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Stock Grand Cherokee Tech. All ZJ/WJ/WK Non-modified/stock questions go here!ZJ (93-98), WJ (99-04), WK (05+)
All ZJ/WJ/WK specific tech questions asked here!
I apologize if it's been covered elsewhere in this site, but I need to know what front differential I have as far as limited slip or not to refill the differential after I just serviced it.
Which engine do you have the, I6 or the V8? How about the transfer case? How "new" is the engine?
There are many different sources of information about your jeep. There's the Haynes Repair Manual for the basic stuff, wjjeeps.com for interesting stuff about different models and options, as well as how to access stuff, A downloadable Full Service Manual from pacificcoastmanuals.com for complete system information with descriptions, diagnosis and test procedures for all the systems. It's 93mbs of compressed pdf files for $7.99 USD and probably the best manual I've ever seen!
You can run your VIN thru many different websites to get your buildsheet which tells you exactly what options and equipment your particular jeep has on it from the factory.
If you have the NP247 transfer case, be aware it takes a special fluid. You'll find an identifier tag in the rear side of it between the drain/fill plugs. It's a 2" round red&silver aluminum tag held on with a rivet. If you have Selectrac NP242, pay special attention to the rear diff because it gets most of the wear from being in 2wd most of the time. Mine whined forever until it blew at 220K miles. She has 230K on her now.
When i scrapped the dirt off the road salt must of digested the paint unfortunately. Do these numbers mean anything?
Originally Posted by dave1123
Which engine do you have the, I6 or the V8? How about the transfer case? How "new" is the engine?
There are many different sources of information about your jeep. There's the Haynes Repair Manual for the basic stuff, wjjeeps.com for interesting stuff about different models and options, as well as how to access stuff, A downloadable Full Service Manual from pacificcoastmanuals.com for complete system information with descriptions, diagnosis and test procedures for all the systems. It's 93mbs of compressed pdf files for $7.99 USD and probably the best manual I've ever seen!
You can run your VIN thru many different websites to get your buildsheet which tells you exactly what options and equipment your particular jeep has on it from the factory.
If you have the NP247 transfer case, be aware it takes a special fluid. You'll find an identifier tag in the rear side of it between the drain/fill plugs. It's a 2" round red&silver aluminum tag held on with a rivet. If you have Selectrac NP242, pay special attention to the rear diff because it gets most of the wear from being in 2wd most of the time. Mine whined forever until it blew at 220K miles. She has 230K on her now.
thank you. I have the 4.0
Last edited by fastrace01; Jan 31, 2018 at 10:31 PM.
Reason: Add photos
My bad! I was thinking it's a Grand Cherokee! Just remember your 4wd is only part time, meaning it should only be used on slippery surfaces. Do a tight turn in 4wd and the front tires will hop, and you put a lot of strain on the driveline. That's probably why the planetary gears in the front diff show abnormal wear. The t/case is an NP/NV 231J (J meaning jeep)
I didn't pay attention. You said it was a Cherokee (XJ), but I assumed it was a Grand Cherokee (WJ) because you posted it in the Grand section. No big deal, I just didn't look closely enough. XJs don't come with a V8.
A little information seeing as how you are new to jeeps. The NP/NV means it was produced by New Process Gear Corp and that was changed to New Venture Gear Corp. Chrysler sold the gear division to a consortium of employees and investors. When they went belly-up, it was sold to Magna Powertrain. The Syracuse plant is now closed. New Process sold a crapload of t/cases to GM and others. It's a strong case for everything but heavy duty trucks.
One other thing you should know. If when your engine was rebuilt, it still has an 0331 head on it, they have a tendency to crack between the #3 and #4 cylinders in the valve area. Take a flashlight or other strong light and look down the oil filler cap. If you see "TUPY", you've got the good one. If you see 0331, beware. If you don't see anything, you've got an aftermarket head.