jamesg2002

OK, 00' grand cherokee loredo i6 4.0, initial problem i was addressing was camshaft position sensor code kept popping up even after changing the sensor and the truck would die sometimes at operating temp. also after reaching operating temp would not crank back up until cooled off.

so like i said i changed the cmp and during i removed the shaft that drives it from the block, i think it got moved while it was out. but i put it back and cranked her up. it ran for a second roughly and died, this happened about three times. so i went and turned the sensor a little to see if i could get it back in time. tried again and it ran really rough for about three seconds and shut off.

after the last crank, the starter would only clicko once and no crank. battery is still good, starter is gettin power and solenoid is gettin power when key is turned. tried hammering on starter with no luck. tried to roughly resync the cmp using a method found in a forum on here still wont even try to crank.

i thought maybe it locked up from the timing being off so i tried to turn the damper at the front of the engine and it turns, but as soon as i put pressure on it i can hear the starter fall back like it was stuck on the crank till i took the pressure off.

i really need help with this as my jeep is my wife and i's only transportation right not. anyone have any ideas please feel free to throw 'em out there. i will romove starter tomorrow and see if i can take it to autozone to have it tested, hopefully that's it not somethin way worse.

Bustedback

Have you load tested the battery with a voltmeter? Head lights coming on means nothing, you need to see what kind of voltage drop you're getting while cranking the engine over. If the voltage drops bellow 9.6 volts when loaded, the battery is junk.

jamesg2002

i have looked for the tell tale signs of a bad connection/ bad ground like gauges bottoming out when trying to start truck, i have watched the voltmeter in the truck and no signs of significant voltage drop when trying to start.

jamesg2002

ok, i load tested with my multimeter and the battery is good. so i have the starter pulled off and gonna bring it to autozone to have it tested. hope i get some resolve soon i need a break. lol

nukinfuts29

Spare the trip to autozone and just test it yourself with wire and you're battery

jamesg2002

tested good. im about to go reinstall and test how much voltage its getting again.

tiwvr1

if timings off really bad it will do the same thing. I am not sure what the cam sensor looks like on these, never done one. But I know the trick we use to use is pull number 1 plug out, put a screwdriver or something long down the plug hole, and turn motor by hand at crank till the screw driver is at TDC (highest point of the piston) Then make sure the rotor (I think similar to crank sensor) is pointed at the number one plug wire on the cap.

jamesg2002

ok seems like the battery is goin out, i got a charger from my buddy and hooked it straight to the terminals while they aren't on the battery and it cranks so i'm guessin the battery just did'nt have enough amperage. anyways, new day so i'm gonna role with it like that for now till i get it runnin then worry bout the battery. thanks for the post tiwvr1 but the cam sensor doesn't have any tabs like a usual destributor or anything to tell which piston should be firing, just one shutter that passes in front of one magnetic sensor. but there is a way to time it in the same fasion and yes it involves setting at TDC #1 and then advancing about 5 degrees so thats where i'm going to start. got my fingers crossed!!

jamesg2002

the battery along with resyncing the fuel injector timing with the camshaft sensor worked.

anyone trying this remember when starting after this adjustment give it alot of throttle while starting. also if having problems setting the sensor position, make sure the shutter is lined up with the toothpick while at TDC #1. and anyone with a 2000 grand cherokee loredo 6i 4.0, i never found the timing degree scale for the harmonic balancer, i set it with the one mark on the pully and where the scale would start. if anyone else has had a problem finding the timing degree scale please let me know.

i still have to get it on a scanner to make any small correction as to how many degrees the sensor drive might be off. and i still have to see if my dying problem persists.

aside from that, once i got it goin it's runnin great, the oil pressure was operating right at 80 now runnin slightly below. and the temp. was usually runnin 210, now just under.

even as a deisel mechanic for 8 years, i learned alot as for my general knowlegde of mechanics.

I LOVE THIS ****!!!