It's just in the rubber. Still holds air fine and the shop I go to all the time says that it's fine and will pass inspection. No biggie. Lol. And I think the Kevlar is deeper in the sidewall.

More of an excuse to get 37s. Lmao.

 

Seem to be pretty strong tires then, nice lol!

 

37s??!

 

Not for a while. Lmao.

 

Teaser update.

Still gotta do a bunch of wiring and stuff... Hoping to have all the lights working and put the front end back together in a few hours.

And I found the air ratchet... I LOVE THIS THING!!!

 

Looking good!

 

Loving this build bro, you are not afraid of electrical work.. lol Keep it up!

 

Thanks!
Gracias. It's not THAT bad. Lmao I still have to figure out how to organize my relays and fuses since they're kinda just dangling off on the positive distribution block that's mounted on my firewall...

Since my laptop is finally back in working order, IT'S UPDATE TIME!!!
Why is Jeep on a lift?


To install the ATI balancer and and a smaller supercharger pulley for MOAR boost...

Umm... Okay. Maybe not to install a smaller supercharger pulley then..

Still going to try and get the correct smaller pulley.
Time for LED light bar shenanigans!!
Air tools!! Didn't use the impact though.


Made removing this even easier.


Herro.


Old wiring ripped out... I later found that a Daystar switch had developed an internal short which was the reason why my fogs and 100w HF lights stopped working... Oh well. I needed to redo my wiring better this time using split loom and better wire anyway. Piece of advice. Buy switches from OTRATTW instead because they use LEDs to light up their switches. (Daystar uses incandescent bulbs that can short Vout to ground).


The new switches. My dad ordered a bunch of switches and ended up buying some SPST ones that he has no use for, so I took those with the intent of putting green LEDs in them (mine came with red ones).


LED bar mounted. I must've measured at least 5 times... Looks like it's only 1/64" off center.


Used 4 pin trailer connectors to make the bullbar and bumper easier to remove. (wires are doubled up and each light has its own connector)


Testing...


Still testing...


All off.


Just headlights and fogs.


All on. Those 100w HF lights look kinda silly and don't provide any more light, so I'm probably going to read this pirate thread and convert them to LED. Might do something similar to the fogs too.


These pictures were taken with my cellphone and do not do the brightness of my lighting setup any justice. It's really REALLY bright in person.

Truck-Lite LED headlights on low beam and 35w HID fogs.


High beam and fogs.


High beam, 100w HF lights, and fogs.


High beam, 100w HF lights, fogs, 10" LED bar, and 20" LED bar. Not bad for Chinese clones ehh??


Voltage at idle w/ nothing on.


Voltage with everything on. (it was dropping to 11v at times...)


So... I upgraded to an AGM battery. If I add any more lights/winch/stuff I'll probably have to look into adding a second alternator and battery... (still thinking on how to do this..)


And I watched this video which makes me want more LED lights.... Still looking for some LED taillights though.

 

SNOW!!!!!

 

Did some driveway wheeling. Front swaybar was connected. Looks like my extended extended rear bumpstops need to be extended some more.... Or I need to start working on my idea to put a set of front flares on the rear. Already have a set of flares and brackets sitting in the garage. Just need to get a pair of front bumper endcaps.

 

Good day at the junkyard.


I FOUND ONE!!!!
Probably going to put 4 3w LEDs in series to replace the halogen bulb. All I.need to do is disassemble it to fix the retracting mechanism.

 

Supercharger install has a little over 8000 miles on it. And the Jeep is running better than ever.

 

Post up how you fix the ratcheting mechanism when you do it, i've had one of those for a while but havent got around to fixing it to ratchet back in.

 

Would an FMU be able to work with one of these and raised psi Injectors? I know that Trubo TPI runs this on jeepforum

 

I already fixed it... All I did was drill out the rivets, take it apart, clean all the old grease off, smother EVERYWHERE with dielectric grease, then rewind the clock spring, and rivet it back together.
Still trying to figure out why there's no continuity between the bulb socket and the wires... (probably this weekend's project)
No, because the 98+ use a returnless fuel system.