Snajo

Amplifier and speaker wiring install:

First, I recommend cleaning battery terminals and wire/chassis/alternator connections. The chassis ground is a pain to remove. In hindsight, I'd make a new ground before trying to remove and reinstall that one again. There's probably an easy way to crack that nut, but I haven't found it.

Second, I suggest figure out your wiring routes. It's better to do this before drilling holes and running wires. Next time I'll sketch out a plan so I can better keep power and signal wires separate.

Third, drill holes and figure how you'll protect your wires. I used grommets and electrical take to build up the wire insulation for a tight fit.

Finally, run wire. I ran the hot wire down the far passenger side of the cab and under the back seat to the amp under the driver side rear seat. The RCAs, remote on line, bass adjust line, usb ports, and AUX input were run from the head unit behind the HVAC controls, under the center console, and along the transmission tunnel to the amp. (The AUX and USB ports are currently coming out of the console through the parking brake lever opening. Later I'll drill holes in the console storage area for proper mounting.) Speaker wires were run along the far driver side of the cab to the amp. The sub wire is running under the carpet to the passenger fender well until I get the rear seat installed and figure a safe route.

If I had thought about this before, I would have run the passenger speaker wires higher through the dash, since they come pretty close to the 4 gauge power wire currently.


The power wire runs through the firewall behind the oil filter. There may be better places. This is the one I used. The only other hole I drilled was for the power wire to get through the bracing under the rear seat. Again, rubber grommets, electrical tape, and flexible wire conduit were used to keep the wire safe.

tssguy123

Are you sure the issue is the exhaust? I thought running rich/lean would be caused by the o2 sensors... which, yeah, are part of the exhaust but don't require a full replacement.

Anyway, this build is awesome so far. Amazing attention to detail with the sound deadening material and carpets!

Snajo

It might be good to replace the O2 sensor. I try to leave mechanical parts to a local mechanic. They do a good job on fixing broken stuff, but not so much on tune up.

I'm getting about 15mpg mixed city highway and it smells like it runs rich. Richer than my 2004 GTO in any case. No codes on the odb-ii. Anyway, think its worth it to just replace the o2 or just clean it? 126k and Im guessing it is the original part.

Oh and is it common for water to drip out of the muffler? I poked at the wet spot with a pick
, but didn't find a hole. Heh.

PocketsEmpty

Very nice work so far! Great job. Those LEDs look perfect to me. which ones did you go with?

tssguy123

I was told by a reputable member that the O2 sensors are 100-150k replacement parts. They're very cheap, might be worth it to change. I would. You can easily, easily do it yourself. NTK is the OEM part and what you should use.

Snajo

I bought the LEDs from Superbrightleds.com

Don't tell my wife, but I didn't like some of them, so I ordered a variety of colors and sizes from china. I should have enough to do three 97+ xjs. I want to get a spare gauge, hvac, and switch panel so I can bench test without having my jeep apart.

If all goes well I will have a set or two to sell. This includes all replaceable interior bulbs as well as an led strip to replace the lame *** under hood lamp.

And thanks for the O2 Sensor info. I'll replace it when I finish the interior.

Snajo

I wish I could rename this thread. Originally my goal was to make the Jeep feel as much like a new XJ as I could and better in other ways. My goal has shifted to simply making it as good as I reasonably can.

Since the last post... ZJ seats are in. I like how comfortable they are and I have plenty of overhead clearance (I'm 6'0"). I don't like how low the seat backs, as my shoulders rest at the top of the seat back. The head rest is nice, but again, too low. I'm going to keep the seats while I find a suitable set of replacements... I like the seats in my wife's 2014 Focus, but first things first.

The Overhead Console is in and works great, even the temperature. It feels a bit loose... like it should be screwed in place somewhere towards the middle/back. If anyone has any suggestion there, I'm all ears. In any case, it's going on my to-do list.

The sound system is still pissing me off. There is static in the tweeters until the volume is turned up... This is after all the troubleshooting, even replacing the amplifier I thought was bad.

The cruise control works great. It's nice and definitely worth it. Eventually it might feel worth the $200+ I spent on parts.

I'm having the box I got from xjdoubletap (changed his name again, btw) reupholstered. I expect to get it functionally installed Monday and cosmetically installed next weekend.

The tweeters are still sitting on the dash. I'm undecided on an install for them... I want to get the system working before I decide on a mounting plan.

The orange strip is coming off of the odometer soon. I'm going back to stock with it because #1, it's too dark and #2, it'll match the overhead console readout better.

After the O2 sensor, I'm going to work on a bracket for the head unit. It's too loose for my liking.

Have I mentioned that I hate how cheap the controls feel on every aftermarket unit I've used. I can't believe how cheap the deh-80prs feels (and looks) given it's cost and popularity. I don't see how Nokia can sell $25 cell phones with firm buttons that can be used largely by feel while $350 car audio units are comparatively ****ty. Hell, I bet Microsoft could do better, and on their first try!

I believe I have all my direct from china LEDs in. If I can get the O2 sensor and the radio bracket completed, I'll try some of these new LEDs.

Snajo

Wow! O2 Sensor was pretty easy to replace and the effects were immediate. I can't say yet how much my gas mileage will change, but it no longer smells like gas fumes while idling. Typically I get around 14-15 mpg regardless of whether I'm driving highway or city. It is stock besides the interior.

Snajo

http://www.jeep.com/webselfservice/j...527R%2527%2529

I looked up my VIN here and the report has "Lock-Up Torque Converter" listed under optional equipment. Would that explain the whine that the rear end makes around corners? My acts just like an open differential though... passenger rear wheel and driver front wheel get power in snow/mud.

BrewinXJ

I am no audio expert but I would say that if your having squealing its typically due to a ground somewhere or lack of a good ground. I have changed several head units and swapped out speakers and have ran across this many times and I usually add an additional better ground or just use the one I have in a better spot. \

What LED's did you get from superbrite? I have read several threads and have read multiple options. I'm just curious to know what you used. I have a 98 sport.

Whiplash

lock-up TC is tranny related, not differential
makes it so there's 0 slip between motor and tranny..usually comes on in 3rd and again in OD

Snajo

For my 2000 dash, I used 5x 74 leds in cool white. http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...edge-base/228/

At first I wasn't too sure, but after driving with them, I think they look great. There are cheaper ones for sure. I have a bag of 60x 74 LEDs from China in assorted colors for the price I paid for these five... just need to get around to trying them. Surprisingly, I don't feel like a dimmer is necessary for these. My biggest concern before starting the LED project was that they'd be too bright and I'd be unable to effectively dim them. Turns out it just isn't a problem.

Thanks! That makes sense.

Whiplash

NP, that's why we're all here ain't it??
k, most of us anyway lol

thanx for the link for the build sheet!! was 1000x easier than getting the one for my '13 Ram

Snajo

I haven't done much to the Jeep since completing the interior. I'm still unhappy with the ZJ seats, but they're in there. The stereo system recently started flaking out on me. I'm hoping it's a bad wire somewhere, but I suspect the head unit is bad. I honestly don't think I'm going to get any major work done with the Jeep until I sell my GTO. It's a tough car to part with though, so it might be a while.

Right now I'm working on replacing my oil pan. When I came home for leave during my last deployment I had a mechanic (a real mechanic, not even jiffy lube) change the oil for me. We'll, this weekend I tried to remove my drain plug and the damn thing just spun for me. Basically, my weekend ended with me drilling a hole through the pan to get the oil out and fighting to get to the two rearmost bolts to remove the pan. No luck... the pan is still in there. I'm planning on fighting it a bit more this weekend. If that doesn't work, I'm buying an angle grinder and cutting the pan enough to get to those bolts.

While I'm in there, I'm going to attempt a rear main seal replacement and throw in a new oil pump. The stock on should be fine with a 128k on her, but it shouldn't hurt. I generally do the same with water pumps when I replace radiators.

I also ordered a ruffstuff battery box since the stock plastic tray broke. I've been meaning to do that for a while since my battery is just sitting on the tray.

Once I get her mobile again, I'm going to rip into the interior:

I want to take care of two rattling/vibrating panels - passenger door panel and a panel above the cubby hole sub.

I'm going to better seal the large hole in the doors to get better sound from the mids in the doors as well.

I also need to drill a hole in the center console area to place the bass volume ****. USB ports and aux inputs are going inside the console storage box. I just need to drill the holes.

I still need to replace the covers that go over the uppermost seat belt bolts. It might not seem like much, but I've thought about my heading hitting one of those bolts with the plastic cover removed. I don't think it would end well for my brain box.

Lastly, I'm going to install a set of interior lights that I've been selling to so many on the forums here. I have LED instruments, but not like the sets I've been selling. Anyway, I'm probably going to go with blue, even though my radio display works best in green. It won't match the blue, but it's not that important.


So yeah... ever delayed: fresh paint, lift, replacement seat fabric for the classic seats I pulled, and rear disc break conversion. The Jeep is running hot, so I may do a radiator swap this summer if it starts overheating. My last attempt ended poorly because I failed to verify the new-in-box all metal radiator was visually good before removing the old cruddy stock metal/plastic one. I ended up putting a stock replacement in. It's already hitting high 90s and low 100s here in El Paso. I'm going to have problems, I'll be having them soon.

I did spend some time trying to make sense of my front suspension while I was on my back fighting the oil pan. I think I could do a suspension swap myself... with some patience and probably some new tools.

I also bought a pair of maintenance ramps and ordered a torque wrench so I can get the oil pan bolts tightened correctly. I really want to avoid leaks.

Squelchtone

Nice write up man, I really dig the sound proofing! Say, I'm about to take apart my headliner and redo it with new material and spray glue I got on ebay, and I'm wondering what the steps are to remove the overhead console, I have the full size one like in your pics. Thanks for any tips.

Squelchtone