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Project "Turquoise Medallion" 94' XJ

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Old Aug 23, 2010 | 07:04 PM
  #226  
tactical40cal's Avatar
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From: South Louisiana
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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where'd you find those end links? i checked tractor supply and couldn't find anything! i'd like to make my own disco's if it makes $ sense vs just buying some already done. help! lol
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 08:15 AM
  #227  
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From: Eagle Mountain, Utah
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by tactical40cal
where'd you find those end links? i checked tractor supply and couldn't find anything! i'd like to make my own disco's if it makes $ sense vs just buying some already done. help! lol
I got my links at the local Marshall's Hardware Store. You can get them online though.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#heim-joints/=8jjlme

Def. makes sense to make your own!

Last edited by X1994J; Aug 24, 2010 at 08:17 AM.
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 02:10 PM
  #228  
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From: South Louisiana
Year: 1990
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Questions for you. I'd like to go full width on mine. Do you drive it on the street? How fast have you gotten it up to? How's it handle? Mine is my DD but keep in mind that I MAYBE put 10k a year on it and that's a busy year. Thanks!
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 03:10 PM
  #229  
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From: Ft. Collins, Co
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
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Originally Posted by tactical40cal
Questions for you. I'd like to go full width on mine. Do you drive it on the street? How fast have you gotten it up to? How's it handle? Mine is my DD but keep in mind that I MAYBE put 10k a year on it and that's a busy year. Thanks!
10k+ on anything over 33s is about the line people draw for DD or not. Or so ive noticed. Full widths and 35s would probably wreak havoc on the wallet buying gas. As far as the widths he's got, its not a problem on the street unless in construction zones and on side streets. Maybe parking n the back of walmarts parking lots
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 03:19 PM
  #230  
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From: Eagle Mountain, Utah
Year: 1994
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Originally Posted by tactical40cal
Questions for you. I'd like to go full width on mine. Do you drive it on the street? How fast have you gotten it up to? How's it handle? Mine is my DD but keep in mind that I MAYBE put 10k a year on it and that's a busy year. Thanks!
I have driven it on the street up to about 45 mph so far. The faster I go the smoother it seems to get. It seems to handle fine for what it is, coils on all corners with no sway bars. I DD it before on 8" lift and 35's and it was ok. The 38's would definitely suck to DD i think. If I get a set of all -terrains in a 35" tire I think I could daily drive it pretty easily. Not sure about 10K a year streetable, but it is streetable. I am going to install the flares on the rear tonight, start modifying the mud flaps to fit with the new rear axle position. Hopefully get it inspected next week.
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 09:30 PM
  #231  
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From: South Louisiana
Year: 1990
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Cool. I know I wanna go full widths eventually so I really don't wanna waste money on the D30 or changing out the D35 so I'll just start looking for axles. Thanks man
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Old Sep 7, 2010 | 10:43 AM
  #232  
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From: Eagle Mountain, Utah
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Well i've had it out a couple more times. Both times has worked perfectly. No breakage yet either. I am going to be working on the rear sheet metal this week, working on getting the rear quarter guards made and some inner fender wells welded back in.

I drove it to work and back all last week just for the hell of it. I get a lot of looks, not sure if they're "that's sick!" or "what the hell is that thing!" looks. But looks nonetheless.

I found the wierd idle issue, broken vacuum line, fixed her and she runs great again.

Tow rigs been doing great. I am actually impressed for having the smaller 4.6 v8, drop it in second, about 4k rpm, will hold 60 just fine.

Updates coming this week for sure as I get it ready for Moab on the 16th.

Last edited by X1994J; Sep 7, 2010 at 10:51 AM.
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Old Sep 7, 2010 | 10:59 AM
  #233  
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From: Eagle Mountain, Utah
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by sandaddik2
nice build.. do you have more pics of the rear link set up and what did you do with your exhaust? im in cali so i cant just hack off the cat or anything
I will be figuring out the exhaust this week sometime. I'll post pics when it's done. Most guys go through the floor to get their 4-link numbers accurate. Mine is working just great for me, I have no issues whatsoever.

Here's a few pics of the link mounts and what not...

The frame side brackets are all the same, the uppers are just turned horizontal.
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The coil mounts are from Ballistic fabrication.

The upper mounts on the truss are just simple tabs boxed in for strength.
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Last edited by X1994J; Sep 7, 2010 at 10:57 PM.
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 02:29 PM
  #234  
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From: Eagle Mountain, Utah
Year: 1994
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I'm stealing a couple of Stratton's videos from MOnday...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AgzWq...ayer_embedded#!




We had some good times!

Last edited by X1994J; Sep 8, 2010 at 02:49 PM.
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 02:58 PM
  #235  
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From: Hesperia
Year: 89
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Engine: 4.0
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i do like seeing a 4 link thats practical without the uppers sticking thru the floor. i like that you made what fits but why didnt you make a cross member like the clayton set up?
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 03:01 PM
  #236  
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Originally Posted by sandaddik2
i do like seeing a 4 link thats practical without the uppers sticking thru the floor. i like that you made what fits but why didnt you make a cross member like the clayton set up?
What part of the Clayton cross member are you referring to?
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 03:15 PM
  #237  
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Originally Posted by X1994J
What part of the Clayton cross member are you referring to?
their rear 4 link kit has a cross member that iirc welds into place. basically like a long arm kit but for the rear end.

i was just curious why you chose to make it the way you did vs making a cross member at the frame end
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 03:22 PM
  #238  
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From: Eagle Mountain, Utah
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Originally Posted by sandaddik2
their rear 4 link kit has a cross member that iirc welds into place. basically like a long arm kit but for the rear end.

i was just curious why you chose to make it the way you did vs making a cross member at the frame end

Looks like their cross member is for double triangulated setups. The coil buckets I bought from Ballistic wouldnt really work with that setup without cutting them up, and really that looks like a lot more work. Mine is much more simple than that.
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 04:15 PM
  #239  
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From: MA
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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wow it looks amazing and performs really nice thus far!
I am jealous

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Old Sep 9, 2010 | 11:09 AM
  #240  
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Originally Posted by Brian
wow it looks amazing and performs really nice thus far!
I am jealous

Thanks man. It really is fun to drive. I can beat on it harder than I ever did before, and not worry nearly as much. I haven't broken anything in two outings, I don't remember the last time I made two trips in a row without some wrenching.

I am headed to moab on the sixteenth for three days of wheeling so I've been trying to tie up a few more loose ends. The biggest thing I want fixed before the trip is the rear wheel wells back together. It was ridiculous how much dust they let in while wheeling on labor Day.

I originally planned to order a set of wheel tubs from jegs to weld in, but I really did not want to drop the coin on those, there's other things I want way more than pretty wheel tubs. So... I snagged a 55 galllon drum from work yesterday. I know, I know. As redneck as it may be, it's free, and works just the same. Measured my width out to be about 15 inches, just wide enough to keep the shock tower out of the cabin and in the wheel well. Started mocking it up, trimming to fit, here's how far I got last last night.

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Turning out good so far.
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