red04cavy

2004 Grand Cherokee with NV242 transfer case...

It seems to have trouble disengaging from 4 wheel drive once it is in. it seems to go in ok, but it seems to take a while to come out. I only use it in full time mode as I am usually using it when stuck on a grassy hill or something stupid like that.

Does this seem like a fluid issue? Could it possibly be low? How exactly do I check the fluid level (not real sure how to do it)?

Thanks

4.3L XJ

It is just the way they are designed. You can force it in, but there is only a little spring to disengage it. If there is any torque on the axles it will not disengage. Just let off the gas and it will probably go right out. If not you can stop and back up a little.

red04cavy

Now, is there any vacuum involved in the engage/disengage process?

nasonguy

IIRC, no.

I'm kinda a newb to jeeps, so I might be wrong, but I don't believe there is any vacuum used to disengage, it is purely mechanical.

I have this issue with my NP242, which is basically identical (the name changed from NPxxx to NVxxx when a different company took over manufacturing), all I do, if I have the space, just pop it in reverse, back up like 40 or 50 feet, put it in drive, and go.

If I don't have room to back up, I just keep going from D to R and back until I feel it pop out of 4wd. If I don't feel it pop, I'll just floor it really quickly, and if only my rears spin, then I know I'm in 2...

123danno

I have the same problem now with my 4WD. The Answer to remove it from 4WD is to back the Jeep up and hit the brakes. I found that doing this slow and careful does not work.

The Question I have is am I damaging anything while that damn whirling noise is happening as it struggles to disengage ?

Also when I back up and brake hard am I ruining stuff ?

What is the corrrect "REAL FIX" for this Problem Disengaging 4 Wheel Drive.

dave1123

Just shift the trans to neutral. It shouldn't be a problem disengaging or engaging unless the linkage is rusted up. My 97 ZJ and my 2000 WJ never gave me any problems and I shifted "on-the-fly" many times. All I have to do is let off the throttle, shift, and continue driving. The only time you have to stop to shift is to go into 4WD Lo.

The NP/NV 242 is an all mechanical transfer case, no viscious clutch or vacuum involved. It might be sticking if there isn't any fluid in it. There are 2 pipe plugs in the back of the unit. The top plug is the fill plug. It requires a 10 mm allen wrench to remove. It takes Dextron 2 and is full when it runs out of the hole.

Chrysler's New Process Gear made the 242 and others. Chrysler sold the division to the employees and it became New Venture Gear. When they went bust, Magna Powertrain bought it. They just closed the plant and are selling the machinery right now. It's here in Syracuse, NY.

My 87 Chevy 4X4 used the 242 case so you know it is strong. Actually, I believe it was the 231 because it only had 2WD, 4WD, and 4Lo. The front axle had lockout hubs.

123danno

2004 Grand Cherokee with NV242 transfer case...

It seems to have trouble disengaging from 4 wheel drive once it is in. it seems to go in ok, but it seems to take a while to come out. I only use it in full time mode as I am usually using it when stuck on a grassy hill or something stupid like that.

Does this seem like a fluid issue? Could it possibly be low? How exactly do I check the fluid level (not real sure how to do it)?

Thanks

1997 GC Laredo 4 liter 4x4
The Trouble I have is that 4 wd engages fine, the problem is that when I try to disengage. I pull the lever and a whirling sound comes from the Transfer Case or Differential. So I pull off the road and put the car in Park then turn the Jeep off. Restart, put in drive, and still get a whirling noise. Then place in reverse gently and brake, still whirling. Back up fast and brake hard that does the trick the whirling noise disappears.
This is not how this is supposed to operate. The 1997 Jeep GC Laredo should disengage while driving if you let off the gas and then step on the gas.
My transfer case has 3 electrical components on it. There is a hose attached to the top of it. My hose was cracked at the attachment nipple. so I trimmed it and clamped it, nothing changed. I checked the fluid levels in both the differential and transfer case they were fine but neither has been changed since I bought the Jeep (30,000 miles ago).
My question is should I just swap out all the electrical components on the transfer case or is there a specific switch that may be faulty???

kennzz05

its a mechanical case elec componants shouldnt matter
the hose is a vent hose and if cracked perhaps water was allowed to enter id be changing the fluid first
if you are disengaging on anything other than a slippery surface that could be the cause of the disengage issue but as mentioned reversing for 20 feet should make it come out of 4 wheel dosent have to be hard or fast or hard braking


in addition if its a full time system why not just leave it in full time as thats how it was designed to be used

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dave1123

Are you sure it's a 242? There is a round aluminum tag on the back of the case with the number on it.

123danno

The owners manual says do not drive on dry roads with the system in "Full Time 4WD" I don't know which Transfer case it is the aluminum badge on the transfer case is faded. The very knowledgeable tech. at Advance Auto sold me the only electrical component (switch) they sell for that Jeep. It didn't fit my transfer case. So the previous owner may have swapped out the original transfer case. I'll try finding the # of the transfer case when the roads don't have wet snow on them.

Also the hose wasn't cracked above the nipple so no water could have entered the transfer case. I thought it was a vacuum hose so I reattached it with no crack in it.
You should not have to back up 20 feet to disengage the 4 wd. I didn't have this issue until this fall. Normal disengaement should happen while driving forward and taking your foot off and on the gas peddle. It also should not produce a whirling sound while trying to disengage.

dave1123

I think you should reread your owners manual! You shouldn't drive in PART TIME on dry pavement. FULL TIME has a differential in the transfer case to allow the 2 axles to spin at different speeds. PART TIME locks both front and rear axles to drive together so they need slippery surfaces to not bind. If you've been driving on dry pavement in PART TIME, that's the reason it sticks. You can bust the chain in the case very easily.

The number should be stamped into the tag. You may have to use steel wool to clean it enough to read it.

123danno

Ok the manual says under Selec Trac 4x4 FULL TIME Position "Use Selec Trac 4x4 Full TIME year round on all road surface conditions." That's at the last part of the paragraph. I stand corrected. That said I'm currently on unemployment and working 1 week free of charge to prove myself at a new company. SOOO that means no money high gas prices $3.89.9, for regular here. Sooo I want to squeeze every drop of fuel for maximum distance. That means I'd like to use 2 wheel drive as much as possible depending of snow and ice conditions.
With slush all over I still haven't had the opportunity to get under the Jeep and read the # off the transfer case.

dave1123

Personally, I never saw any difference in mpg in my 97 or 2000 weither I'm in 2WD or 4WD. It's still spinning the front diff and shaft in 2WD so the friction is still there. My Chevy truck had locking front hubs and that made a BIG difference. However, that thing was a TANK and I only got 8 mpg! (350, 4X4, 33X12.5 tires, 4.11 gears)

I know where you're coming from on cash. I'm on SSDI and my Jeep is costing me big time on gas, but I love her so I'm living with it. If I drive a lot, I eat less or go without smokes and beer.

123danno

Well yesterday I shifted from 4 wheel drive to 2 wheel and had no symptoms. It worked like a charm. So this problem is intermittent. Maybe it's a faulty electric switch.

dnuccio

it has nothing to do with a switch. Transfer case shifting is purely mechanical.