turnerg1

Ive done some searching and there are way too many different paths to take.
My questions. (my sons jeep actually, I dont drive it)
I just replaced the front tires due to heavily worn outer wall.
Tried to get an alignment but the shop said they wouldnt do it as too much wear. again son went so I dont know full story.
So- along with what I think he has been describing as periodic wobble (maybe or maybe not DW) I went and looked underneath.
How much rotation should there be on the Tie Rod assembly, I know its supposed to move but a very easy full half turn? there is no side to side. I can see the joints rotate simply within the ball.
How much rotation in the drag link assembly. Same rotation, and also very easy. No side to side.
How much front to back movement in the track bar. This vehicle has a track bar that sits in a bracket on the driver side and the bolt is horizontal meaning the track bar moves front to back. it easily slides 1/8 inch or so.If not more.
I havent checked anything else, but when I did replace the rotors and brake pads on the front the wheels seemed solid so I didnt suspect a ball joint.

Input would be appreciated.

Greg

dave1123

Welcome to CF!

I hate to say this, but that entire front suspension needs work. The track bar has horizontal bolts thru bushings that pivot on the bushings in an up and down twisting motion. The bolts clamp the bushing sleeves to the brackets and there should not be any motion front to back.

My 2000 WJ has 230K miles on it and I've had to replace all the control arms, wheel bearings, ball joints, track bar, steering ends, and even the steering box. It good thing is parts are relatively cheap compared to some vehicles. A wheel hub costs about $50 compared to one for a Ford Explorer at $250.

If you need to replace the control arm bushings, don't bother. Buy the entire control arm assemblies. Getting the old bushings out without crushing the arms is difficult.

One good feature of the 2wd is there is enough clearance to use greaseable lower ball joints. The drive axles on the 4wd are too close to the joint to allow grease nipples to be installed. Remember the entire weight of the front end sits on those lower joints.

Check out rockauto.com for parts.

turnerg1

thanks for the response.
i presumed I was going to replace the track bar, the tie rod.
Wasnt sure about the drag link. Still debating that one.
I was interested to know if what I was able to move by hand (and I will reiterate the movement was easy) in rotation of the tie rod if this was normal or showed excessive wear.
I will be buying the parts to do this shortly.

Thanks,

Greg

dave1123

Rotational movement IS indicative of wear. It shows any looseness that might be starting in the joint. New, tight joint ends can not be easily twisted. If you don't replace them, watch them closely because you may soon have to.

Another point to watch is the rear lower control arm bushings. I had some funny feelings every time I had to brake hard. It felt like a happy dog wagging it's tail. Upon inspection, I found the outer cases of the bushing were disintegrating!

After about 175K miles, my WJ was pretty loose. Because I depend on this jeep in my business and as a daily driver, I replaced all 4 wheel hubs and bearings, all 7 control arms, 4 ball joints, track bar, steering link ends, and later after hitting a rock, the drag link and steering box. Oh, and I crushed the steering damper at that time too. It drove like a brand new jeep then!

turnerg1

Ive replaced all the tie rod ends (4). One question, do the grease fitted type come with grease already applied or do I need to grease myself.
The plug came in a bag with the TRE and I couldn't tell looking in the little hole if there was grease in the pocket. My son will be taking to shop for alignment today so wanted to make sure before we drove.

Thanks,

Greg

dave1123

In my opinion, the grease that comes in the ball joints is just enough to keep them lubricated during shipping and keep the seals from drying out. I always grease them after installation. This is especially true with universal joints for the drive shaft. The open joint for the axle end I C-clamp the 2 cups and shoot it before I bolt it on.