Thanks everyone...it was a love/hate relationship for a while towards the end.
There were many days where I felt all gung-ho about working on it...only to walk into the garage and not even want to look at it.
Getting it on the trail reminded me that it was all worth it...and that next time I'm just going to have someone build me a roller
I wouldn't even consider doing this again unless I had a plasma CNC, TIG, a nice notcher, and a few other things. Otherwise I would just go with of the shelf components like Artec Trusses, someone's fuel cell mounts, etc. to save me a buttload of time.
It was small stupid things that I did...like putting 7 hours into my battery box since I didn't want to buy one that I could slap myself for now.
Once I get back to working on this thing I want it DONE done. I've got a coolant leak I need to fix, but I need to drop the belly UHMW and a crossmember to get to it. I've got a bit of electrical work to get done, but that's not too much of a PITA to do luckily...just tedious.
The biggest thing left is the panels. I need to get them finished up and painted. Then this thing will be looking proper and sexy
There were many days where I felt all gung-ho about working on it...only to walk into the garage and not even want to look at it.
Getting it on the trail reminded me that it was all worth it...and that next time I'm just going to have someone build me a roller
I wouldn't even consider doing this again unless I had a plasma CNC, TIG, a nice notcher, and a few other things. Otherwise I would just go with of the shelf components like Artec Trusses, someone's fuel cell mounts, etc. to save me a buttload of time.
It was small stupid things that I did...like putting 7 hours into my battery box since I didn't want to buy one that I could slap myself for now.
Once I get back to working on this thing I want it DONE done. I've got a coolant leak I need to fix, but I need to drop the belly UHMW and a crossmember to get to it. I've got a bit of electrical work to get done, but that's not too much of a PITA to do luckily...just tedious.
The biggest thing left is the panels. I need to get them finished up and painted. Then this thing will be looking proper and sexy
CF Veteran
I remember when I first found this on NAXJA. Spent days reading and rereading every post hoping to learn something. You have a lot of dedication to spend 6 years on it. Hopefully mine doesn't last that long.
So I've got a couple of updates...
If you want to see everything...check out Pirate
A long overdue update.
Life took it's toll, so the buggy didn't get near as much attention as it needed until recently.
I was traveling (essentially living) in Georgia until the end of 2015, when I resigned from the company I'd been with since pretty much I graduated college. Gotta say, it was like leaving a family. Luckily, it's still a big but small industry, so we keep in touch to say the least :laugh: my ~8 days home a month usually went to working on house stuff, as to expected after buying a first house.
My commute went from 1500ish miles to ~3 miles door to door as of January 1st. It's been something I've never had, and being able to go home (~7 minute drive) for lunch if I choose is awesome.
I'm working with an old coworker of mine (technically my boss) from the same company, but now work in the public sector at sort of a "subsidiary company" of Colorado State University. The differences between private and public are...interesting.
being home has allowed me to start being able to spend time on what I'd like to...finally!
So, as of when I parked her when we moved, I had some issues to address:
1.) Tranny pan slight leak
This has been a wee bit of a pain :laugh:
I used The Right Stuff, and decided to go back to a rubber gasket this go around. I added another bolt (drilled and tapped the trans) on the passenger rear corner of the pan. For some reason it just wasn't wanting to seal there. As well, the three bolts I was using to connect the D300/NP231 shifter to, I just don't think were up to the task 100% with the amount of lateral force they were seeing. So, I drilled those holes out to 1/4" and used some Gr8 through bolts. This should hold a heck of a lot better, not putting the same rotational torque on the threads.
2.) Tranny was overheating per the gauge.
Well, turns out the tranny was fine (though i'll take it being the gauge any day)
I went through the gauge, and finally decided to just do a boiling water test. used a digital thermometer to compare against, and the gauge was consistent at reading 50* high. Nothing like getting a bad gauge out of the box.
I ordered up another of the same model, and verified it was accurate. It reads ~10* low, but I can live with that.
And here I thought Autometer was supped to be some great stuff.
3.) Coolant leaking
I went through and replaced a couple of flex hoses, and got rid of the worm clamps and moved most of the connections to T-Bolt clamps. On the bottom two hoses, I also added some RTV before sliding them on as a little extra insurance. She looks to be leak free now, and pending no more overheating issues, should be good to go.
4.) Overheating.
This was never the rigs fault, but mine. Just as I was wrapping up Holy Cross last year, the rig overheated. I had seen the DC controls controller stopped working for some reason, and thus flipped my rocker switch to bypass. Well, the bypass put the fan on high. I think this ended up being to much for the relay (though it was an 80A), and caused some melting of things:
So, I changed things up. The DC Controls controller is on an 80A relay now (it wouldn't need one if I didn't have it wired up to a switch), and I switched the bypass to the low setting on the fan. The low setting will keep the fan at 210* all day long, so no need for a high bypass.
I apparently had the hardware on the controller on wrong. I needed to add two brass nuts between the ring terminals and the controller, as these were what kept the transformers tight. Once I had that done, it worked again. I need to section off the front and back of the radiator, as I believe the air flow is causing too much heat dissipation from the temp probe. I've got the controller set at it's lowest setting (configured for 160* T-Stat), and it keeps the rig at 210*.
5.) No torque converter lock up.
This should be solved (and from a test drive appears to be).
My torque converter wasn't locking up from what I had guessed was the missing brake light switch sense. Looking through the FSM wiring diagram, it is a path to ground when off, and break the ground connection when hit. So, I wired up a relay using the output of my pressure brake switch, with the relay connection being grounds. So, I hit my brakes, and it brakes the ground connection. All other times, it's wired normally closed to ground.
6.) Fuel leak.
In my brilliance of the initial install of the fuel pump, I managed to forget to install the copper washer on one end. Well, that in turn over time made the pump leak slightly from that connection. So, I decided to go ahead and order another pump to put in, and have the original as a back up. Got it all installed with copper washers and some thread sealant (with some expensive stuff I got for free on a client site) and it's leak free.
Once I got all of this buttoned up, I pulled her out and took her for a drive. Took a few to remember my triple stick pattern, but got it back after a little playing around. She drove great, and my trans temp from the bit of a little drive I did never got above 150*.
However, as my build thread should be called...two steps forward...one step back: One of my ORI's (Driver's Front) is hydrolocked
So, I'm going to pull them all, ship them back to ORI, and have them all upgraded to the STX internals, and go through the hydrolocked one. No matter what I did, going through the steps others have, I couldn't get it to extend past what you see in the picture.
While that's down, I'm going to install a nice new set of axle shafts in the front...
:greensmok
300M RCV's. Why? Because why not?
When 4340 will probably be just fine, but you aren't about "probably". :laugh:
So, once I get the ORI's back from being shipped out this week, she should be all ready to go, with all the bugs worked out for a while.
Now, it's just time to finish a few more body panels and get ready for a shoot!
If you want to see everything...check out Pirate
A long overdue update.
Life took it's toll, so the buggy didn't get near as much attention as it needed until recently.
I was traveling (essentially living) in Georgia until the end of 2015, when I resigned from the company I'd been with since pretty much I graduated college. Gotta say, it was like leaving a family. Luckily, it's still a big but small industry, so we keep in touch to say the least :laugh: my ~8 days home a month usually went to working on house stuff, as to expected after buying a first house.
My commute went from 1500ish miles to ~3 miles door to door as of January 1st. It's been something I've never had, and being able to go home (~7 minute drive) for lunch if I choose is awesome.
I'm working with an old coworker of mine (technically my boss) from the same company, but now work in the public sector at sort of a "subsidiary company" of Colorado State University. The differences between private and public are...interesting.
being home has allowed me to start being able to spend time on what I'd like to...finally!
So, as of when I parked her when we moved, I had some issues to address:
1.) Tranny pan slight leak
This has been a wee bit of a pain :laugh:
I used The Right Stuff, and decided to go back to a rubber gasket this go around. I added another bolt (drilled and tapped the trans) on the passenger rear corner of the pan. For some reason it just wasn't wanting to seal there. As well, the three bolts I was using to connect the D300/NP231 shifter to, I just don't think were up to the task 100% with the amount of lateral force they were seeing. So, I drilled those holes out to 1/4" and used some Gr8 through bolts. This should hold a heck of a lot better, not putting the same rotational torque on the threads.
2.) Tranny was overheating per the gauge.
Well, turns out the tranny was fine (though i'll take it being the gauge any day)
I went through the gauge, and finally decided to just do a boiling water test. used a digital thermometer to compare against, and the gauge was consistent at reading 50* high. Nothing like getting a bad gauge out of the box.
I ordered up another of the same model, and verified it was accurate. It reads ~10* low, but I can live with that.
And here I thought Autometer was supped to be some great stuff.
3.) Coolant leaking
I went through and replaced a couple of flex hoses, and got rid of the worm clamps and moved most of the connections to T-Bolt clamps. On the bottom two hoses, I also added some RTV before sliding them on as a little extra insurance. She looks to be leak free now, and pending no more overheating issues, should be good to go.
4.) Overheating.
This was never the rigs fault, but mine. Just as I was wrapping up Holy Cross last year, the rig overheated. I had seen the DC controls controller stopped working for some reason, and thus flipped my rocker switch to bypass. Well, the bypass put the fan on high. I think this ended up being to much for the relay (though it was an 80A), and caused some melting of things:
So, I changed things up. The DC Controls controller is on an 80A relay now (it wouldn't need one if I didn't have it wired up to a switch), and I switched the bypass to the low setting on the fan. The low setting will keep the fan at 210* all day long, so no need for a high bypass.
I apparently had the hardware on the controller on wrong. I needed to add two brass nuts between the ring terminals and the controller, as these were what kept the transformers tight. Once I had that done, it worked again. I need to section off the front and back of the radiator, as I believe the air flow is causing too much heat dissipation from the temp probe. I've got the controller set at it's lowest setting (configured for 160* T-Stat), and it keeps the rig at 210*.
5.) No torque converter lock up.
This should be solved (and from a test drive appears to be).
My torque converter wasn't locking up from what I had guessed was the missing brake light switch sense. Looking through the FSM wiring diagram, it is a path to ground when off, and break the ground connection when hit. So, I wired up a relay using the output of my pressure brake switch, with the relay connection being grounds. So, I hit my brakes, and it brakes the ground connection. All other times, it's wired normally closed to ground.
6.) Fuel leak.
In my brilliance of the initial install of the fuel pump, I managed to forget to install the copper washer on one end. Well, that in turn over time made the pump leak slightly from that connection. So, I decided to go ahead and order another pump to put in, and have the original as a back up. Got it all installed with copper washers and some thread sealant (with some expensive stuff I got for free on a client site) and it's leak free.
Once I got all of this buttoned up, I pulled her out and took her for a drive. Took a few to remember my triple stick pattern, but got it back after a little playing around. She drove great, and my trans temp from the bit of a little drive I did never got above 150*.
However, as my build thread should be called...two steps forward...one step back: One of my ORI's (Driver's Front) is hydrolocked
So, I'm going to pull them all, ship them back to ORI, and have them all upgraded to the STX internals, and go through the hydrolocked one. No matter what I did, going through the steps others have, I couldn't get it to extend past what you see in the picture.
While that's down, I'm going to install a nice new set of axle shafts in the front...
:greensmok
300M RCV's. Why? Because why not?
When 4340 will probably be just fine, but you aren't about "probably". :laugh:
So, once I get the ORI's back from being shipped out this week, she should be all ready to go, with all the bugs worked out for a while.
Now, it's just time to finish a few more body panels and get ready for a shoot!
It was a bit between that last post and this one...
So, since last time there's been a bit done.
Cooling Issue:
So overall, I'm decently happy with my cooling system. It's "issues" have not been so much due to it, but user error or part malfunctions (mentioned below).
The DC Controls fan controller, when set to it's lowest kick on setting, was still having the rig hover just above 210. Well, I realized I had the temp probe coming in from the wrong end, so I flipped it around. Due to the temp probe being within the fan shroud, that was also causing a little bit of an issue, with the probe seeing lower temps than it should. So, I grabbed some clear plastic I have around, and blocked off the opposite side using some tranny cooler zip tie pieces, to prevent air flow of that small area.
Result? That kept them temp hovering under 210, all day, no problem...well...kinda.
My biggest issue is cheap 80A relays. Even though the fan is 0 to 100%, it smoked one 80A relay (Import junk, enough said). Well, I rewired the fan so that the bypass was on the low side of the fan. This way, if the controller failed, I could just run the fan on low full time (this keeps it right about 210 all day).
Well, ran Carnage the other weekend, and just as I'm getting out the exit...bam...I can hear my coolant overflow tank boiling.
I haven't had a chance to pull the dash off yet, but I'm preeeeetty sure the sh*tty 80A relay died...again.
So...**** those relays...
If it is indeed the issue, I'm just going to do what I should have in the beginning, and get an 85A continuous duty solenoid and never have to worry about it again!
Otherwise, the only thing I would probably change, would be to eliminate the soft hose that connects the two hard tubes under the belly. I'd either figure out a way to get one long piece in there, or have fittings welded on to be able to run braided hose. I used some RTV on the connections down there, as well as switched everything over to T-bolt clamps and got rid of the crappy worm clamps. So far, leak free.
Trans Cooling:
So after swapping out the defective trans gauge, I've been good on trans temp...until this last weekend. If mobbing around on trails, it can get warmer than it should (~250). I just don't think the little cooler and fan I have are up to the task when not going crawling, but not driving at higher speed.
My solution to this, a bigger, more efficient cooler mounted in the rear. The current setup is a tube/fin, I'll move to something larger that is stacked plate/fin with an accessory fan. Luckily the biggest PITA of that, will be taking the seat out, and panels to get hoses made and in for the rear. That brings me to:
Steering Cooling:
This is something I've honestly never had an issue with, until this last weekend (gunning around, and the run on Carnage). I could hear some whining coming from my pump, and I started leaking some fluid out between the orbital and left rear fitting (if looking at the orbital from the top, with the steering shaft towards you, it would be the left rear output, which goes to the ram).
The weird thing was, with me in low-low, and the pump whining...my rig kept wanting to die. If letting off the throttle, it would die. It would start right up and work fine, but then die if not giving it a little gas. I'm thinking that possible in low low, and the pump causing a little more tension, that it just wasn't enough to want to easily stay running. Otherwise, it's never been an issue. Once we got to the top of the exit and let it sit...no issues all the way through Chinamans back to camp.
I'm running Amsoil Hydro fluid. I might see about doing a flush of it depending on how it looks.
Once we were off the trail, and it cooled down...no issues or whining at all.
Luckily, I do have another cooler in a convenient spot that work for Hydro
I'm going to use the current tranny cooler, as an additional in line cooler for the hydro. I figure that should be enough to quell any issues going forward.
Other Things:
I got the front 300M RCV's in. That was a NIGHTMARE...well at least the first side was. Turn out I needed to clearance the inner side of my SOLID knuckles to prevent them from hitting the boots. But, they're in an running now!
The rear got some Yukon 4340 shafts, hard to pass up a BOGO sale! I thought I was going to be able to cut these on my bandsaw...NOPE! It got through about 1 tooth...then nothing. It will cut through thick mild steel no problem. So...out came the chop saw. ****, even that I had to go bits at a time, letting both cool off. But finally, got them cut, leveled, beveled, and it.
BODY PANELS!
Got all the body panels finished up
The doors are AL, with bends to match the body line. A thanks to Scott at Addicted Offroad for saving me a bit of time and getting those body line bends taken care of for me!
The hood came out better than I had thought. It's not perfect, but I'll take it!
Painting is still an art I've yet to fully master (I mean, I've only done it twice now :laugh
. The base coat is easy...it's that damned clear coat that is an art!
As a note, the paint I used...is $120...a QUART. I wanted the rig to look good for a least a little while
Hell, I ever used my professional quality buffer to give her a once over before going wheeling!
I worked until 2:30 in the morning (having started at 3pm the day before) to get them done in time for the activities that following weekend (see next post)
Overall, I'm really happy with how it all came together.
I'm pretty well done working on it now other than those simple things listed, and adding some additional lighting.
It feels...weird...being done after ~7 years of building, and nearly 10 years of acquiring parts.
Luckily I have another XJ (mild) that I am building to keep me going (along with the shop interior finish, the truck, trailer, and so on
)
So, since last time there's been a bit done.
Cooling Issue:
So overall, I'm decently happy with my cooling system. It's "issues" have not been so much due to it, but user error or part malfunctions (mentioned below).
The DC Controls fan controller, when set to it's lowest kick on setting, was still having the rig hover just above 210. Well, I realized I had the temp probe coming in from the wrong end, so I flipped it around. Due to the temp probe being within the fan shroud, that was also causing a little bit of an issue, with the probe seeing lower temps than it should. So, I grabbed some clear plastic I have around, and blocked off the opposite side using some tranny cooler zip tie pieces, to prevent air flow of that small area.
Result? That kept them temp hovering under 210, all day, no problem...well...kinda.
My biggest issue is cheap 80A relays. Even though the fan is 0 to 100%, it smoked one 80A relay (Import junk, enough said). Well, I rewired the fan so that the bypass was on the low side of the fan. This way, if the controller failed, I could just run the fan on low full time (this keeps it right about 210 all day).
Well, ran Carnage the other weekend, and just as I'm getting out the exit...bam...I can hear my coolant overflow tank boiling.
I haven't had a chance to pull the dash off yet, but I'm preeeeetty sure the sh*tty 80A relay died...again.
So...**** those relays...
If it is indeed the issue, I'm just going to do what I should have in the beginning, and get an 85A continuous duty solenoid and never have to worry about it again!
Otherwise, the only thing I would probably change, would be to eliminate the soft hose that connects the two hard tubes under the belly. I'd either figure out a way to get one long piece in there, or have fittings welded on to be able to run braided hose. I used some RTV on the connections down there, as well as switched everything over to T-bolt clamps and got rid of the crappy worm clamps. So far, leak free.
Trans Cooling:
So after swapping out the defective trans gauge, I've been good on trans temp...until this last weekend. If mobbing around on trails, it can get warmer than it should (~250). I just don't think the little cooler and fan I have are up to the task when not going crawling, but not driving at higher speed.
My solution to this, a bigger, more efficient cooler mounted in the rear. The current setup is a tube/fin, I'll move to something larger that is stacked plate/fin with an accessory fan. Luckily the biggest PITA of that, will be taking the seat out, and panels to get hoses made and in for the rear. That brings me to:
Steering Cooling:
This is something I've honestly never had an issue with, until this last weekend (gunning around, and the run on Carnage). I could hear some whining coming from my pump, and I started leaking some fluid out between the orbital and left rear fitting (if looking at the orbital from the top, with the steering shaft towards you, it would be the left rear output, which goes to the ram).
The weird thing was, with me in low-low, and the pump whining...my rig kept wanting to die. If letting off the throttle, it would die. It would start right up and work fine, but then die if not giving it a little gas. I'm thinking that possible in low low, and the pump causing a little more tension, that it just wasn't enough to want to easily stay running. Otherwise, it's never been an issue. Once we got to the top of the exit and let it sit...no issues all the way through Chinamans back to camp.
I'm running Amsoil Hydro fluid. I might see about doing a flush of it depending on how it looks.
Once we were off the trail, and it cooled down...no issues or whining at all.
Luckily, I do have another cooler in a convenient spot that work for Hydro
I'm going to use the current tranny cooler, as an additional in line cooler for the hydro. I figure that should be enough to quell any issues going forward.
Other Things:
I got the front 300M RCV's in. That was a NIGHTMARE...well at least the first side was. Turn out I needed to clearance the inner side of my SOLID knuckles to prevent them from hitting the boots. But, they're in an running now!
The rear got some Yukon 4340 shafts, hard to pass up a BOGO sale! I thought I was going to be able to cut these on my bandsaw...NOPE! It got through about 1 tooth...then nothing. It will cut through thick mild steel no problem. So...out came the chop saw. ****, even that I had to go bits at a time, letting both cool off. But finally, got them cut, leveled, beveled, and it.
BODY PANELS!
Got all the body panels finished up
The doors are AL, with bends to match the body line. A thanks to Scott at Addicted Offroad for saving me a bit of time and getting those body line bends taken care of for me!
The hood came out better than I had thought. It's not perfect, but I'll take it!
Painting is still an art I've yet to fully master (I mean, I've only done it twice now :laugh
. The base coat is easy...it's that damned clear coat that is an art!As a note, the paint I used...is $120...a QUART. I wanted the rig to look good for a least a little while
Hell, I ever used my professional quality buffer to give her a once over before going wheeling!
I worked until 2:30 in the morning (having started at 3pm the day before) to get them done in time for the activities that following weekend (see next post
)Overall, I'm really happy with how it all came together.
I'm pretty well done working on it now other than those simple things listed, and adding some additional lighting.
It feels...weird...being done after ~7 years of building, and nearly 10 years of acquiring parts.
Luckily I have another XJ (mild) that I am building to keep me going (along with the shop interior finish, the truck, trailer, and so on
)
Alright, so now time for what people have been more wanting to see
So the weekend before last (August 27th) has been something I've been needing to get ready for, for a while. For...two reasons.
First Reason...an overdue CRAWL Mag shoot on Wheeler Lake.
A BIG BIG thank you to Tim Magee of CRAWL. I've actually known Tim for a while (we spent from Boulder, CO to Spring Creek Texas in the back of and extended cab Dodge 3500 truck...5 guys total...for a WERock Comp). He didn't realize it was me building this all along :laugh:
So...a couple shots of Wheeler Lake (not many photos we're taken in courtesy of Tim):
More to come, I actually alllllmost went over for a shot or two :laugh:
Here was the second, well overdue reason...
Yep, I proposed
And to make it even better...I proposed with an O-Ring.
Why? Well her actual ring was handmade in 1923 by her Great Grandfather. There was NO way I was going to risk losing or screwing up that ring!
After that was done...we headed down to Buena Vista, and wheeled Chinamans. There's not a lot of pictures, and not too many of Mike's rig. This was meant to be a "see how quick we can get through" run:
Video of playing around:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BJoj55oj...en-by=in4aride
So the weekend before last (August 27th) has been something I've been needing to get ready for, for a while. For...two reasons.
First Reason...an overdue CRAWL Mag shoot on Wheeler Lake.
A BIG BIG thank you to Tim Magee of CRAWL. I've actually known Tim for a while (we spent from Boulder, CO to Spring Creek Texas in the back of and extended cab Dodge 3500 truck...5 guys total...for a WERock Comp). He didn't realize it was me building this all along :laugh:
So...a couple shots of Wheeler Lake (not many photos we're taken in courtesy of Tim):
More to come, I actually alllllmost went over for a shot or two :laugh:
Here was the second, well overdue reason...
Yep, I proposed
And to make it even better...I proposed with an O-Ring.
Why? Well her actual ring was handmade in 1923 by her Great Grandfather. There was NO way I was going to risk losing or screwing up that ring!
After that was done...we headed down to Buena Vista, and wheeled Chinamans. There's not a lot of pictures, and not too many of Mike's rig. This was meant to be a "see how quick we can get through" run:
Video of playing around:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BJoj55oj...en-by=in4aride
Then, the following day we hit up Carnage. It rained pretty heavily for several hours that morning before we got up around 8AM. The trail was pretty soft, and made for some fun. Luckily later on the sun came out and help dry it out some.
I was able to walk everything as I had before..except the damn waterfall. It was nice and wet at the bottom, and had a bit of mud on it from people running it the day before and late the night before as well.
Mike overall did great in his rig as well. We just winched him right out the exit as he took out a brake line and with the exit being what it is...weren't going to screw around with that.
I was able to walk everything as I had before..except the damn waterfall. It was nice and wet at the bottom, and had a bit of mud on it from people running it the day before and late the night before as well.
Mike overall did great in his rig as well. We just winched him right out the exit as he took out a brake line and with the exit being what it is...weren't going to screw around with that.
It's been a long road but it's nice to be pretty well...done
A question From NAXJA:
I have two circuit breakers for my switch panel, however I don't want one for my fan(s).
Reason being, when I'm wheeling, it's not something I'd notice popped out. Even if I had an LED letting me know it did, it might be too long with the fan off before I notice.
When I pull the dash panel, I'll see if it was the relay. I'm 99.99% sure it is, just like it was last time.
I'll just use what I've seen many others use for it/various applications:
Cole Hersee 24117 Red 12V Continuous Duty SPST Solenoid
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=ATVPDKIKX0DER
I did have one other electrical failure of sorts...the passenger side heat seater rocker switch stopped working 100% :laugh:
It will turn it onto low, but not onto high. So i'll need to find another :laugh:
Other than that, the only plans I have left at the moment are:
- Mounting a rear tranny cooler with fan. I'll be going with the Derale 13870 unit. I should be able to fit in the rear, mounted flat under the fuel cell and action packer.
- Add the old tranny cooler inline with my full hydro
- Add some LED lighting (dome lights, rock lights, a couple of pods up front)
- Get rid of the clear coat runs (razor blade and sand paper), and buff her back up
Other than that...getting a lot of missed wheeling done!
A question From NAXJA:
Quote:
dc controllers working okay or was it just relay issues? Was thinking of running them. Have you considered a circuit breaker with either a manual or auto reset? I've been looking for a solid state relay in the 80 amp range but haven't found anything yet.
I'm pretty sure it's a relay issue. Crap imported relays = crap for running.dc controllers working okay or was it just relay issues? Was thinking of running them. Have you considered a circuit breaker with either a manual or auto reset? I've been looking for a solid state relay in the 80 amp range but haven't found anything yet.
I have two circuit breakers for my switch panel, however I don't want one for my fan(s).
Reason being, when I'm wheeling, it's not something I'd notice popped out. Even if I had an LED letting me know it did, it might be too long with the fan off before I notice.
When I pull the dash panel, I'll see if it was the relay. I'm 99.99% sure it is, just like it was last time.
I'll just use what I've seen many others use for it/various applications:
Cole Hersee 24117 Red 12V Continuous Duty SPST Solenoid
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=ATVPDKIKX0DER
I did have one other electrical failure of sorts...the passenger side heat seater rocker switch stopped working 100% :laugh:
It will turn it onto low, but not onto high. So i'll need to find another :laugh:
Other than that, the only plans I have left at the moment are:
- Mounting a rear tranny cooler with fan. I'll be going with the Derale 13870 unit. I should be able to fit in the rear, mounted flat under the fuel cell and action packer.
- Add the old tranny cooler inline with my full hydro
- Add some LED lighting (dome lights, rock lights, a couple of pods up front)
- Get rid of the clear coat runs (razor blade and sand paper), and buff her back up
Other than that...getting a lot of missed wheeling done!
