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2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0 engine swap issues with 2004 JGC engine

Old 08-01-2014, 06:59 PM
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Default 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0 engine swap issues with 2004 JGC engine

I recently swapped the engine from my 2000 JGC Laredo 4.0 I6 with a 2004 JGC Grand Cherokee...
Issue I'm having is Flywheel WILL NOT spin...I used throttle body from '04 because it had two different connections and used the starter from the '04 (changing plug to battery, as needed) BUT when I try to stay the jeep the starter just keeps spinning without spinning Flywheel... There is also a key With a void thru it on dash display. .. I'm at a loss; I have EVERYTHING connected from my original wire harness to EVERYTHING on new'04 engine But Jeep won't start. please HELP with any suggestions
Old 08-01-2014, 07:41 PM
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It's possible the '04 starter drive pinion isn't extending to engage the flywheel. Try using the '00 starter.

The key symbol with the void thru it means the computer isn't recognizing the key as being valid. I know it won't start without a valid key, but I don't know if it will crank without one. Is this the same key you used before the swap?

Okay, I just checked rockauto and the two starters have a different part number suffix. IDK what that entails.
Old 08-01-2014, 08:06 PM
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Hey Dave; Yeah I checked on the starter issue immediately and like you said; AutoParts Geek had different part numbers for starters as well...So I went to the boneyard and snatched a 2004 Starter and although the body was a bit shorter the "teeth" were same. I have tried both staters with Same Results; starter just spins & clicks. As for the Key issue; I'm using my original key from the 2000 JGC Laredo; the engine I installed was from a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I forgot to mention that the engine came from a 2x4 and my Jeep is a 4x4. Don't know if that can be part of issue But assumed that those would just be transmission issues If anything at all. Could I have missed something? I reattached the transmission without any issues; flywheel did manually spin w Breaker bar & socket, to allow for torque bolt installation... and assumed I did everything correctly BUT STILL WONT START... Any other suggestions?
Old 08-01-2014, 08:28 PM
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Has anyone ever had any issues with Engine compatibility with the 2000 Year Models? The head casting is same (0331) with other changes being Throttle body Wiring In which changed without issue and Oil filter mounting is little different But engine went in without any issues...I have racked my brain! I DO NOT want to remove head and valve cover to manually check piston compression and operation BUT am puzzled as to why it won't at least crank...
Old 08-01-2014, 10:16 PM
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Do you still have your '00 starter? The overall length of engagement may be different. I had a problem with my '67 Camaro 350 because the length between the standard shift starter and the automatic starter was about 3/8 inch. The automatic starter was shorter and tore up the teeth on my flywheel. Which torque converter flex plate are you using? You would think they'd be the same, but maybe not.

The last time I had a Mopar motor apart was 1965, so I'm not current by any means, but back then the starter mounted on the bellhousing. I think your problem has to do with the depth of the mounting to the flex plate. In other words, the gear is extending and not meshing with the teeth. I think you need a 2000 starter. You may need to recharge your battery to make sure you're throwing the starter gear out far enough.

Last edited by dave1123; 08-01-2014 at 10:23 PM.
Old 08-02-2014, 01:25 PM
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You used the original flywheel and starter from the old engine?

It seems the eng wont rotate once the bellhousing was tightened down? Are you absolutely sure the torque convertor was fully seated into trans pump?
Old 08-02-2014, 07:01 PM
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I Did go back and use the original starter from my 2000 and got same result.
Either the starter isn't engaging flywheel to cause it to properly rotate OR as suggested
the torque converter isn't seated property into transmission pump...

I'll try taking bolts out of Bellhousing and releasing torque converter from engine
... Keep y'all posted
The flywheel bolt has had So Much stress that it is about to break if I continue to try and soon it manually. I assumed the inside of cylinder head and pistons perhaps could have gotten lil rust on then So I shot a bunch of PB Blaster into each cylinder; CANNOT Imagine that would cause flywheel to not spin BUT stuck now...It should spin once I release torque& transmission; Let's hope!
Old 08-03-2014, 12:09 AM
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Ok; I now have went back and took bolts out of torque converter and it easily spins with my fingers... That Freed up the flywheel almost allowing for a full rotation.
However it still will not rotate ALL the way in a complete 360° circle; it rotates 9/10 of the way. I marked the crank and after spinning, am left with only about an inch to get a complete 360° rotation. So is the transmission causing the blockade? Should I remove tranny& see if I get a full rotation? What else could possibly cause this? I even took valve cover off and ALL the rockers and push rods are moving up and down without any problem...
STUCK AGAIN! Dont want to have to completely remove engine block from tranny if I don't have to...it was a ***** getting it lined up and bolted in first place
Old 08-03-2014, 12:14 AM
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... Therefore it is stopping just before the timing mark on crank; (Top Dead Center); an inch is ALL I NEED!

HELP
Old 08-03-2014, 08:26 AM
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I have a stupid question. Was this engine running before you got it? If the engine won't turn a complete 360*, something is wrong internally.

Also, if the converter is installed properly, it should spin freely with the bellhousing torqued up tight. As a matter of fact, there should be a little clearance between the converter and the flexplate. This is necessary so the converter doesn't press on the pump drive. Some of these converters have two drive slots and some have two drive flats. Are you using the original converter?
Old 08-03-2014, 04:40 PM
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That is a Great Question; I got the engine out of the 2004 from a junkyard.
The jeep was totaled w only 44,000 miles on it. However, I did take my compression kit out to boneyard and each cylinder gave over 120 lbs on the display... So it did rotate in a complete 360° at the boneyard; just didn't think it would lock up in lil over two weeks or so
b4 I got around to install it. The torque converter is freed up now But like I said im ONLY less than an inch to get full rotation. Could putting the nipple of tranny into engine cause the "locking up?" I'm almost to the point of starting completely over BUT REALLY DON'T WANT TO IF I CAN AVOID! Or could the compression test fooled me into thinking motor was good?
Old 08-03-2014, 06:09 PM
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I'd back the trans off and reseat that torque convertor into the pump drive.

Again, check the flywheels for any variance in height.
Old 08-03-2014, 06:54 PM
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I hope you didn't break the ears off of the pump gear.
Old 08-13-2014, 02:56 AM
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ALRIGHTY EVERYBODY:
The problem was internal...after trying everything; I got a pin head camera and saw a big cHunk Of porcelain from a spark plug. Someone had broken one of the old spark plus when removing and broke it somehow in the number 1 cylinder...blew it out w compressor and little double sided tape and YES THE CRANK NOW SPINS FREELY...

NOW to new issue... fuel pump will not engage and as I said before the key With the void symbol is appearing on dash instrument panel. The key is from the same jeep my 2000... would changing engine make jeep not recognize key?
HELP ALMOST GOT HER BACK ON ROAD
Old 08-13-2014, 10:02 AM
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Did you use the original PCM or the '04? It's possible your jeep has "forgotten" the key code somehow. How to fix this I haven't a clue.

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