Thanks man, it's definitely taking some time but it should turn out well. More to come

 

Holidays have been crazy but we made some progress. When it gets a bit warmer (no heat in shop) I will be painting all the interior plastics a dark gray to match everything.

I ended up moving the switches here. But, I cracked the tray when I screwed it in. I will be getting a new one soon.

Got the interior finished and cleaned up. Very happy with the results.
Here is the relay box with all connections made. It's a bit crowded but it works.

 

You my friend did some really nice work. Inspiration to my job and my floorboards look damn near the same condition yours was in.

I often wonder I'd I should just replace mine with all new floor boards like you did but at same time mine is trail rig and not a DD. So I'm deciding if I should patch it or cut it all out and weld in new floors.

You even had rust in same spots building up. Must be common in these jeeps.

 

I would just get the new floorpan. It's worth it for the time you save.

 

So let me ask you this, I have cut off wheels normally what I would use to cut metal but how did you cut that floor pan near uni frame area without cutting into that? I know you had metal cutting blades but were you just careful on the depth of your cuts or some other way?

 

Not sure what your job is in the Navy but guessing electrical work? Mine looks like a birds nest too lol but you did a great job cleaning up.

By the way I'm Active Duty Navy as well stationed in Everett on a Destroyer. (CMAA). Perhaps we had this discussion before.

I also dont envy you to go on a boat that sinks lol. Kidding those sub's are impressive and my CO now was on a Sub.

Oh I also noticed your cracked windshield, that stinks.

 

I just cut around the subframe rails and down the middle of the channel, then I used a sharpened chisel and a hammer to remove the spot welds holding the rest of the pan to the rail. After that just clean it up with a flap wheel. Easy, but time consuming. The hardest part were the spot welds on the pan near the doors on the inside portion of the rocker.

I'm a radioman (ETR1) we do work with electrical, but not really in this capacity. Before the navy I worked at a 12v shop my uncle owns. That's kinda where I pick that up. I bought it with the windshield that way. It was a negotiation point so I didn't mind. Plus I just got a nice crack in my daily too. So hopefully I can work out a deal to have both done at the same time. The sub force definitely isn't for everyone. That's the reason for the extensive psych evaluation prior to reporting. (They need to make sure you're just crazy enough) LOL

 

Just ordered the JCR DIY Winch bumper. I used there DIY bumper on my ZJ and was more than pleased with the result so I look forward to getting it here and installed. I have an idea to modify it a bit to better fit my needs, stay tuned!!
Also ordered a full exhaust from IRO to replace the terribly rattily one that currently installed. I went with the Magnaflow cat/hybrid muffler. Never used there exhaust products before so I'll be sure to post my experience here when it's installed.

 

Ha ha I like your end quote about being nearly crazy enough to be in the Sub life but not completely insane .

Let me know how you like your exhaust for sure I'm in the market for a new one. Mine is getting rusty and crappy so I'm just going to replace all the way back to include manifold and swap for header probably.

I'll keep your tip in mind when I remove my floor pan and the tip around rocker for spot welds. Did you just wire wheel down to expose the spot welds in order to know where they were positioned?

No experience with this kind of stuff well very little when it comes to body work more mechanical so it's a learning curve for me.

 

The spot welds are easily identifiable. They look like little dots. I would just make sure you have a nice sharp chisel or what I used was a flat bar, sharpened on one and a bent at a 90 on the other to create a hitting surface.

 

Thanks I'll keep a eye out when I get to that. Thinking I may just pull the trigger and order new floor pan at least for entire passenger side. Drivers side I'm probably going to get away with one very small patch so not really worth spending on a new pan. I'll order mine end of this week where did you buy your pans from? Seen a couple places but trying to get ones that have a good fit and affordable.

 

I ordered off Amazon I forget the brand but there was only one.

 

Got the underside painted with POR-15 and 3M undercoat. Got a heater and boy is it nice.
then just did some misc Interior touch-up work. Also got to work on the front fenders. They were held on by self tappers and I wasn't liking it. So I got a rivet nut gun. I used the 1/4-20 rivets. Worked out well. I'm just waiting for more on the other side because I bought out the store that had them local.



Little tip. If using step but and you need a certain size. Mark it off with tape.

 

Mounted up the CB today. I really had a hard time deciding were to put it. But after about 30 mins this is what I chose.

The hole where I routed the cable was already there from a switch I removed. I'm not sure I would have routed it this way had it not been there, but, it's nice to keep it from hitting my leg while I drive.

 

Started plumbing the OBA today. I need a couple fittings to finish it up and I found out my pressure switch is bad. Should get that stuff Saturday so hopefully finish it up this weekend.
Compressor is mounted firmly. Not sure it it will handle the heat because it's a cheap model. If not I'll upgrade after failure. The hose said it's rated to 150*F. I also put a heat shield condom on where it gets near the engine an exhaust. Again, upgrade after failure.
I mounted the compressor by welding on a tab to the shock hoops. The paint isn't final. Just enough to prevent rust until I get the rest done in black.
The extra hose will be removed when I get the right fitting to cut and shorten the hose. I will also be moving the pressure switch to the window side next to the hose connection.
I used rivet nuts and secured the tank to the body just under the window. The pressure switch will go where the relief valve is currently and I'll move the relief to the other side. The only reason for this is to keep the wires hidden and neatly ran next to the hose.

With the exception of the hose and fittings this was all stuff I just had lying around. So until stuff doesn't work right I plan on running this setup. Total cost so far is about $30. It will take a lot of convincing for me to buy a $300+ system.