Hello everyone! This is my 1998 Jeep Cherokee Classic. I purchased it a little over a year ago for $1,100 with 230K on the clock and 130K on the engine. I knew that when I purchased this vehicle, it was going to be a fixer-upper, but I wanted the experience, as well as a vehicle to call my own. I started with the basic things: Checking the tires, fluids, filters, etc. Things were going pretty good for the first few months. And then, it happened: (Note: Certain things are blurred to prevent doxing.)
My Jeep's first, and hopefully last, tow.
It was brought back to my house, in which I promptly tried to figure out what went wrong. I turned the key and heard some clicks, but nothing happened. I tested the battery and even tried jumping it. I changed the starter as well but to no avail. I finally learned that it was my NSS that went bad, and I was able to found a cheapie one to replace it for $40. Worked like a charm and haven't had any trouble since (knock on wood).
I did quite a few things in the months following. I got some tires (cheapies, but still), a new battery, new windshield washer pumps, new
, and tie rod ends. Here's a pic of the headliner. I used some headliner fabric I found at Joann Fabrics and 3M adhesive I picked up at Menard's. I thought it turned out amazing.
At this point, I was feeling pretty good. But then Christmas came around, and that's when I turned the heat on. Unfortunately for me, my heater core had sprung a fat leak. I put up with it for a few months until March rolled around, so I took on the challenge. I purchased this new heater core and this new evaporator core, along with
, and https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1998,cherokee,4.0l+l6,1315943,suspension,stabilizer+bar+link,7580#. He also warned me that my steering box was on its way out and would need replacing in the near future and that the shocks really needed to be replaced as well. I did not get to this until later on.
May rolls around and my water pump begins to leak like crazy. I went and replaced
After this change, the Jeep started making some loud ticking noises. I went back through and double-checked the everything was nice and tight. I fired it back up and the noise went away. Not sure what it was, but I haven't heard it since. A little while after that, I installed my https://www.carsteering.com/buynow/1998/Jeep/Cherokee/Power_Steering_Gear_Box/82-00305_R?crid=2430462. There was almost nothing left of the factory spacer, so I bought a new https://www.dirtdogsoffroad.com/product/85-to-01-jeep-cherokee-steering-box-spacer-3-16-inch-plate-with-new-hardware-xj-steering-box-spacer-copy/. I put it in there and adjusted the nut on top 1/16 of a turn so it was a little tighter.
About a month later, I determined that it's time to lift the Jeep. I originally wanted to go with an RC 3" lift, but decided to back off and do something more modest, as I was just wanting to get a solid base now so I could go bigger later. After a few weeks of research, here is what I came up with.
Total: $779
I ended purchasing things like safety glasses, gloves, paintbrushes, dusk masks, etc. as well, but you can get those wherever.
The Front End
I read online somewhere the front end is the hardest, so might as well get it out of the way. Here's a before image.
I scrubbed everything down using a wire brush and coated it with POR-15. I did a pretty sloppy job, but I am planning on undercoating it eventually. I got a new rubber doughnut in there as well.
Here are the new Moog coil spring and Monroe gas shock compared to the factory coil and shock.
In order to get the new shock in, I used spring compressors and jacked up the other side of the axle to give me a little more room.
Unfortunately, I still couldn't get it to slide in. I used a crowbar and gently pried it over the perch until it cleared. The springs contain a lot of energy due to being compressed. Use extreme caution when prying it in there. Make sure to have someone at your side in case something goes wrong.
After I got the coils in there, I inserted the new shocks and cut the tie so they expanded up into the mounting hole. Fairly straightforward.
The Rear End
The first issue I encountered with the rear end was that the upper shackle broke snapped off as I was backing it out. How I solved this issue was by removing the rear bumper, removing the rear bumper support piece, cutting a hole at the end of the frame rail, and knocking the welded nut loose using a hammer and chisel. Easier said than done, of course. I wish I had gotten pictures of this process, but I just got so wrapped up into it I forgot to.
I was able to get the rest of the bolts on the driver's side out no problem, however, when I tried to stick the new leaf spring in, something didn't seem quite right.
After further investigation, it appeared I was sent the wrong leaf springs. I ordered part no. 929-301 but received 929-202. I'd like to say the exchange process was a breeze, but FedEx decided to be difficult. That's a story for a different time, though. I do not have a comparison picture of the correct new leafs vs the old ones, but I do have this one. While I was waiting for the new springs to come, I scrubbed down the area above the rear axle and coated it with POR.
When the correct leaf springs came, I was able to install them both without too much trouble. The front leaf spring bolt on the passenger side became sized in the bushing so I had to cut between the bushing and the body. It came out with a little persuasion.
I ground all the rust off my bumper hitch and used some spray paint I found in the basement on it. I ended up not putting it back on, but I'll keep it around in case I need to haul anything sometime.
The upper shock bolts broke, which wasn't surprising. I used a rotary hammer to knock out the old bolts and then I used these flange nuts along with the new bolts they came with to get the new shocks in. It worked pretty well for the most part, but getting the bolt holes lined up was kinda a pain.
You see, it's there, but the bolt just didn't want to go in. I ended up using a slightly longer bolt and it was able to catch.
Here's the aftermath! Boy did that take a while to clean up
Alright, so here is the finished product. I wrote down the before wheel-to-fender clearance somewhere but I can't find it at the moment... I'd say it was at least 2 1/2" over the saggy stock height! It rides very well now. The ride is stiffer and it actually absorbs the bumps instead of bouncing repeatedly after hitting them. It feels much more controllable as well.
I believe my next project will be cutting out the old rocker panels and replacing them with 2x6 rectangular tube steel for some extra strength and protection against door-dingers. Also, I'd like to say thank you to everyone here at CherokeeForum. Without you guys, I would have been lost from the start. I'll be able to wheel with the pros one of these days! I'm getting closer by every passing day.
