Ultimate Cherokee Build and Mods
05-16-2016, 10:21 AM
#16
Senior Member
I'm going with the same setup personally as well. Here's my personal reasoning. It's a balancing of priorities and abilities. With a dedicated crawler of course you want to be locked at both ends vs a "weekend trips to the mall" type rig open-open should be just fine. A jack of all trades/expedition/DD build tries to find some balance or middle ground. A selectable up front seems like a no brainer - gives you the traction when you need it and the road mannerisms when you don't as well as saves your tires. Yeah, a LSD in the rear won't help you crawl straight up walls like a spider, but in a rig like this that isn't the main goal. A LSD will help you get going and keep you going in snow etc. Sure it can be done with an open diff as well, but if choosing between the two I'm taking the LSD.
Last edited by Jeepology; 05-16-2016 at 11:18 AM.
05-16-2016, 10:22 AM
#17
Senior Member
Very good input, that would give me street ability and traction offroad and exploring when needed.
Over the years I've run Detroit lockers, Detroit Tru Trac, Auburn Pro Posi, and ARB's..... Each having its benefits but not one that for alll situations.
To date myself a little and how long I've been keeping I remember when the Howell fuel injection kit, Jacobs ignition and 33's were the in thing on the CJ.
One of my add to list that I just ordered....two decals.. Jeepology...
Over the years I've run Detroit lockers, Detroit Tru Trac, Auburn Pro Posi, and ARB's..... Each having its benefits but not one that for alll situations.
To date myself a little and how long I've been keeping I remember when the Howell fuel injection kit, Jacobs ignition and 33's were the in thing on the CJ.
One of my add to list that I just ordered....two decals.. Jeepology...
Last edited by Jeepology; 05-16-2016 at 10:26 AM.
05-16-2016, 07:34 PM
#18
CF Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 5,920
Likes: 0
Received 190 Likes
on
165 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
My next thought for my off-road set is the rim choice, I found a set of 5 Rubicon Moab Rims 5/4.5 16 for $200 with some wore out BFG's but then I also found a full set of 16" factory steelies for $50 and have ordered a diy bead lock to weld on one to see how it turns out. The Moab has been a favorite wheel of mine for years
05-16-2016, 08:05 PM
#19
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1997 Country
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 injector upgrade, flexalite fan and radiator, screaming demon ignition, coil wires, header
05-16-2016, 10:05 PM
#20
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1997 Country
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 injector upgrade, flexalite fan and radiator, screaming demon ignition, coil wires, header
05-16-2016, 11:33 PM
#21
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1997 Country
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 injector upgrade, flexalite fan and radiator, screaming demon ignition, coil wires, header
Ok parts wanted or list I'm thinking of...
Optima battery
Upgraded headlight harness, upgraded battery cables
Trucklites
Mean green alternator
Possible dual battery
Winch
Swing out tire carrier
Frame stiffeners
Rocker panel guards
CB / antenna
Transfer case linkage replacement
Axle tubes
Truss
Inner axle sleeves
Axle seals
Arb front and rear
Diff guards
clock transfer
Flat belly
6 planetary gear, chain and slip yoke conversion
Terra 4:1
Flex a lite radiator and triple fans
Hesco hiflo thermostat
Headed
Walker silent hi flow exhaust
Hi flow cat
Metal cloak / OME lift
Rear disc conversion
Rocker guards
Tank skid
Belly skid
Roof rack
Front nod rear aux lights
Swing out tire carrier
Chromoly axles
62 mm throttle body
Screamin demon coil, wires, rotor
Optima battery
Upgraded headlight harness, upgraded battery cables
Trucklites
Mean green alternator
Possible dual battery
Winch
Swing out tire carrier
Frame stiffeners
Rocker panel guards
CB / antenna
Transfer case linkage replacement
Axle tubes
Truss
Inner axle sleeves
Axle seals
Arb front and rear
Diff guards
clock transfer
Flat belly
6 planetary gear, chain and slip yoke conversion
Terra 4:1
Flex a lite radiator and triple fans
Hesco hiflo thermostat
Headed
Walker silent hi flow exhaust
Hi flow cat
Metal cloak / OME lift
Rear disc conversion
Rocker guards
Tank skid
Belly skid
Roof rack
Front nod rear aux lights
Swing out tire carrier
Chromoly axles
62 mm throttle body
Screamin demon coil, wires, rotor
05-16-2016, 11:51 PM
#22
Senior Member
Any particular reason for the headlight harness upgrade AND Trucklites?
Sounds like we have somewhat similar build plans. Can't wait to see where it goes.
Sounds like we have somewhat similar build plans. Can't wait to see where it goes.
05-17-2016, 12:04 AM
#23
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1997 Country
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 injector upgrade, flexalite fan and radiator, screaming demon ignition, coil wires, header
Yes and yes...
The headlight harness upgrade is one of the best upgrades you can do to maximize the stock lighting on an xj and Yj.. The factory setup doesn't allow the proper wattage to the lights. Everyjeep I have done and all my buddies and all,articles will tell you how much of a difference it makes. You can get the kit from $20 to $100 if you buy arb.
Trucklites are nice....but expensive, I would go a good housing with an h4 conversion first. If that isn't enough light then consider the cost of the trucklites. but the harness upgrade, headlight housings and good set of h4 bulbs will be fine, add some driving lights if you need more.
The headlight harness upgrade is one of the best upgrades you can do to maximize the stock lighting on an xj and Yj.. The factory setup doesn't allow the proper wattage to the lights. Everyjeep I have done and all my buddies and all,articles will tell you how much of a difference it makes. You can get the kit from $20 to $100 if you buy arb.
Trucklites are nice....but expensive, I would go a good housing with an h4 conversion first. If that isn't enough light then consider the cost of the trucklites. but the harness upgrade, headlight housings and good set of h4 bulbs will be fine, add some driving lights if you need more.
Last edited by Cherokee XJ Ultimate; 05-17-2016 at 12:13 AM.
05-17-2016, 06:30 AM
#24
Senior Member
Yes and yes...
The headlight harness upgrade is one of the best upgrades you can do to maximize the stock lighting on an xj and Yj.. The factory setup doesn't allow the proper wattage to the lights. Everyjeep I have done and all my buddies and all,articles will tell you how much of a difference it makes. You can get the kit from $20 to $100 if you buy arb.
Trucklites are nice....but expensive, I would go a good housing with an h4 conversion first. If that isn't enough light then consider the cost of the trucklites. but the harness upgrade, headlight housings and good set of h4 bulbs will be fine, add some driving lights if you need more.
The headlight harness upgrade is one of the best upgrades you can do to maximize the stock lighting on an xj and Yj.. The factory setup doesn't allow the proper wattage to the lights. Everyjeep I have done and all my buddies and all,articles will tell you how much of a difference it makes. You can get the kit from $20 to $100 if you buy arb.
Trucklites are nice....but expensive, I would go a good housing with an h4 conversion first. If that isn't enough light then consider the cost of the trucklites. but the harness upgrade, headlight housings and good set of h4 bulbs will be fine, add some driving lights if you need more.
05-17-2016, 12:30 PM
#25
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: WNY
Posts: 933
Likes: 0
Received 45 Likes
on
45 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Why a mean green and not a Durango/Dakota for 1/4 of the cost? And why all the high flow cooling stuff? It's been my experience that stuff like that is not needed, and money better spent elsewhere. I've never been a fan of tube sleeves either, I think if you're going to truss it's more than adequate. I bent my 30 from jumping, had it had sleeves I would have not been able to drive it 8hrs home. Now it's trussed, no sleeves again, as it can still bend. Not ragging on your list at all, I have half of that stuff, just want to know your reasoning that's all.
Last edited by 2000CHERO; 05-17-2016 at 12:46 PM.
05-17-2016, 12:36 PM
#26
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: WNY
Posts: 933
Likes: 0
Received 45 Likes
on
45 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I also agree with locker setup. All reasons mentioned are why I did selectable front and LSD rear. Some on here bash a LSD saying it's not a real locker. Well it's not a trail rig, You can still lock it up somewhat on command if you know what you're doing, and really it comes down to driver in 99% of the obstacles/trails.
05-17-2016, 03:15 PM
#27
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 323
Likes: 0
Received 39 Likes
on
27 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Golen 4.6L
05-17-2016, 08:14 PM
#28
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1997 Country
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 injector upgrade, flexalite fan and radiator, screaming demon ignition, coil wires, header
It wasn't familiar with the Dakota option, what's the output?
Cooling for me is important because it will see slow speed 110 plus degree temperatures with the AC running exploring out in the desert. I spend most of my time exploring Death Valley & the Mojave. Not to discount getting stuck on the blacktop in stopped highway traffic where you can really dry an egg on the ground in a mid Las Vegas August day
Cooling for me is important because it will see slow speed 110 plus degree temperatures with the AC running exploring out in the desert. I spend most of my time exploring Death Valley & the Mojave. Not to discount getting stuck on the blacktop in stopped highway traffic where you can really dry an egg on the ground in a mid Las Vegas August day
Why a mean green and not a Durango/Dakota for 1/4 of the cost? And why all the high flow cooling stuff? It's been my experience that stuff like that is not needed, and money better spent elsewhere. I've never been a fan of tube sleeves either, I think if you're going to truss it's more than adequate. I bent my 30 from jumping, had it had sleeves I would have not been able to drive it 8hrs home. Now it's trussed, no sleeves again, as it can still bend. Not ragging on your list at all, I have half of that stuff, just want to know your reasoning that's all.
05-17-2016, 08:14 PM
#29
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1997 Country
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 injector upgrade, flexalite fan and radiator, screaming demon ignition, coil wires, header
Looks like my best option is dual arb
