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"And we're baaacckk!!" Project Las Vegas

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"And we're baaacckk!!" Project Las Vegas

Old 10-15-2012, 10:53 PM
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Default "And we're baaacckk!!" Project Las Vegas

Recently purchased yet another Jeep, therefore another build to share. Follow us on our journey! Purchased a couple weeks ago and have undergone some minor surgery but will start with the basics.

2001 Jeep Cherokee XJ 4.0 4WD Auto. Chrysler 8.25, Approximately 84000 miles.

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Minor rust on the bottom edges of the door
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Kind of a dirty interior, tried to clean it up, you can see some stains in the back seat
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Door locks do not work up front, can't even push them to lock or unlock. Passenger is unable to control their window. No speakers upfront. Headliner is JUST starting to sag. The heater is not blowing hot. All these issues I am addressing with threads started in this very forum. So thanks to everyone who has posted previously.

Plans are to have a daily driver as well as a weekend warrior. 3 inch lift with full leaf packs already ordered from Grimmus, TY. Planning on some 31 inch Kelly Safari's. Front and rear bumper. I have plans for a removable winch that can be utilized in the front or rear of the Jeep.

Follow along, this un-named jeep may encounter some issues that you have and maybe I can help. Other than that nothing too special, but would love to add something unique. (let me know if you have any ideas)

We may reference the last build thread under my user name, where I have already referenced some steps to correct some issues.

SNL SKIT "AND WE'RE BACK!!"
http://www.hulu.com/#!watch/3532

Last edited by sanchezcruz_20; 10-15-2012 at 11:12 PM. Reason: add link
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Old 10-15-2012, 11:01 PM
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Thats a pretty clean XJ. Good find.
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Old 10-16-2012, 12:46 AM
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Will definitely be following this, glad to see you're building an XJ again
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Old 10-17-2012, 06:19 PM
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Default Heater Core Flush *pics

With it getting colder here in Ohio, I noticed my heat was taking a long time to get to a temperature that could heat the cabin of my Jeep. Even when it got to 200ish on the temperature guage it still blew just warm, and seemed to even fluctuate according to where I was at with accelerating.

I searched the forum and checked for people with this problem and alot of people suggested flushing the heater core. I could not find any pics to verify what lines I thought needed removed for the flush, so I took a couple pics AND more impressively pics of what came out when flushed!!!

Before you start make sure your engine is not hot, there will be alot of water hitting your engine, also when you disconnect lines some coolant may spew.

First are two pics that show you exactly what hoses needed to be removed. You remove them from the front of the engine, and they stay attached on the firewall. After unclamping both hoses , take a garden hose turn it on, you don't need to blast it out, the pressure will build up and do just fine, so turn it on a nice steady stream. Try to make the garden hose flush with the bottom of the two heater hoses. Give it a few seconds and then your gunk will really show up. I let mine flow into a bucket so that way I knew how bad it was, and when my water turned up clear. After letting that flush for a couple minutes, flush through the top hose. Mine was not as gunky coming through the top hose. Do this flush a few times in both directions.
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I was amazed at what came out. I really didn't know what to think. I thought my coolant was just really dirty, but it in the end i think it was just nastiness from some rusting.

1st flush bottom to top
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2nd flush bottom to top
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3rd
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4th then I skipped a few of taking pics. But I think i flushed bout 8 times both way
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The results were not INSTANT, i had to get it up to operating temp and let it sit, but after a small grace period I can really tell the difference. I still feel like it takes a tad bit long to get up to temperature, but the temperature is a huge difference. A minor difference in how fast it heats up, but a huge difference is the heat is disperses. Im thinking about doing it again, because that crude can build up and get caught in the system somewhere. Even after my last flush I still have some flakes in clear water though.

Happy with the change!
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Old 10-17-2012, 07:28 PM
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i just picked up a xj had a tj,goin to try a xj on for size just got my lift on i should start a thread for progress
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Old 10-17-2012, 09:22 PM
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Yea, being a new member and all try and get on and introduce yourself and your new ride. Looks like your from Chesterfield, I'm familiar with the area. I'm not there currently even though my profile suggests I am. I need to update!!

I used to have a TJ, but love XJ's. They offer alot that isn't available in the wrangler models.
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Old 10-17-2012, 09:32 PM
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sweet another Michigan guy, welcome Foundling. and Sanchez, the xj looks clean for what year it is. I also need to flush out my core it takes a bit to get to temp on mine.

Btw you both should post in this thread https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f39/me...149068/index5/
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Old 10-17-2012, 09:37 PM
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I'm not in MI anymore, but welcome to you as well!

its an easy maintenance/fix...let me know how it goes!!
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Old 10-18-2012, 07:24 PM
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ohh boy he's back with another one this should be good...
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Old 11-10-2012, 01:22 AM
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Default Door locks not working

Have Done a few things the past couple weeks, addressing the fact my front door locks were not working one. I simply could not even push them into a lock position.

I read a post that lead me in the right direction. The post suggested that when replacing door speakers this member did not unhook electronics and locking mechanisms and simply let the door hang while replacing the speakers. The door panel hanging put downward pressure on the lock/unlock rod, simply bending it into a position where it didn't have room to properly move back and forth.

In retrospect I'm guessing my previous owner did the same thing as the front speakers didn't even work AND there wasnt a front driver speaker, so the panels had probably been off at sometime. Trial and error, and in under an hour I had two working door

With this solution I also now have my electronic door locks working for the front now that they are freed up. AS WELL AS some tunes up front. Put in some 40 dollar pioneers and they are doing great.

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Old 11-10-2012, 02:09 AM
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Default 3" lift unboxing/leaf spring bolts issues

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Started putting my lift on this past weekend, running into the normal problems. Having to cut the leaf spring bolts off, front and back. However this time knowing that I was going to cut it off if I ran into any troubles, I didn't manually back out the bolts. Which ended up being a problem.

My first xj I labored for hours trying to get the bolts out of the front of the leaf springs, and when I finally decided I needed to cut them they were backed out enough for when I went to cut them the Bolt was backed out enough to where the bolt teeth were out of the integrated thread and the remainder of the bolt didn't need unthreading. This time we didn't back em not, not thinking about the threads, and left plenty of bolt threaded in

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So We cut the bolt leaving some thread in the "frame".
Tried heating the bolt up and pounding it out, didn't work
Tried to use easy outs, no luck
Eventually decided to drill the bolts out, not easy, kind of time consuming, but worked.
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Had to go get some foot long drill bits in order to give us the clearance needed to run through the leaf spring brackets. Bought two at lowes, one for a pilot hole, then another just smaller than the hole for the bolt. I forget the sizes off hand. Side note, when cutting the bolts out, one side of the bolt was significantly easier because we weren't cutting through the sleeve. The actual bolt wasn't that bad.

Yes, the integrated threading in the body was jacked up now. So now we need a bolt inside the body. We haven't quite tackled this 100 %, but the game plan has Been put into place. The factory m14-2.00x120mm bolt does not make it long enough through the brackets, through the body, and then into the body for a nut, so I purchased a m14-2.00x150mm bolt, which should give me about another inch. Got this Bolt from fastenal.com. I had a local store, so got two bolts and overnight shipping, for the weekend, for 19 bucks, pretty good since the factory replacement bolts from dealership were 9 a piece.

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We had to cut a hole extending an already existing hole in the bottom of the "frame rail"to make it big enough for a ratchet and nut. Made the hole pretty easy with an angle grinder. Pic later.

As for now everything is done except for swapping the bolts and adding the nuts...hopefully it works fine. We will have to cover up the holes with something, don't know what yet.

Have wheels sitting in the garage, kelly safaris on my mind, FRONT BUMPER tO TAKE OFF, front and rear bumpers on the way....so very excited

Last edited by sanchezcruz_20; 11-10-2012 at 02:30 AM.
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Old 11-11-2012, 11:30 AM
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Glad to have you back my friend! Don't get Kelly safaris though.
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Old 11-11-2012, 04:59 PM
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Default Kelly safaris

Originally Posted by MTLXJ View Post
Glad to have you back my friend! Don't get Kelly safaris though.
What don't you like about em? I searched the forum for some opinions, seemed ok. They are priced ok, at about 160 a piece, and the tread design was to my liking. I could always get pro comp all terrains from 4wd.com, they have a good deal that ends tmrw....
Whatcha think?
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Old 11-11-2012, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by sanchezcruz_20

What don't you like about em? I searched the forum for some opinions, seemed ok. They are priced ok, at about 160 a piece, and the tread design was to my liking. I could always get pro comp all terrains from 4wd.com, they have a good deal that ends tmrw....
Whatcha think?
For the price I guess they are ok tires, but in my opinion the wear down very fast and don't have a strong sidewall.
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Old 11-12-2012, 09:33 PM
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Yea, I did hear that....
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