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Project: Keepin' it clean

Old Mar 14, 2013 | 07:20 PM
  #391  
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From: Plymouth CT
Year: 1988
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Makes a difference I guess haha.

I think it would be the most practical way on a renix or older jeep.
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 09:38 PM
  #392  
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From: PA KOTUFU!
Year: 1998
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FMU and raising FP is not a very good way to accurately deliver the right amount of fuel when under boost. It works if your fuel pump is up to it, but there are better options.
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Old Mar 15, 2013 | 05:30 AM
  #393  
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Spring is coming!!
Time for more boost and a 2.5" front downpipe/crossover exhaust pipe and re-dyno.
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Old Mar 15, 2013 | 07:38 AM
  #394  
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Dude, this thing is freakin' sweet. are those LED lights worth the money? or would lets say 8000k HIDs be better?
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Old Mar 15, 2013 | 08:12 AM
  #395  
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From: Snowville, PA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 torque monster w/ a supercharger
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Originally Posted by CobraMarty
Spring is coming!!
Time for more boost and a 2.5" front downpipe/crossover exhaust pipe and re-dyno.
Yupp. I'm actually going to be afraid to go into boost for the first time..
Originally Posted by griff98xj
Dude, this thing is freakin' sweet. are those LED lights worth the money? or would lets say 8000k HIDs be better?
Thanks!! Which ones are we talking about? The Truck-Lites are better than 8000k HIDS because you still have a low beam. Also, putting 8000k HIDs in a stock housing will make everyone on the road hate you.. I put 6000k HIDs in my dad's 1998 Ford F150 and they are an improvement over the stock halogens, but they're still kinda sucky because the stock housings are not optimized for the HID bulb...

If you have the money, Truck-lites > 8000k HIDs. (truck-lites are also closer to 6000k)

If we're talking about my Chinese knockoff/clone light bars... ABSOLUTELY WORTH THE MONEY!!! I paid $300 for the 20" and 10" together (and i think that also included shipping). The same setup from Rigid Industries would have cost $1100 plus shipping...

Last edited by bpas328xi; Mar 15, 2013 at 08:32 AM.
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Old Mar 15, 2013 | 10:40 AM
  #396  
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Originally Posted by CobraMarty
FMU and raising FP is not a very good way to accurately deliver the right amount of fuel when under boost. It works if your fuel pump is up to it, but there are better options.
I would do it with 30 lb fuel one toes so your not upping the line pressure that much and I'm also curious to see of it will work with a gm 2 bar map
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Old Mar 15, 2013 | 12:16 PM
  #397  
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Originally Posted by Luke95
I would do it with 30 lb fuel one toes so your not upping the line pressure that much and I'm also curious to see of it will work with a gm 2 bar map
It'll probably kinda sorta work, but you're supposed to get a setup like that tuned (i.e. Chris Tuned). You can't just slap bigger injectors in and expect it to run properly (supercharged a 98 f150 this way (bigger injectors and a lightning MAF).and it wouldn't run properly without me tuning the ecu.) you also.need some sort of boost retard if you want to be safe...

Last edited by bpas328xi; Mar 15, 2013 at 12:29 PM.
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Old Mar 15, 2013 | 08:11 PM
  #398  
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Managed to fix the no continuity issue.
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And then it fell off the trash can...
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So... I put the spring back together..
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Started winding it..
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And then the spring exploded again..
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Fixed it and then started converting it to LED. (smashed the old burned out bulb to get something to connect the LEDs to)
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Lit up. 12w worth of LEDs. Lol.
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All back together and A LOT cleaner than when I puled it from the junkyard. Might install it tomorrow.
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*edit*
retracting mechanism is messed up again... gotta figure out why it keeps doing that.

Last edited by bpas328xi; Mar 15, 2013 at 09:29 PM.
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Old Mar 16, 2013 | 02:34 PM
  #399  
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Went out to test a modified version of the RAD shifter that my dad and I have been working on.. (more pics and vids to come soon) Of course it decides to snow. Lol. Aaaannnddd the MSD decided to take a dump..... No power steering or brakes is.. Interesting.
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PROTOTYPE!!!
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And my new shift linkage came.
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Old Mar 16, 2013 | 03:17 PM
  #400  
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Originally Posted by bpas328xi
It'll probably kinda sorta work, but you're supposed to get a setup like that tuned (i.e. Chris Tuned). You can't just slap bigger injectors in and expect it to run properly (supercharged a 98 f150 this way (bigger injectors and a lightning MAF).and it wouldn't run properly without me tuning the ecu.) you also.need some sort of boost retard if you want to be safe...
Problem is is that their isnt a comp to tune in the older XJs
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Old Mar 16, 2013 | 03:39 PM
  #401  
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Originally Posted by Luke95
Problem is is that their isnt a comp to tune in the older XJs
Well... I only deal with 97+ since that is where all my knowledge it and is also what I have (x3 XJs). Lol

7th injector and SS piggyback should work on a renix. I don't have a renix to test it on, but I'm confident that it would work.

Megasquirt makes a plug-and-play replacement tunable ECU for renix. Plugs into the stock ECU plug. Just looked it.up. Delphi 56 for 87-90 renix jeeps. Not sure what's required to get it up and running, but that is another option.


Just ordered a cap, rotor, wire, and coil kit from Performance Distributors to replace the cheaper version that I originally put on my Jeep... Starting to learn to buy quality parts from the start. Lol.

Last edited by bpas328xi; Mar 16, 2013 at 03:51 PM.
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Old Mar 16, 2013 | 04:41 PM
  #402  
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Originally Posted by bpas328xi
Well... I only deal with 97+ since that is where all my knowledge it and is also what I have (x3 XJs). Lol

7th injector and SS piggyback should work on a renix. I don't have a renix to test it on, but I'm confident that it would work.

Megasquirt makes a plug-and-play replacement tunable ECU for renix. Plugs into the stock ECU plug. Just looked it.up. Delphi 56 for 87-90 renix jeeps. Not sure what's required to get it up and running, but that is another option.


Just ordered a cap, rotor, wire, and coil kit from Performance Distributors to replace the cheaper version that I originally put on my Jeep... Starting to learn to buy quality parts from the start. Lol.
I like that idearrrrr
I think the biggest issue id run into is how program it. Currently im to busy working on my suspension/tires to have the money right now.
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Old Mar 16, 2013 | 08:40 PM
  #403  
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Here's a little something my dad and I are working on. Gear position indicator and a modified RAD shifter. This video is just showing the gear position indicator with the transmission in "auto mode". My GoPro didn't capture the part when I shifted it in "manual mode"... I'll make a new vid of "manual mode" later.

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Old Mar 17, 2013 | 04:20 PM
  #404  
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Merging onto the freeway. Manually shifting at 5000 rpm. 32x11.5 tires, stock 3.55 gears, massive exhaust leak, almost full tank of gas, maybe a slight amount of belt slip. I've been meaning to tighten that belt for like a week and a half.. Lmao. This is why I hate putting on a new belt. They ALWAYS stretch and take a while to get all stretched out and finally hold a constant tension... Imma go tighten it in a little bit. Lol.

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Old Mar 17, 2013 | 04:29 PM
  #405  
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Originally Posted by bpas328xi
Merging onto the freeway. Manually shifting at 5000 rpm. 32x11.5 tires, stock 3.55 gears, massive exhaust leak, almost full tank of gas, maybe a slight amount of belt slip. I've been meaning to tighten that belt for like a week and a half.. Lmao. This is why I hate putting on a new belt. They ALWAYS stretch and take a while to get all stretched out and finally hold a constant tension... Imma go tighten it in a little bit. Lol.

Video Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=GZ7rMjNdmg0
Pure awesomeness!
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