Lowes

Cleaning up some parts. I would like to try the Liberty rear lower control arms on my front. I cut off the square part on top of the arm and clean it up for my son to paint. The Woody is my 10 year old son's Jeep. His favorite color is orange so after cleaning he painted them up. Before and after control arms:

Lowes

This is the way I welded up my Rear spider gears.
I wrapped the ring with copper telephone cable sheath. ( I work for the phone company) I also stuffed copper in the spline area for the axle. I did this to allow the axles to still slide in and out. One thing happens then another. I also installed new seals and outer bearings. My Christmas present was a harbor freight 20 ton press.
I started by cutting the bearing race and collar. After doing the first I realized I could press off the bearing with some creative placement of some flat metal between race and bearing. It's a learning process buy after 25 years I she deserves new bearings.

I am now at a stand still as the inner seal was part number 481837 Fedral Mogul. I removed the inner seal made of RTV silicone. the parts store seal does not fit snug on the axle It has a 1/16 gap around it. But it is to large for the axle housing. I have been trying to figure out the right solution.
I have always thought the gear oil would better lube the outer bearings than just grease. I have been reading some debate on this. If the outer seal fails contaminants could get in the diff fluid.
My thought is with proper wheeling maintenance such as changing fluid often when in water, and mud it should not be a problem.

t3k

dude i cant wait to get my new jeep so i can start working on it. your jeep is coming a long nicely keep it up and keep the pictures coming

Lowes

Thanks. I am holding myself back from putting in the new lower control arms. I have never seen any one do this. I know I will have to get new uppers as well, but I think I will fight that battle once I'm there. I'm looking for a donor Jeep for the floor.

The Rooster

i believe you can buy floor pans pretty cheap...

t3k

why cant you just get something like a hood or something to repair the floors its the same metal and probably a lot cheaper to buy cut and mold then buying the actual floor pans but they arnt that exp iirc. as for the lca they dont look any longer then like rc lca for a 3.5 inch lift will they push the axle out that much further then stock?

Lowes

I can get metal, and just pound it in place. More than likely that is what will happen. Also some added stiffness to the unibody rail.
The lower control arms are 171/2" center eye to center eye. A little longer than I like. By this chart I would set up something like a 7" lift. Not something I'm going to do for a short arm.
I picked up the arms as they were free. Chrysler had a recall that said they must change them out as they may rust. Looking at them they look much stronger than the stamped stock XJ front lowers. They are tubed and welded. Lift...........Lower Control Arms/Upper Control Arms
********Decimal**Fraction**Decimal**Fraction
Stock........15.75.......15 ¾........15.00.......15
2”.............15.92.......16............14.88 .... ...15
3”.............16.09.......16............14.92 .... ...15
4”.............16.33.......16 3/8......15.03.......15
4.5”..........16.47.......16 ½........15.11.......15
5”.............16.62.......16 5/8......15.21.......15 ¼
6”.............16.97.......17............15.44 .... ...15 ½
7”.............17.36.......17 3/8......15.74.......15 ¾
8”.............17.81.......17 ¾........16.09.......16
9”.............18.30.......18 ¼........16.50.......16 ½
10”...........18.82.......18 ¾........16.96.......17

Lowes

I have been working with the Liberty control arms. With only my 3" lift the control arms pushed the axle a to far forward. I did not like the way the springs set. I would also need to purchase new uppers so this part of the project will be halted.
The Rear is all back together. I will learn from my mistakes and make sure to permanently mark the bearing caps. A sharpie will not last.
Now it's time to tackle the rust. I am still debating on the best approach . I was wanting a parts jeep, for the floor pans, but have not been able to come up with one when I need it.

Lowes

I happy. The task that I put off the most is done. The floors are solid and lined. Now to do some fun stuff like bumpers lift etc.
Here is how I fixed my floors. I could buy new floor pans, however I would need to buy all three section. The rust was just in front of the rear wheels, then along rocker.
Like a true Jeep guru when presented with a problem make the most of it. I ended up reinforcing it more than ever when she was new.

Cutting out the old seat brace to get access to rusty area to cut away for solid metal

Notching inner body to expose previous built rocker.

Installing flat metal to span rocker to spring perch.

2x4 box tube bracing from rocker, spring perch, frame and inner tunnel

Lowes

I used 3/16 thick flat metal welded to 2x4 box tube then to outer rocker.
The challanging part was to form some sort of curve for rear wheels.
I work for the phone company so the metal Pedestal boxes are all over the scrap pile. I took advantage of the curve then bent it with vise. tack welded the outer then pounded it into place then cut and fold to weld to frame.

Lowes

I used some fiberglass reinforced filler to fill the welded voids and smooth things out. 3M seam sealer to coat the seams.
Two coats of bedliner cover up the mess.

I little fun driving on the mulch pile.

crbnfibr

that really looks like some NY cancer... might wanna look into that s.. someone said something about salt... sounds like bs to me tho

Lowes

In true XJ nature to have parts vehicle.

Lowes

We have cancer In MO also. I never did a car fax on woody, but I'm sure it's hit some salt in its day. The drivers floor boards are solid. I think it's just the age, design, wet carpet

Bush League 96 XJ

The new floors look solid! You should replace your factory rockers with rectangular square stock. High clearance rock sliders!