Tarantula Build
07-15-2011, 04:10 PM
#17
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Location: Brownsville, Texas.
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
have you had your 8.8 axle tubes welded to the pig yet??? they've been known to (over and extended period of abuse) separate from the pig, (factory welds just aren't that dependable...) nice build thought BTW, definitely looking like a "***** to Bull" build hahaha keep it up
Last edited by TarantulaS2; 07-15-2011 at 04:15 PM.
07-15-2011, 08:33 PM
#20
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
looking good!
what joints did you get and from where? I have the same problem and don't want to waste my time repalceing the inserts and just get new joints. any links/specs would be great.
as far as the rear driveline angle, it really depends on your setup, and how much lift you have as to what the proper degree is going to be. I mocked up my rear end and didn't weld on the perches. just set them on, bolted everything up and left the u-bolts just loose enough to pivot my pinion(driveline in) with a floor jack to set the angle (with the weight of the vehicle on the springs. mine ended up being 14* (from level to the ground) and 2* below the T/case yoke to counter axle wrap/loaded with cargo. with 5.5" of lift and a 1 inch rear strech. but yours will be different as we are set up differently...
good info about drive line angles with a double cardon joint (assuming you have a SYE, can't remember reading it) http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index2.html
http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=108270
good luck
what joints did you get and from where? I have the same problem and don't want to waste my time repalceing the inserts and just get new joints. any links/specs would be great.
as far as the rear driveline angle, it really depends on your setup, and how much lift you have as to what the proper degree is going to be. I mocked up my rear end and didn't weld on the perches. just set them on, bolted everything up and left the u-bolts just loose enough to pivot my pinion(driveline in) with a floor jack to set the angle (with the weight of the vehicle on the springs. mine ended up being 14* (from level to the ground) and 2* below the T/case yoke to counter axle wrap/loaded with cargo. with 5.5" of lift and a 1 inch rear strech. but yours will be different as we are set up differently...
good info about drive line angles with a double cardon joint (assuming you have a SYE, can't remember reading it) http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index2.html
http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=108270
good luck
Last edited by Gorillaxj; 07-15-2011 at 08:38 PM.
07-16-2011, 12:08 AM
#21
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
here is what i ordered for the joints.. ordered them from Currie Enterprises
2x
http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...t.aspx?id=1262
2x
http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...9.aspx?id=2629
2x
http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...t.aspx?id=1096
2x
http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...t.aspx?id=2633
2x
http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...t.aspx?id=2476
2x
http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...t.aspx?id=2962
2x
http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...t.aspx?id=1262
2x
http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...9.aspx?id=2629
2x
http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...t.aspx?id=1096
2x
http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...t.aspx?id=2633
2x
http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...t.aspx?id=2476
2x
http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...t.aspx?id=2962
07-16-2011, 12:25 AM
#22
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Year: 2k
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hey bro it's coming out great. Wish I could help out some but my new home is taking up all of my time. I'm putting a fence up next weekend and I should be free for a while after that's done. Oh I'd like some info on that $200 paint job. I was thinking desert tan...
07-16-2011, 12:30 AM
#23
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so after reading just a little bit from the sites that Gorillaxj linked.. i know my angle is wrong.. i was really just looking forward to a simple answer but i guess i have a lot of reading to do, this is what I THOUGHT was good..
dumb question, it doesn't have to be ride hight to get the right angle right?? i think i may be over thinking this..
ALSO! another setback, my muffler is now in contact with my driveshaft... luckly i have everything to fix it but im really getting anxious to finish. im more thank likely gonna cut off the tail pipe, flip it(bottom facing up) and weld on a turn down clocked a little towards the outside.
dumb question, it doesn't have to be ride hight to get the right angle right?? i think i may be over thinking this..
ALSO! another setback, my muffler is now in contact with my driveshaft... luckly i have everything to fix it but im really getting anxious to finish. im more thank likely gonna cut off the tail pipe, flip it(bottom facing up) and weld on a turn down clocked a little towards the outside.
Last edited by TarantulaS2; 07-16-2011 at 12:36 AM.
07-16-2011, 12:31 AM
#24
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Last edited by TarantulaS2; 07-16-2011 at 12:40 AM.
07-16-2011, 06:45 AM
#25
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That was my original plan but finding time is hard. My wife probably wouldn't appreciate me making a mess at our new house either. Just another dream....
07-16-2011, 04:03 PM
#26
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what do you guys think about the angle i have setup? i have setup the same at the t-case output, i have 4.5 rc springs and 2.5 lift shackles..
07-16-2011, 10:29 PM
#27
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alright so i figured it out, thanks for the help on that last post...everyone... haha.
this is the final angle, the pinion is 2 degrees lower than the shaft.
ANOTHER setback, the shaft is now max'd out.. i guess a new driveshaft is now needed.
this is the final angle, the pinion is 2 degrees lower than the shaft.
ANOTHER setback, the shaft is now max'd out.. i guess a new driveshaft is now needed.
07-16-2011, 11:33 PM
#28
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by TarantulaS2
alright so i figured it out, thanks for the help on that last post...everyone... haha.
this is the final angle, the pinion is 2 degrees lower than the shaft.
ANOTHER setback, the shaft is now max'd out.. i guess a new driveshaft is now needed.
this is the final angle, the pinion is 2 degrees lower than the shaft.
ANOTHER setback, the shaft is now max'd out.. i guess a new driveshaft is now needed.
but it looks good now. Should be able to get it lengthened pretty cheap. Cost me 50$ to do mine. To clarify for other people dointhis and reading this thread. The vehicle does, Not need to be at ride hieght but the vehicle does need to be set on the springs. And load the suspension to simulate normal drive angles. Looking good man. Thanks for the links to the joints!
07-19-2011, 11:00 PM
#29
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Year: 1997
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so got some work done today, burned all the M.O.R.E brackets in, and painted it.
these are some of my welds,,
all done..
and painted..
these are some of my welds,,
all done..
and painted..
