"Project Mirkwood - My $500 find"
#151
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Oh yeah, they're pretty straight forward. I didn't need any sealant for the drivers swap, it was well gummed up from the other door still.
#152
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I don't think the water is getting by from the inside, so I don't think more sealant is the issue. Seems like it's just barely getting past the seal and then collecting on top of it at the bottom.
#153
That's interesting I wonder where it's coming into the vehicle beyond the seal. I know mine leaks like that and runs down onto floor puddling up. The reason for this is becuase (1) my door is not completly lined up properly I still need to adjust it but then (2) the seals are old and I'm not 100% sure they are cracked beacuse I didn't want to remove them yet but I'm sure it has a lot to do with it. No other way for water to enter on the door side if it wern't.
If your's is like mine on the drives door areas along the front windshield pillars you will have a rubber seal that attaches to the pillars. That is seperate from the gasket that runs around door frame. Just open your door and look on the pillar attahed to front windshield but inside the door frame area. If you see nothing maybe those are missing or maybe yours was not equipped with it.
If your's is like mine on the drives door areas along the front windshield pillars you will have a rubber seal that attaches to the pillars. That is seperate from the gasket that runs around door frame. Just open your door and look on the pillar attahed to front windshield but inside the door frame area. If you see nothing maybe those are missing or maybe yours was not equipped with it.
#155
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
If your's is like mine on the drives door areas along the front windshield pillars you will have a rubber seal that attaches to the pillars. That is seperate from the gasket that runs around door frame. Just open your door and look on the pillar attahed to front windshield but inside the door frame area. If you see nothing maybe those are missing or maybe yours was not equipped with it.
I think I have the non door frame seal you're talking about. It's like a foot long individual seal that runs on the a-pillar. It seems to be in good shape.
#156
Yes it was the foot long A-pillar seal I was referring to. So you don't have one? I honestly don't know if your removed those if it makes any difference anyhow. I only asked about your doors being lined up becuase I thought my drivers was knowing and seeing it shut perfect and looked lined up but what I didn't notice was a small gap near the top where light was protruding meaning it was not flush against the door frame gasket.
#157
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I replaced my front brake pads and rotors yesterday. I was suprised to see that the inner brake pad (on the passenger side) was pretty much stuck in a worn indention on the knuckle.
This is why the left caliper felt like it was sticking....the inner brake was stuck in those square slots that were worn into the knuckle.
I can't believe that there isn't a stainless slide for the pads to ride on; its weird that the just ride all sloppy like on the bare steel.
My welder is out of wire so I just broke out the dremel and smoothed the bad spots down. In hind sight I should have waited till I could weld it, but I wanted to be able to test it with a quick drive. It works good, but I'll either need new knuckles down the road or need to build it back up with some welds.
Overall it's a pretty good win for the day.
I went with the premium (harder) rotor and a metallic (softer) brake pad for better grip on the trail.
This is why the left caliper felt like it was sticking....the inner brake was stuck in those square slots that were worn into the knuckle.
I can't believe that there isn't a stainless slide for the pads to ride on; its weird that the just ride all sloppy like on the bare steel.
My welder is out of wire so I just broke out the dremel and smoothed the bad spots down. In hind sight I should have waited till I could weld it, but I wanted to be able to test it with a quick drive. It works good, but I'll either need new knuckles down the road or need to build it back up with some welds.
Overall it's a pretty good win for the day.
I went with the premium (harder) rotor and a metallic (softer) brake pad for better grip on the trail.
#158
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I'm pretty angry (frusterated) with the jeep today. I still cant figure out why the headlights aren't working.
I really just want to take the damn thing to the gas station to fill it up and drive around for a half hour. I have a crap load of wrench time into her and can't drive in the dark or rain right now. Since I get home just after five and it's winter, that just about means never.
I'm just ranting
I really just want to take the damn thing to the gas station to fill it up and drive around for a half hour. I have a crap load of wrench time into her and can't drive in the dark or rain right now. Since I get home just after five and it's winter, that just about means never.
I'm just ranting
#159
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Yes it was the foot long A-pillar seal I was referring to. So you don't have one? I honestly don't know if your removed those if it makes any difference anyhow. I only asked about your doors being lined up becuase I thought my drivers was knowing and seeing it shut perfect and looked lined up but what I didn't notice was a small gap near the top where light was protruding meaning it was not flush against the door frame gasket.
But I'll now that you said you could see light above your door, I'll have to go double check for that.
#160
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
On another annoying side note - Super Brite Led sent me all the wrong stuff.
1) My red led cluster back lights turned out to be blue in stead of red.
2) My overhead console lights are 44 festoon with capped ends, but they sent the loop end style.
3) The lights for the foot well courtesy lights are too small for the socket.
So don't trust their vehicle bulb finder, it's obviously not worth a crap. I requested a exchange on the dash lights and a return on the other two styles. Now I have to figure out where to print a return shipping lable.
I decided to go to their competition for the interior lights, but since One Way Lights doesnt do the dash lights I opted just to try an exchange with superbrite.com I got to admit the Blue is pretty nice, but i really want the red. I hope try number two works better from Superbriteled.com
1) My red led cluster back lights turned out to be blue in stead of red.
2) My overhead console lights are 44 festoon with capped ends, but they sent the loop end style.
3) The lights for the foot well courtesy lights are too small for the socket.
So don't trust their vehicle bulb finder, it's obviously not worth a crap. I requested a exchange on the dash lights and a return on the other two styles. Now I have to figure out where to print a return shipping lable.
I decided to go to their competition for the interior lights, but since One Way Lights doesnt do the dash lights I opted just to try an exchange with superbrite.com I got to admit the Blue is pretty nice, but i really want the red. I hope try number two works better from Superbriteled.com
#161
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Year: 01
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I'm pretty angry (frusterated) with the jeep today. I still cant figure out why the headlights aren't working.
I really just want to take the damn thing to the gas station to fill it up and drive around for a half hour. I have a crap load of wrench time into her and can't drive in the dark or rain right now. Since I get home just after five and it's winter, that just about means never.
I'm just ranting
I really just want to take the damn thing to the gas station to fill it up and drive around for a half hour. I have a crap load of wrench time into her and can't drive in the dark or rain right now. Since I get home just after five and it's winter, that just about means never.
I'm just ranting
#162
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
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I don't know which wires are which. I know the switch turns on the running lights, makes it ding if I have the **** pulled out when I have the key out, turns om the overheadlights on when turned all the way, and and will dim the dash lights. But I don't have power at any of the four headlight fuses
#163
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I don't know which wires are which. I know the switch turns on the running lights, makes it ding if I have the **** pulled out when I have the key out, turns om the overheadlights on when turned all the way, and and will dim the dash lights. But I don't have power at any of the four headlight fuses
I would get a haynes manual and start tracing wires.
Find where the power comes in, make sure you have that first and work from there looking where it stops.
It may be as simple as a loose ground.
Do the parking lights come on?
will the high beams flash when you pull on the blinker stalk?
#164
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Hard to diagnose over the internet.
I would get a haynes manual and start tracing wires.
Find where the power comes in, make sure you have that first and work from there looking where it stops.
It may be as simple as a loose ground.
Do the parking lights come on?
will the high beams flash when you pull on the blinker stalk?
I would get a haynes manual and start tracing wires.
Find where the power comes in, make sure you have that first and work from there looking where it stops.
It may be as simple as a loose ground.
Do the parking lights come on?
will the high beams flash when you pull on the blinker stalk?
Everything works as normal except headlights of any sort and the high beam indicator on the dash. Since the high beam indicator doesnt work, it's either at or before the C201 connector under the dash...... meaning it's probably a bad wire/connector, the headlight selector on the column, or the dash headlight switch. I have power at the 30a #7 fuse in the pdc so my problem is most likely in the cab.
I don't get cell service in the shop so it's hard to do research whole troubleshooting. Also, I was lost on which order of things the power went to first vs last. I think I'm getting the path figured out now.
Last edited by Kevin Miller; 02-01-2018 at 03:55 PM.
#165
You did ensure the headlights were good right? Not trying to sound funny but if you didn't check them maybe swap with ones that you do know work. Suppose that doesn't matter because if your not getting power to the headlamp harness plug in nose of vehicle then its defiantly not the headlamps.