Project "Turquoise Medallion" 94' XJ
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Joined: Jan 2010
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From: South Louisiana
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
where'd you find those end links? i checked tractor supply and couldn't find anything! i'd like to make my own disco's if it makes $ sense vs just buying some already done. help! lol
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From: Eagle Mountain, Utah
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
http://www.mcmaster.com/#heim-joints/=8jjlme
Def. makes sense to make your own!
Last edited by X1994J; Aug 24, 2010 at 08:17 AM.
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From: South Louisiana
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Questions for you. I'd like to go full width on mine. Do you drive it on the street? How fast have you gotten it up to? How's it handle? Mine is my DD but keep in mind that I MAYBE put 10k a year on it and that's a busy year. Thanks!
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From: Ft. Collins, Co
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
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From: Eagle Mountain, Utah
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have driven it on the street up to about 45 mph so far. The faster I go the smoother it seems to get. It seems to handle fine for what it is, coils on all corners with no sway bars. I DD it before on 8" lift and 35's and it was ok. The 38's would definitely suck to DD i think. If I get a set of all -terrains in a 35" tire I think I could daily drive it pretty easily. Not sure about 10K a year streetable, but it is streetable. I am going to install the flares on the rear tonight, start modifying the mud flaps to fit with the new rear axle position. Hopefully get it inspected next week.
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Joined: Jan 2010
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From: South Louisiana
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Cool. I know I wanna go full widths eventually so I really don't wanna waste money on the D30 or changing out the D35 so I'll just start looking for axles. Thanks man
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From: Eagle Mountain, Utah
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Well i've had it out a couple more times. Both times has worked perfectly. No breakage yet either. I am going to be working on the rear sheet metal this week, working on getting the rear quarter guards made and some inner fender wells welded back in.
I drove it to work and back all last week just for the hell of it. I get a lot of looks, not sure if they're "that's sick!" or "what the hell is that thing!" looks.
But looks nonetheless.
I found the wierd idle issue, broken vacuum line, fixed her and she runs great again.
Tow rigs been doing great. I am actually impressed for having the smaller 4.6 v8, drop it in second, about 4k rpm, will hold 60 just fine.
Updates coming this week for sure as I get it ready for Moab on the 16th.
I drove it to work and back all last week just for the hell of it. I get a lot of looks, not sure if they're "that's sick!" or "what the hell is that thing!" looks.
But looks nonetheless.I found the wierd idle issue, broken vacuum line, fixed her and she runs great again.
Tow rigs been doing great. I am actually impressed for having the smaller 4.6 v8, drop it in second, about 4k rpm, will hold 60 just fine.
Updates coming this week for sure as I get it ready for Moab on the 16th.
Last edited by X1994J; Sep 7, 2010 at 10:51 AM.
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From: Eagle Mountain, Utah
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Here's a few pics of the link mounts and what not...
The frame side brackets are all the same, the uppers are just turned horizontal.

The coil mounts are from Ballistic fabrication.
The upper mounts on the truss are just simple tabs boxed in for strength.
Last edited by X1994J; Sep 7, 2010 at 10:57 PM.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Eagle Mountain, Utah
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'm stealing a couple of Stratton's videos from MOnday...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AgzWq...ayer_embedded#!
We had some good times!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AgzWq...ayer_embedded#!
We had some good times!
Last edited by X1994J; Sep 8, 2010 at 02:49 PM.
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,021
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From: Hesperia
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i do like seeing a 4 link thats practical without the uppers sticking thru the floor. i like that you made what fits but why didnt you make a cross member like the clayton set up?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Eagle Mountain, Utah
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Former Sponsor
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,021
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From: Hesperia
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
their rear 4 link kit has a cross member that iirc welds into place. basically like a long arm kit but for the rear end.
i was just curious why you chose to make it the way you did vs making a cross member at the frame end
i was just curious why you chose to make it the way you did vs making a cross member at the frame end
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From: Eagle Mountain, Utah
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Looks like their cross member is for double triangulated setups. The coil buckets I bought from Ballistic wouldnt really work with that setup without cutting them up, and really that looks like a lot more work. Mine is much more simple than that.
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Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Eagle Mountain, Utah
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thanks man. It really is fun to drive. I can beat on it harder than I ever did before, and not worry nearly as much. I haven't broken anything in two outings, I don't remember the last time I made two trips in a row without some wrenching.
I am headed to moab on the sixteenth for three days of wheeling so I've been trying to tie up a few more loose ends. The biggest thing I want fixed before the trip is the rear wheel wells back together. It was ridiculous how much dust they let in while wheeling on labor Day.
I originally planned to order a set of wheel tubs from jegs to weld in, but I really did not want to drop the coin on those, there's other things I want way more than pretty wheel tubs. So... I snagged a 55 galllon drum from work yesterday.
I know, I know. As redneck as it may be, it's free, and works just the same. Measured my width out to be about 15 inches, just wide enough to keep the shock tower out of the cabin and in the wheel well. Started mocking it up, trimming to fit, here's how far I got last last night.



Turning out good so far.
I am headed to moab on the sixteenth for three days of wheeling so I've been trying to tie up a few more loose ends. The biggest thing I want fixed before the trip is the rear wheel wells back together. It was ridiculous how much dust they let in while wheeling on labor Day.
I originally planned to order a set of wheel tubs from jegs to weld in, but I really did not want to drop the coin on those, there's other things I want way more than pretty wheel tubs. So... I snagged a 55 galllon drum from work yesterday.
I know, I know. As redneck as it may be, it's free, and works just the same. Measured my width out to be about 15 inches, just wide enough to keep the shock tower out of the cabin and in the wheel well. Started mocking it up, trimming to fit, here's how far I got last last night.


Turning out good so far.



