Project: Keeping It Clean
 

After having built a buggy, I've been longing for something simple again, to be able to enjoy the light wheeling, going camping (not because I'm wheeling), longer trips out again.

I've been through all the hoops of an XJ, and after building this:

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This XJ should be a walk in the park...or so I "thought".

I'd been thinking about something with maybe 4.5" of lift and 32's, keeping it nice and clean. Well, a close friend of mine Sam (zluster on NAXJA), had bought an XJ at auction as a flip (repair and resell). Well, I'd always liked the Jeep (and it was in one of my top 3 colors - Patriot Blue), and had what I was looking for: Low miles, already had a 4.5" Full BDS Lift kit, and more.

So, after selling one XJ that I had for a while, I picked this up from him, since after a few years he hadn't had the time to get it fixed (since he had a real job now).

So enters, the new to me 2001 (and still the newest vehicle I've ever owned).

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Specs:
- 2001 XJ - Patriot Blue
- ~105k miles
- Moab 16" wheels
- Brown Dog Motor Mounts
- Newer Aluminum Radiator
- BDS 4.5" Lift Kit
- HP D30 Swapped

Now, from that picture, all looks pretty good? Well, the fact of the matter is there was some pretty good damage to the passenger side. It looks like the previous owner (prior to Sam), had hit something hard enough with the front right tire to shove it up into the wheel well far enough that it cause some frame and floorwell damage, bent the upper arm mount on that side, and killed the LPD30.

So, I fixed the crossmember mount for Sam (before I bought it), he had done some other work, and swapped in a HP D30.

From there, it's all on me.

Since I've had this for a while, I've been able to acquire parts for...a lot less than MSRP mostly. I'll chronical some of it through the build.

As some know, I'm *rather* anal retentive. I don't like shoddy work, and this build won't be any different. I plan on doing some things a little different, with small touches that make a difference. After building the buggy, other than sheetmetal work...this will be a nice relaxation from custom one off everything :D.

Build plans for this rig (as of this post):

Front HP D30:
- Artec Truss - Acquired
- Zip Locker
- 4.10's
- Ten Factory Axle Seals - Acquired
- WJ Steering Setup - Have several parts acquired
- SOLID Diff Cover - Acquired
- New Coil buckets and LCA's (not quite like most setups however)

Rear: Ford 8.8 (Has 4.10's, Discs, and LSD)
- Complete new brakes
- Artec Truss - Acquired
- SOLID Diff Cover - Acquired
- Shock Mounts - Acquired
- TNT U-Bolt Eliminators - Acquired

Tires:
265/75R16 Goodyear Duratracs on 16" Moabs - Acquired

Other:
- 231J w/ SYE - Came with on rig
- Tera 2Low - Need to pull it out of donor case
- Boostwerks Hidden Winch Comp Mount - On my shelf :D
- Dirtbound Rear DIY Bumper (no cut/fold) - Acquired
- Dirtbound Front DIY Bumper - Acquired
- Smittybilt 8k winch w/ synthetic - Acquired
- Full Interior Sound deadening using three stage system (CLD + CCF + MLV)
- Bilstein 5150's front - Acquired
- Bilstein rears
- Tomken Gas Tank Skid - Acquired
- Offroad Armor Rock Rails - Acquired but will have to see if they'll work

So yeah, I've got a buttload of parts sitting in my upper deck area on the shop, ready to go on and get me some more room finally. I know I'm missing some of what I've got sitting up there, but I'll get around to it...

So, a bit went on between the time I acquired the rig, and now.

Bought a house, continued to wheel, work on and build the buggy, and go married.

This was originally to be the wife's rig, but she now has a '96. This will allow us to take both out, the dogs, and get her back into wheeling (since we have two dogs she doesn't come out on buggy trips much at all).

So, from where I started, until today, unfortunately has been the bulk of the work. To make matters worse, this isn't the sexy, step back and go "hell yeah!" work...this has been getting it to square one-ish...bodywork.

So, I'll let pictures do some talking.

What I started out with. You can see how far that tire got pushed into the wheel well:

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It's hard to tell somewhat from the pictures, but the frame in that area had seen better days. So what were the plans? Cutting, replacing, a bit of massaging, and frame stiffeners.

Mind you, I wanted this to be body shop good, with no body shop skills :rofl:

I refused to cut corners, and take my time. I won't lie, I've got probably over a hundred hours into this thing already from just bodywork.

Luckily, Sam had a donor XJ he was keeping at my house for a few, before he got a few more things off it and we took it to scrap. So, I robbed the section of floorboard I needed.

From there, LOTS of cutting, measuring (repeat that about 13454 times), welding, and so on.

So, first things first was some cutting to get at the root of things:

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Removed the LCA brackets with a spot weld bit, and you can kind of see the frame wrinkles in these pictures:

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I was able to use my oxy/acetylene torch, some hammers, and some hydraulics to get things pretty well smoothed back out, and looking good. Next was prep for the Passenger side frame stiffener. I used IRO, but had Josh at Hooligan had his released when I bought these, I would have gone with him.

Prep for the frame stiffener. Bright Idea to mark with a paint pen where paint needed to be removed to weld. Well, with my weld on primer that wasn't too bright of an idea.

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This stuff is what I'm surprised I don't see more people using. Yeah, it's expensive at $30 a can, but so is replacing stuff because it's rusting from the inside out. Everything I do around this, get a coat of this stuff. Do it right once, and be DONE! :D

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Getting bent up (wish they came bent to match, that's a PITA):

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Prepped (Inside Surface):

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And mounted/welded (it's been a while since I've welded to the unibody, got better as time went on):

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There were some fitment issues that had to be dealt with, some from the frame still, and never going to be, 100%, and then the stiffeners ran a little long in the flat plane on the bottom.

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All cleaned up (Flap Disc'd and Self Etching primer)

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Threw on some color match paint and called it done, for now.

While that looked like "quick" work, that was probably several straight days of work to get to that point.

NOW came the time consumer...getting the floorboard and surrounding areas fixed.

The pinch seam had been pushed in, the trans tunnel had some waves on the passenger side, it was...hell.

Interior brace of the frame rail cut out for massaging:

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Redone with a thicker brace, all weld primed:

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Then came the inner area and pinch seam. originally, I had planned on trying to pull this out and massage it some, since a bit of it would be covered by the fender.

Well, I decided against that and off I went...trying to be a body shop guy since I don't like compromise :laugh:

Old piece cut out and new one beginning to be grafted in:

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Don't have a good complete pic at the moment it looks like. But that part took a while since I used a flashlight to find any and all pin holes, to make sure the weld seam was 100%.

Next came the floorboard...and what an adventure that was. This took some ingenuity, some bolts to hold things in areas...and more.

Prepped the floor, frame, and surrounding areas (the brace piece got stripped to primer and repainted, since some crap got on it while it was still wet. Yes, though it will never be seen again, I still repainted it).

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And then it began. Where I had weld seams, since I don't trust thin sheet metal to thin sheet metal, I also added double ups along the seams (everything weld primed).

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Starting to get cleaned up:

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Mostly complete with holes filled and things smoothed out:

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Next came copious amounts of seam sealer (on both sides). The bottom side of the floorboard and frame aren't really pictured, but lots of work on those sides as well.

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It then got a coat of color match paint (not pictured :D).

So now that the floor was done, I could move onto other things.

I decided that since some of the frame damage was between the horizontal and transition to front section, mid-frame stiffeners would be good :D

Took a drive to see Josh at Hooligan, and headed home with some stiffeners.

The fit on the passenger side was good, not perfect though (not from his stuff, from the frame issues).

The driver's side, fit like a glove.

The entire frame got stripped via flap disks down to bare metal, weld primered, and so on.

Welding the stiffeners is farrrr easier with a flexible weld neck :D

Everything on the driver's side looks better, since it got done second.

Driver's side front and mid stiffeners, as well as passenger side mid stiffener:

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Missing some pictures but the front and mid frame stiffeners got tied together with fish plates, and everything got a coat of self etching primer.

A TON of work, in a small series of photos :rofl:

So, that kinda sorta bring me to now. Those photos were a couple years worth of work time wise. As mentioned, quite a bit going on between those two.

Now, I plan on having this done by Spring, to get it out on the trails and have a 4x4 daily driver again.

It sat outside for a...while...while the buggy got some attention, and since the buggy lives where it's currently parked.

Got it pulled back in, and pulled all the interior out 100% (most of it was just sitting inside the rig disconnected, including the dash).

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Next steps are removing the sound deadening stuff that was OEM. (the foil backed pieces, as well as the trunk section and small sections over the wheel wells).

I made the mistake of trying this normally, forgot how tar-like this stuff is.

Then, I remember seeing some videos a couple months back...using Dry Ice and Isopropyl alcohol :D

Mix the two, pour it on top, and the stuff chisels right off. The foil backed stuff comes off FAR easier, but is still some work. The stuff in the trunk...the cracking of it is cool to hear, then it comes up in a matter of seconds.

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Old, crappy method:

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New, much quicker and cleaner method:

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So that's where I'm at now. I should have the small amount I have left pulled by the end of this weekend.

From there, it will get a full three stage sound deadening. Note, no matter how you do it (the proper way), its not cheap.

First to go down will be the CLD tiles. From there, closed cell foam and mass loaded vinyl. As well, door and headliner will receive (not right away) treatment including butyl rope and hydrophobic melamine. This will be the guinea pig before I do my tow rig at some point ('99 F-350 Superduty). The sound deadening will cost me in the neighborhood of $600+. I'm not using the generic Dynamat, Fatmat, etc.

Looks great!! and you said you weren't a bodyman.

Very smart doing the frame stiffners and sound deadening. Usually everyone starts with a BIG subwoofer in the back, ha.

Finally got the interior sound deadening for the floor and firewall complete.

I've got the headliner ready to drop down and get CLD tiles on the roof, and then back the headliner with 3M Thinsulate Acoustic.

The sound deadening wasn't too bad, just tedious and time consuming.

I can go into more detail, and my methods of doing it if anyone is interested.

It's much like the Sound Deadening Showdown method, with a couple tweaks that to me, made install easier and more efficient.

Pics:

Interior pretty well cleaned up, all OEM deadening and butyl tiles removed:

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CLD Tiles installed, sorry I realized this is the only picture I got. I wen't a little more overboard then really needed.

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While I'm doing the headliner, I've also got the Heater Box torn apart.

Going to make all new foam seals, and give it a good once over and clean up inside and out. I looked at the heater core, still looks just fine, and isn't clogged. No leaks on it, so it'll go back in. The evaporator looks great as well, so right now no changes to the heater box really needed.

Hoping to get the following done this week:

- Headliner/Roof sound deadening
- Rear Quarter sound deadening
- Heater Box Re-Installed
- All Carpet and Trim back in
- Dash re-installed.

From there, some exhaust stuff and fuel clean out and she should be ready to start up again!

Building the world's quietest Cherokee.

Yea wow I would say maybe over kill but honestly I like it I just wish I had the dedication to complete a tedius task like that. Well done!

That thing has more insulation then most new cars! I like it. Curious to see how it actually works out. Does that stuff have an adhesive backing or do you have to spray something on them to make them stick?

Something like that :yes:

Thanks! I'd say it's not really overkill, that would be another layer added on top. I'll be looking to do possibly two layers in my tow rig (7.3L F-350).

It works extremely well (well, at least as far as I've seen). This is the actual way sound deadening is meant to be done, not the stick on dyamat crap.

Nothing has adhesive except the velcro used to "hold" it in place. In many areas (floor) the velcro isn't exactly necessary, but helps it from moving on it's own.

Its Closed Cell Foam (CCF) in between the body and the Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV). The CLD tiles remove the vibration and resonance, the CCF acts as a barrier for the MLV which acts as the sound block. The CCF is very lightly tacked the the MLV with Vinyl Cement, just enough to hold it in place while installing. Then, where there are seams, you use strips of MLV to help create one solid barrier, without "leaks".

This link gives a pretty good outline, it's what I followed, until I found a way I preferred:

https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

Wow
 

Impressed I am..:) Nice job.;..where do you find the time...

Staying up working on it until Midnight or later helps.

This has to move quick, since I need the buggy back in...soon.

I can sleep later...just gotta get through a few months of lots of coffee.

Subbed. I'm sure this will be a good one

I was curious where you bought the CLD tiles from? Looking online but wanted to buy it in sheets if I could.

The link he provided in his post will show you the way. :yes:

https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.co...tiles%E2%84%A2

I like this. I saved the link for later, so I can do it as well.

Thanks!

I'll go ahead an outline everything :thumbup1:

Copy pasted from NAXJA:

So, to give a brief overview, the MLV and CCF are not really adhered to the body. The only thing holding them in place (and doing a rather fine job of it), are the physical weight and velcro strips.

First step is to strip the body down, and get it cleaned up. I first used a spray bottle and a shop vac to get up a bunch of dust and dirt. From there, it all got wiped down with mineral spirits.

Then came the CLD (Constrained Layer Dampening) tiles. These are a butyl back pieces, that have adhesive and get placed to cover ~25% (I went more, though I didn't really *need* to) to cut down on resonance and vibration. I used a knuckle method, knocking everywhere I could and applying the CLD in areas that sounded hollow, flexed more, etc.

One this is done, the real fun begins.

I cut the MLV in sections, making my way through the cab. Prior to pulling the MLV out, I would push against it and mark areas that were flat, so that double sided velcro would adhere. Once I had areas fitted and marked for where to place velcro, I pulled the MLV out.

Once it was out, I would lay it on the CCF and cut out a piece to match. Then, I cut 1" x 2" or so sections of velcro and placed them on the MLV as I had marked.

Then, feel through the CCF and mark where to cut holes for the velcro, and cut the holes out.

Use some Vinyl Cement, and add some small dabs to both in the same (mirrored) areas, and let cure until tacky. Then place them together and pat them center out, so that both pieces lay nice and flat.

From there, place it where it was, and strategically pull the other velcro adhesive cover off, and press in place.

Here's some pictures that might help:

MLV on bottom with velcro and some Vinyl Cement, Mirrored CCF on top with cements as well.

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Them put together and letting cure for a few minutes:

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From there, they get applied to look like this, before gap strips are placed:

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Now, for a materials list...

I kind of based my stuff off what Sound Deadener Showdown had (they have a list for XJ's, provided by someone who did it previously). I would highly recommend that site to anyone curious to get an idea, see pictures, etc. I would have gotten everything from there, but his prices are a bit higher, and the shipping was...a LOT.

As a note, I did a LOT, and I mean a LOT of shopping around. Here's what I went with.

CLD Tiles:

I looked around, and settled on the following, they've got good reviews around the web, and this isn't a high end car:

Noico 80 mil 36 sqft car Sound deadening mat

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got one. I *should* have enough to do the roof, doors, and hatch with what I have left.

$65.60

Mass Loaded Vinyl:

1lb/sqft, 1/8" thickness, Qty: 100 sqft.

I got mine for $154 shipped before some discount off eBay ($15 off $75 or more).

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1lb-Mass-Lo...4AAOSweW5U568c

I've still got a bit of roll left. In theory I could measure it by weight, as each sq. ft. is 1 lb.

That 100 lb. roll was a pain to move :laugh:

Closed Cell Foam:

There were quite a few places that were close, but I went through The Foam Factory (www.foambymail.com) .

Neoprene Foam Sheets
Density: High Quality
Thickness: 1/8" Thick
SheetSize: 80" x 48"
Qty. 5

$119.95

I also got the following for Heater Box Seals:

Cross Linked Polyethylene - 2LB
Thickness: 1"
SheetSize: 48" x 24"
Color: Charcoal
Qty. 1
$26.99

Velcro

I originally got one box, but actually ended up needing two (have lots of leftovers)

VELCRO Brand - Industrial Strength - 2" Wide Tape, 15' - White

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$19 each x 2 = $38

3M Thinsulate Acoustic

I got this for the roof and rear quarters. In reality it's good for wherever you can stuff it. What doesn't find it's way into the roof and rear quarters, will be used in the doors.

I got 10' x 5' of it, for 50 total feet. $136.62 before some of the same eBay discounts.

Here's the only place I could find it "retail". Looking around, this stuff is some of the best, of the best:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-Thinsula...72.m2749.l2649

Contact Cement

I got the stuff recommended by SDS, HH-66 Vinyl Contact Cement.

Cheapest I found it was Tarpstop.com, I got two since they were cheaper (in case).

$40.31 shipped.

Other things:
Butyle Rope (mainly for doors and hatch) - $16.90
Roller (for installing CLD) - $10

So, total cost currently is (not factoring in the eBay discounts): ~$607.75.

Yep, I realize that's far more that 99% of XJ owners are willing to spend, but for me the interior was already out, and I wanted a nice quiet rig. I'll be able to compare an "OEM" XJ (zluster's) to this one to see decibel difference. I also plan on running a Walker Quiet Flow as well. Installed one on the wife's '96, and I like it.

So there...expensive and a bit of work :laughing:

:thumbup1:

To have no bodyman experience, you sure did a good job. Looks like it straightened out nice. Anxious to see how it turns out

Very interested to hear your take on the difference compared to stock. Pulling my interior and have been trying to decide what route to take

My other concern was what to order. Comes in odd sizes and qty that simply didn't make sense to me or I'm just a idiot. I would have loved to order entire large roll of it then cut it down to what I need in certain places. Thinking its pretty damn expensive but maybe I'm wrong.

I listed above where I got mine an quantities, as well as pricing.

Old heater core out, with it's less than stellar foam seals:

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Torn apart:

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Back together with new foam seals, and cleaned up inside and out:

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Back in, and the dash hanging as of last night.

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The dash was still a little wet and from getting hosed off and cleaned earlier that day...so I moved onto stripping the engine:

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I've done enough of these I could do a head gasket in a day. This will just be a FULL Preventative Maintenance overhaul, outside of actually doing the head gasket.

Once I get my hot water line in the shop fixed, it will get pushed outside for a good engine bay clean down and coolant system flush.

Okay thanks sorry I must have missed that response. I will back up and take a look.

What did you use for the new foam seals on the HC? I have my new heater core ready to be put in and i'm just trying to get everything i possibly need to tackle this job.

I used this:

https://www.foambymail.com/XPE2/cros...-foam-2lb.html

1" thick in Charcoal color.

For the firewall, it's great.

For the HVAC stuff, it caused some pain in getting the heater core in, and then the dash. I'd say something more spongy than this (it compacts, but not as easily as the stock stuff) would be better. I had to trim the thickness on two of the gaskets to get it in, and the dash to sit right.

Well, I've been making some progress, getting the engine done over and taken care of.

Got a few hundred $ worth of stuff from Rock Auto and Advance, and got to work.

Things done this weekend:

- Engine bay cleaned up
- New Waterpump and Tube
- New Tstat Housing and T-stat
- New Heater Hoses
- New Valve Cover Gasket and Grommets
- New Exhaust Manifold and Intake/Exhaust Manifold Gasket
- Throttle Body gasket
- New Air Filter
- New Belt
- POR-15 and Paint in Areas
- New Alternator
- Battery Cable Upgrade Install

Still to do:

- Flush radiator
- Install Radiator and new hoses
- Install New Fan Shroud
- Install New Fuel Injector O-Rings

Engine bay pretty well stripped and ready for cleaning. Everything that comes out, gets scrubbed and clean. That includes mechanical and electric fans, air box, battery box, etc. etc.

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Intake Manifold needing a clean:

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I pushed it outside, and hooked up the pressure washer. I have hot water in my shop, plumbed from the house.

If you think a regular pressure washer is good at getting dirt off, a pressure washer with how water...is a whole lot better.

I sprayed it down pretty good once, and let everything dry. I came back a couple days later and briefly scrubbed with soap in a brush where I could reach. It wasn't perfect, and I could spend a lot more time cleaning, but I decided getting it back together was a bit more important.

Got a new exhaust manifold:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4747/...0e2d4db9_c.jpg

Pressure washed it, wiped it down with mineral spirits, then applied VHT High Temp Paint:

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Got the manifold bolts cleaned up and some paint thrown on them.

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Most of the way back in and there:

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Rockers looked nice and clean when I pulled the cover:

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Not too far off now!

As mentioned, I got a new alternator installed.

There wasn't anything wrong with the old one, but I wanted something better than stock.

So, in my perusing around, I came across an alternator somewhat commonly swapping in, for far cheaper than normal on Amazon.

ACDelco 334-1446, Durango 5.9L - 160 Amps

Was able to score it for ~$115 on Amazon.

Install wasn't too bad. It's bigger than stock, so the bracket needs to be ground some.

Got the bracket modified, and threw some paint back on it.

Here's the only picture I got of it installed:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4760/...ecc7a610_c.jpg

You can see some POR-15 in the picture as well. Below the battery box is an area the always seems to be a magnet for rust. I wire wheeled it and put on some POR-15. One spot might need to be cut out and redone at a later time.

So, the other thing I got taken care of, was a battery cable upgrade.

I bartered some LED stuff with XJWonders (MeanLemons Battery Cables), for a 2AWG set.

It took me a few hours to get it all in place, as I'm a bit attentive to making routing as clean as possible without the cable touching things, firmly secured, etc.

My "review"

Pros:

- Great Crimps
- Great cable
- Comes with everything needed (mostly)

Cons:

- Was shipped two negative battery terminals
- In some areas, I would have made the cable different
- The cable lug end meant for the alternator, didn't fit my stock stud or the new Alternators stud.

I'll add some pictures:

Connected to the alternator, I added a rubber wire boot (I've got a bunch of spare electrical stuff). The stock plastic cover wouldn't fit on the 2AWG. I had to drill out the lug to fit on the alternator stud.

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Final routing. Not the "most" ideal as I'd have it laid out, but it will work just fine.

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I drilled and mounted the fuse holder along the fenderwell.

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I used some MLV underneath it for a couple reasons:

- The plastic plugs on the bottom of the stud terminals kept falling off, this this will prevent an unwanted grounding of the terminals on the fender.

- As the fender is not fully flat, it allows some cushion and vibration dampening to the fuse holder box.

Line to the Alternator (red), and line to the starter (inside wire sheath). I affixed the starter cable inside some new plastic sheathing, and then mounted it with a rubber lined clamp to an existing hole there. I zip tied the alternator cable to that plastic sheathing, as well the the A/C line (with some hose spiced around the A/C line as a barrier/protection from rubbing).

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On my buggy, all lines like these were sheathed in Fire Sleeve. I was going to do that on these as well since I a bunch extra, but didn't end up doing it. I might in the future, as electrical and electrical caused fires...are no joke.

Cover trimmed and reinstalled:

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Some of the main cable changed I would have made, were cables that went from the battery, to the PDC, and from the Fuse to the PDC. I would have made these much shorter jumpers, as you can see in the last picture they're kind of "twirled".

However, I do realize this added length allows for some flexibility in mounting locations.

I was going to cut the wires and make them shorter, but realized all my lugs were sizes other than 2AWG, and I didn't feel like running to the store to get some.

Also, not pictured is the new block ground, from the engine to the fire wall.

The thicker 2AWG wire definitely makes routing a bit harder, since it doesn't bend as easy, thus tight turns aren't possible.

That being said, it's what I had planned on making, and it's a well built kit.

:grin:

dang i'm loving this build, all the small things matter anal as i am your wifes prolly same way as mine she hates it

Looks like your brown dog bushing is coming out? Could just be the way it looks.

Yeah, I noticed that as well.

I'll be looking into ordering some additional bushings. For now, they'll work as needed.

Meh, my wife knew what she was getting into...the first night we met.

I was...slightly...inebriated (few days after my ex and I broke up), and I took her into the garage, pointed at the half finished buggy, and said "that's your competition" :laughing:

She's perfectly fine to go read a book while I'm in the shop or cuddle with the dogs. As long as other stuff around the house is getting done...she's more than fine with it :thumbup1:

You certainly found a one of a kind lol. Some of us out here are not as lucky. Mine is acceptable to a point but I tend to get carried away and just want to get things done. That is when it pisses her off.

They have lifetime warranty I think but not sure on the bushings.

Yeah they sell the bushing.

I'll need to delve into a little more, since it appears the entire mount is off by 1/4", thus causing a gap on one side, and the lip on the other side to be currently crushed.

Hoping its an easy adjustment, and not something that is going to be a pain to fix (as a result of the impact. I'll undo the trans mount and see if it settles some.

I've about got the engine wrapped up...it's been in the single digits, or below zero lately.

Though I can heat my shop, it also start to hurt the wallet doing it every night.

I noticed my steering pump return line was crimped, so that has been pulled and in the process of replacing. I'll be doing a full flush before connecting the line back up.

I went to try and flush the fuel system since it's been sitting so long. Went to jumper the fuel pump via the relay...nadda.

Did some looking through, and decided to see if the pump was getting power. it was, so it looks like a new pump is in order.

The pump was actually replaces by my friend I got the Jeep from. It had sat long enough that the pump died. Appears to have happened again.

Since I plan on keeping this Jeep, I'll get a full Bosch Assembly and drop it in.

Other than that all I need to do it throw in the radiator, fill it up, and in theory it should be back to running.

Once I know it runs, I'll get the rest of the interior and body slammed back in and on :gunsmilie:

Well,

I've been cranking on this to say the least. Need to get working on the buggy, so this thing needs out!

So, got the power steering flushed through real well. Flush over a gallon through.

I used a combination of the wheels elevated to turn, and a way to turn the PS pump (something I learned from bleeding my full hydro system).

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4783/...a1b32710_c.jpg

Turn the wheels half a dozen to dozen times, then run the pump (slowly) to flush. Repeat for what seems like eternity :laugh:

Did some wiring harness "unmending" for O2 Sensors.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4704/...052fc5ef_c.jpg

Pretty well there:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4615/...88c859a9_c.jpg

It got loomed and put all back in the rail cover after.

Dirtbound Steering Box Spacer got welded up and painted. Not my finest welding/painting, but it was late, I was tired, and no one's going to see it.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4612/...eb7c14c3_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4655/...09ab3835_c.jpg

I did have to take some material off the bottom corner, and the front top corner for mine to sit right.

I went to install it, and the bolts were just not going in like they should. Even my 1/2" impact didn't want to make them go. So, since I didn't want to risk snapping a bolt or breaking the box...out came the taps. Retapped and threaded (really just cleaning up the threads) of the steering box and the bolts. Went together like a charm after.

Still a pain though since the steering box isn't the most tap friendly location.