posterboy7596

I'll give you the whole story with apologies for length. I had the classic hard shifting, shifting at too high rpm etc about a year ago. I removed the pan and replaced the filters and refilled the trans. All was good until about 2 weeks ago, and it started it again. I put some more fluid in it because I had originally left on the lower end of full. It drove pretty well for about a week. Yesterday it started again. I checked and the fluid looked low (can't find any leaks) so I put in about 1/2 a quart and it drove the rest of the way home fine.

Headed to work this morning and the problem is back. I've seen a lot of mention of the throttle valve tv cable adjustment, but unless I'm looking at the wrong thing I don't see one. My next plans are the belt adjustment I've read about, and fixing my o2 wiring that is evidently sometimes a problem.

Am I missing anything? Does the 4.7 have that cable and I'm just not properly identifying it?

Thanks!
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4.3L XJ

Here is what the FSM has to say

VEHICLE IS DRIVABLE
(1) Check for transmission fault codes using DRB
scan tool.
(2) Check fluid level and condition.
(3) Adjust gearshift cable if complaint was based
on delayed, erratic, or harsh shifts.
(4) Road test and note how transmission upshifts,
downshifts, and engages.
(5) Perform stall test if complaint is based on sluggish
acceleration. Or, if abnormal throttle opening is
needed to maintain normal speeds with a properly
tuned engine.
(6) Perform hydraulic pressure test if shift problems
were noted during road test.
(7) Perform air-pressure test to check clutch operation.

GEARSHIFT CABLE
(1) The floor shifter lever and gate positions
should be in alignment with all transmission PARK,
NEUTRAL, and gear detent positions.
(2) Engine starts must be possible with floor shift
lever in PARK or NEUTRAL gate positions only.
Engine starts must not be possible in any other gear
position.
(3) With floor shift lever handle push-button not
depressed and lever in:
(a) PARK position—Apply forward force on center
of handle and remove pressure. Engine starts
must be possible.
(b) PARK position—Apply rearward force on center
of handle and remove pressure. Engine starts
must be possible.
(c) NEUTRAL position—Normal position. Engine
starts must be possible.
(d) NEUTRAL position—Engine running and
brakes applied, apply forward force on center of
shift handle. Transmission shall not be able to shift
from neutral to reverse.

There is no throttle cable. This tranny is extremely electronic. It has its own computer and a zillion wires for it. Also if you haven't done it already, it can be reprogrammed to a 5 speed.

posterboy7596

I think I'm looking at something electric/computer. I didn't get a chance to fix the o2, but I left the negative cable off overnight. This morning it drove almost perfectly. I'm off Tues/Wednesday so I'll dig back in then. Once the o2 is fixed I'll get somewhere to check the codes and I'll definitely run through that list.

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turnerg1

if you can check the transmission solenoid. My sons went bad and he had similar symptoms, wouldn't shift at right rpm, hard shifting, etc. I replaced with a rebuilt (cant remember the person that makes these upgraded solenoids).
Works perfect.

Greg

posterboy7596

Thanks for that. I'm going to look up how to do that!