94 dies while driving
#1
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Model: Cherokee
94 dies while driving
I have a 94 inline 6 grand cherokee that loses power while I'm driving it no matter what the speed,fast or slow... it idles very low while just sitting.. bout 500rpm and when its running down the road it never gets about 2000rpm... we have replaced the ignition coil, O2 sensor, spark plugs and wires. Check engine light rarely stays on while it dies but I did get it to flash a 32 54... please help as I am sitting on the side of the road as I'm typing this trying to let it cool down enough to get it restarted even though it is not running hot... its running about 190temp
#2
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Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
Code 32 is for an EGR failure, you don't have an EGR valve on the inline six, so it's a bogus code. The code 54 is for cam and crank sensor sync failure. My best guess would the cam sensor is failing once it gets warm. It's a very easy sensor to replace, it's just under the distributor cap and requires no tools to replace it once the cap is off.
#3
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Just replaced the cam sensor... drove for 20 min exactly and it died again... luckily it did start back up and got it home maybe 5 more min... turned it off and restarted it 4 times... any other suggestions? I am nervous it'l keep doing this
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Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
I hate to say this, but it very well could be the PCM. I would suggest having a shop take a look at it and diagnose whats going on, it will be cheaper and less headaches than just throwing parts at it.
#6
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.6L Stroker
It ended up being two problems sending me in circles.
First the cam shaft sensor shaft was not only out of sync, but was 180 degrees from the position on the inside at top dead center. To correct we used a toothpick to line up the outside and inside and placed it relatively close to where it should be. It fired right up and stopped the sputtering and dying with throttle. Second the wire harness for the ignition coil pack was chafed and the pins were bowed out and would lose connection at idle due to the vibration of the engine at low rpms. The fix was simple.. pliers and electrical tape. To diagnose these issues took a week of swapping out sensors and expensive replacement parts. Look at your wiring harness and connections first, then check the alignment for your cam sensor / distributor.
I had tried to replace the CPS, Cam sensor, Coil pack and MAF sensor and even swapped out the computer since a DRB III tool couldn't find anything wrong. The vacuum was sitting at 9 inches instead of around 15-17. Every chrysler tech site that we looked at said to check the timing chain to see if it skipped a tooth, well there is a new timing chain on the jeep now and it wasn't the cause.
I was able to return about $240 worth of the sensors and parts.
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#8
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I'm going to agree with this. Same thing happened to my '03. Mine wouldrun fine until the PCM got warm and then it'd just shut down. Once I replaced it, we'll, once the dealership replaced it it runs fine. Not a cheap fix.
#9
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Thanks for all the suggestions.... crazy thing.. it ended up being a simple fix... throttle body cleaner was all it needed... luckily we tried this before we tried a new computer and saved us the cost on that
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