinion gears, and bad wheel bearings. It was my first 4WD vehicle, so I had no idea what I was looking at, except that it looked to be in mint condition, and ran great. Oh well, I loved, it so I spent the money and had it fixed.
He said the damage was probably caused by a bad pinion seal, and letting the axle run low on fluid. Make sure the fluid is at the level of the fill plug on the diff cover.
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 08:44 AM
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As long as its front bearings, I'm ok with that. I can do front hub swaps in my sleep. Rear wheel bearings will really **** me off.
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 08:53 AM
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A shop went through the rear axle for me and replaced everything. My son did the front hubs as I was sick at the time.
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 09:18 AM
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I could probably do rear bearings as long as the inner seals are still good. I just don't have the proper tools to pull the outer seals and the bearings and reseat them correctly. Plus, I paid $250 for this thing. I'm most concerned about screwed pinion or gears than anything.

I have someone who plays with these things coming by today to road test it and see if he can tell me what's going on.
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 09:25 AM
  #66  
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I've never messed with rebuilding axles because I didn't know how. I didn't mind paying for the knowledge/experience so it would be done right the first time.
Now engines, that's a different topic.
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 09:56 AM
  #67  
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That's what's killing me. I can tear that 4.0 apart and put it back together blind folded. And I love that motor. Its a beast and you have to be trying hard to kill it. But when it comes to rears, I have no skills with setting gears and getting the lash correct and all that mess. But I also can't afford to put out the cash to have it professionally rebuilt either.

Thought maybe I could buy some time just swapping the rear out, but it seems that bit me in the *** this time.
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 10:09 AM
  #68  
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Sounds like me. I feel bad for you, but I'm sure you'll get satisfaction from that place.
On my ZJ I didn't consider swapping rears until after the shop had rebuilt my axle and I came on this site. Then I found out I could have installed a Ford 8.8" axle cheaper than they charged me for rebuilding the D44a. I knew very little about Jeeps before joining this site.
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 12:15 PM
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At this point, I'm actually considering keeping my old axle and having it rebuilt. Core charge is only $50 anyway.
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by ol"blue
Sounds like me. I feel bad for you, but I'm sure you'll get satisfaction from that place.
On my ZJ I didn't consider swapping rears until after the shop had rebuilt my axle and I came on this site. Then I found out I could have installed a Ford 8.8" axle cheaper than they charged me for rebuilding the D44a. I knew very little about Jeeps before joining this site.
I found a few places where I could've gotten a rebuilt rear for $450. With all the time and aggravation and gas and tools I have into this, I should've just done that to begin with.
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 02:19 PM
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So I pulled the diff cover, cleaned the mating surfaces, cleaned out the bottom of the pumkin. No metal shavings or pieces whatsoever, but the fluid was low and black as night. I resealed the diff cover and replaced the diff oil. Did the slow figure eights to get everything circulated and road tested. Seems like the growl/hum is gone now. I am still getting a knock under the front end, and still have that pull to the right, but the rear finally seems right.

Now I need to figure out what's going on in the front. I know the shocks are shot, and the alignment is most likely out because of the **** to the left in the steering wheel. I jacked it up and did the wheel rock (up and down, and left to right) and both seem solid. However, when I spin the wheel back and forth (rotate) with the steering wheel lock engaged, I can hear a "clunking" when it hits the stop.
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 09:47 PM
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Does it have CV joints or u-joints at the hubs? Can you tell their condition?
Have you checked the front diff fluid level/condition?
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 08:34 AM
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It has boots, so it is CV. The boots look in tact, so I have to pull the boot to inspect the CV.

I might use the NTB trick to see what's wrong under there.
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 03:29 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by mfisher2112
It has boots, so it is CV. The boots look in tact, so I have to pull the boot to inspect the CV.

I might use the NTB trick to see what's wrong under there.
What is the NTB trick?
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 04:24 PM
  #75  
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Take it to NTB for a front end alignment. They see what's wrong, write up this ridiculous estimate, you tell them you can't afford that, they take it off the lift and you drive away with a list of things that needs to be fixed.
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