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Old 01-30-2018, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by XJIrish4x4
Was the seal for door pretty straightforward? Did lay down any 3M sealant adhesive to make the seal sit in proper spot and not move?
Oh yeah, they're pretty straight forward. I didn't need any sealant for the drivers swap, it was well gummed up from the other door still.
Old 01-30-2018, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by XJIrish4x4
The seals are pretty cheap you could order a couple new ones but if the old ones are not ripped perhaps like I said above they need some sealant to keep them pressed on and not allow any water intrusion.
I saw some on quadretec for like $45 each, I might do that since my swapped one still had a tiny hole and they are all probably 20yrs old anyhow.

I don't think the water is getting by from the inside, so I don't think more sealant is the issue. Seems like it's just barely getting past the seal and then collecting on top of it at the bottom.
Old 01-30-2018, 07:35 PM
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That's interesting I wonder where it's coming into the vehicle beyond the seal. I know mine leaks like that and runs down onto floor puddling up. The reason for this is becuase (1) my door is not completly lined up properly I still need to adjust it but then (2) the seals are old and I'm not 100% sure they are cracked beacuse I didn't want to remove them yet but I'm sure it has a lot to do with it. No other way for water to enter on the door side if it wern't.

If your's is like mine on the drives door areas along the front windshield pillars you will have a rubber seal that attaches to the pillars. That is seperate from the gasket that runs around door frame. Just open your door and look on the pillar attahed to front windshield but inside the door frame area. If you see nothing maybe those are missing or maybe yours was not equipped with it.
Old 01-30-2018, 07:35 PM
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Removed duplicate sorry about that.

Last edited by XJIrish4x4; 01-30-2018 at 07:37 PM. Reason: duplicate
Old 01-31-2018, 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by XJIrish4x4

If your's is like mine on the drives door areas along the front windshield pillars you will have a rubber seal that attaches to the pillars. That is seperate from the gasket that runs around door frame. Just open your door and look on the pillar attahed to front windshield but inside the door frame area. If you see nothing maybe those are missing or maybe yours was not equipped with it.
I'm pretty sure my doors are lined up correctly and I'm thinking my seals might just be worn out.

I think I have the non door frame seal you're talking about. It's like a foot long individual seal that runs on the a-pillar. It seems to be in good shape.
Old 01-31-2018, 11:12 PM
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Yes it was the foot long A-pillar seal I was referring to. So you don't have one? I honestly don't know if your removed those if it makes any difference anyhow. I only asked about your doors being lined up becuase I thought my drivers was knowing and seeing it shut perfect and looked lined up but what I didn't notice was a small gap near the top where light was protruding meaning it was not flush against the door frame gasket.
Old 01-31-2018, 11:29 PM
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I replaced my front brake pads and rotors yesterday. I was suprised to see that the inner brake pad (on the passenger side) was pretty much stuck in a worn indention on the knuckle.
This is why the left caliper felt like it was sticking....the inner brake was stuck in those square slots that were worn into the knuckle.


I can't believe that there isn't a stainless slide for the pads to ride on; its weird that the just ride all sloppy like on the bare steel.



My welder is out of wire so I just broke out the dremel and smoothed the bad spots down. In hind sight I should have waited till I could weld it, but I wanted to be able to test it with a quick drive. It works good, but I'll either need new knuckles down the road or need to build it back up with some welds.

Overall it's a pretty good win for the day.
I went with the premium (harder) rotor and a metallic (softer) brake pad for better grip on the trail.
Old 01-31-2018, 11:37 PM
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I'm pretty angry (frusterated) with the jeep today. I still cant figure out why the headlights aren't working.

​​​I really just want to take the damn thing to the gas station to fill it up and drive around for a half hour. I have a crap load of wrench time into her and can't drive in the dark or rain right now. Since I get home just after five and it's winter, that just about means never.

I'm just ranting
Old 02-01-2018, 01:52 AM
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Originally Posted by XJIrish4x4
Yes it was the foot long A-pillar seal I was referring to. So you don't have one? I honestly don't know if your removed those if it makes any difference anyhow. I only asked about your doors being lined up becuase I thought my drivers was knowing and seeing it shut perfect and looked lined up but what I didn't notice was a small gap near the top where light was protruding meaning it was not flush against the door frame gasket.
No, I meant I do have those foot long ones.

But I'll now that you said you could see light above your door, I'll have to go double check for that.
Old 02-01-2018, 02:10 AM
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On another annoying side note - Super Brite Led sent me all the wrong stuff.
1) My red led cluster back lights turned out to be blue in stead of red.
2) My overhead console lights are 44 festoon with capped ends, but they sent the loop end style.
3) The lights for the foot well courtesy lights are too small for the socket.

So don't trust their vehicle bulb finder, it's obviously not worth a crap. I requested a exchange on the dash lights and a return on the other two styles. Now I have to figure out where to print a return shipping lable.

I decided to go to their competition for the interior lights, but since One Way Lights doesnt do the dash lights I opted just to try an exchange with superbrite.com I got to admit the Blue is pretty nice, but i really want the red. I hope try number two works better from Superbriteled.com

​​​
Old 02-01-2018, 06:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Kevin Miller
I'm pretty angry (frusterated) with the jeep today. I still cant figure out why the headlights aren't working.

​​​I really just want to take the damn thing to the gas station to fill it up and drive around for a half hour. I have a crap load of wrench time into her and can't drive in the dark or rain right now. Since I get home just after five and it's winter, that just about means never.

I'm just ranting
You getting power to the switch, then back out of the switch?
Old 02-01-2018, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by thetastelingers
You getting power to the switch, then back out of the switch?
I don't know which wires are which. I know the switch turns on the running lights, makes it ding if I have the **** pulled out when I have the key out, turns om the overheadlights on when turned all the way, and and will dim the dash lights. But I don't have power at any of the four headlight fuses
Old 02-01-2018, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevin Miller
I don't know which wires are which. I know the switch turns on the running lights, makes it ding if I have the **** pulled out when I have the key out, turns om the overheadlights on when turned all the way, and and will dim the dash lights. But I don't have power at any of the four headlight fuses
Hard to diagnose over the internet.

I would get a haynes manual and start tracing wires.
Find where the power comes in, make sure you have that first and work from there looking where it stops.
It may be as simple as a loose ground.
Do the parking lights come on?
will the high beams flash when you pull on the blinker stalk?
Old 02-01-2018, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by thetastelingers
Hard to diagnose over the internet.

I would get a haynes manual and start tracing wires.
Find where the power comes in, make sure you have that first and work from there looking where it stops.
It may be as simple as a loose ground.
Do the parking lights come on?
will the high beams flash when you pull on the blinker stalk?
lol, I thought I had the hanynes for it. Turns out its for a Grand Cherokee. I guess last month when I bought a bunch of stuff I didn't double check it when they sold it to me. My bad That was an hour or so of last night's confusion.



Everything works as normal except headlights of any sort and the high beam indicator on the dash. Since the high beam indicator doesnt work, it's either at or before the C201 connector under the dash...... meaning it's probably a bad wire/connector, the headlight selector on the column, or the dash headlight switch. I have power at the 30a #7 fuse in the pdc so my problem is most likely in the cab.

I don't get cell service in the shop so it's hard to do research whole troubleshooting. Also, I was lost on which order of things the power went to first vs last. I think I'm getting the path figured out now.

Last edited by Kevin Miller; 02-01-2018 at 03:55 PM.
Old 02-01-2018, 10:20 PM
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You did ensure the headlights were good right? Not trying to sound funny but if you didn't check them maybe swap with ones that you do know work. Suppose that doesn't matter because if your not getting power to the headlamp harness plug in nose of vehicle then its defiantly not the headlamps.



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