03 overland fuse box replacement
#1
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03 overland fuse box replacement
Hey guys,
so my overland was having electrical issues and we found the problem was the brass threaded insert in the fuse box under the dash was missing so I couldn't tighten it down all the way. So in the bind I was in I used gorilla glue and tapped it in until snug. So a few months down the road and the issues will happen here and there like if I go over a bump so I'm guess it's starting to wiggle in there. What do you guys think my options are? Think I can get one from a junkyard? Or do I need to go to the dealer and have them figure out how to do it right? If I could find the exact same model, I figure I could take the wiring block and fuse box and splice it in then bolt it up. How off am I in my thinking?
patrick
so my overland was having electrical issues and we found the problem was the brass threaded insert in the fuse box under the dash was missing so I couldn't tighten it down all the way. So in the bind I was in I used gorilla glue and tapped it in until snug. So a few months down the road and the issues will happen here and there like if I go over a bump so I'm guess it's starting to wiggle in there. What do you guys think my options are? Think I can get one from a junkyard? Or do I need to go to the dealer and have them figure out how to do it right? If I could find the exact same model, I figure I could take the wiring block and fuse box and splice it in then bolt it up. How off am I in my thinking?
patrick
#2
Old fart with a wrench
That junction block has 2 large square connectors that have bolts to secure them. As long as you transfer all your fuses to the same locations in the new one, it should work fine. The fuse sockets are numbered and the different functions are built into the harnesses. Just be careful not to bend any pins in the connectors. What I'm saying is the block itself is universal for the WJ and any difference between models is in the wiring. The same goes for the relays.
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Do you think if I get it disconnected, get the bolt out of the wiring block and run a bolt all the way through and tighten from the back that would work? The head sheeted of the nut as well
#4
Old fart with a wrench
IDK unless I had it in my hand. All I know is when I went to change my flasher unit, there was no finger room behind the steering column brace, so I started removing the junction block to lower it, then thought about screwing up the connections by taking it apart, so I didn't. It took me about 45 minutes of finger work the get the new one started into the socket. The old one came out with channel-lock pliers. BTW, the flasher has 3 logic circuits in it and 9 pins.
Last edited by dave1123; 12-27-2016 at 03:25 PM.
#5
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Oh yeah I've replaced that already it's definitely a pain. I'm just wondering if drilling through it will mess anything up behind where the wiring harness bolts in. Good to know they are universal though
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Year: 2004
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Patrick, a better Idea would be to donate the whole truck to me as a spare part rig.... You know... I could rebuild the drive train slowly and drop the nice 4.9 L crank in my 4.0 or possibly shoe horn in a Hemi with a 5 or 6 speed and the Quadra trax 2 in behind it... Hummmm (just joking)
I would be real careful about drilling through the fuse block to install a through bolt, but it does sound like a great idea to look into as a problem solving step... I wish I had a spare block sitting around to rip apart to dig out your answer.
I would be real careful about drilling through the fuse block to install a through bolt, but it does sound like a great idea to look into as a problem solving step... I wish I had a spare block sitting around to rip apart to dig out your answer.
#7
Old fart with a wrench
Just a humorous aside! It's not a truck, it's not a car, it's a JEEP! I personally have a problem calling them a truck after a long history of driving pickups. LOL! Now I'd be totally happy with a Comanche!
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#8
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Since they are universal, I think I'm gonna go with the junkyard route. I just gotta figure out how to get the sheered bolt out of the wiring block and get a new one in there, then its problem solved. Thanks for the input guys!
Smoothride it is just my beater, I'd be willing to sell it haha.
Smoothride it is just my beater, I'd be willing to sell it haha.
#9
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Again, If you had one in your hand to examine and experiment with, it all will become clear.
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I've definitely fiddled with it. it make take some creativity to get the bolts from the wiring blocks. It seems like they are held in there with something, I guess so you don't lose them when you have to take this thing out. I really wish they would come out easily though. it would be a simple fix at that point. I almost just want to brush glue on the sides of it and tap it in. The ONLY issue is it not being tight, so it's kinda frustrating.
#11
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Year: 2004
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Ok Dave... I call it "The Jeep" here at home... At work we just work on "Trucks". After 8 and a half years of modifying them all vehicles are devided into three categories... Cars, Trucks, and minivans... Since we don't modify cars........
#12
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
As do I in my 69 yrs. and have modified them all, it's a Jeep or SUV and a real one at that not an imposter. The 04 WJ's were the last of the real 4x4 Grand's from 05 on they did not have as HEAVY DUTY suspension or differentials in them.