Project high mile Steel Blue 2001 XJ
#48
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
^^^ thanks guys!!
This past Friday, I had the XJ at the local shop for an alignment. Today the wife and I took a ride up to Brattleboro, VT. Around 150 miles round trip. Jeep drove nice.
So far I've done ~650 miles in this XJ. Next up will be U-joints in the rear axle as well as new bushings in the rear shackles.
JT
This past Friday, I had the XJ at the local shop for an alignment. Today the wife and I took a ride up to Brattleboro, VT. Around 150 miles round trip. Jeep drove nice.
So far I've done ~650 miles in this XJ. Next up will be U-joints in the rear axle as well as new bushings in the rear shackles.
JT
#49
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Got a question as I plan to do mine. I think I remember you using a spacer on the coils??? If I’m wrong sorry.
But if uou did , did you do that along with the insulator/isolator? Or instead of it?
Thanks
But if uou did , did you do that along with the insulator/isolator? Or instead of it?
Thanks
#50
Seasoned Member
Coil spacers are usually applied in addition to the isolator. This should make lift calculations easier too as you're not changing multiple factors and your spacers are a known measurement as is your current lift. I don't think there is a strong argument to say you NEED to have an isolator but it is normally kept.
Last edited by ixanay_on-the_exjay; 01-07-2019 at 12:41 PM.
#52
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
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Tonight I replaced the rear driveshaft U-joint at the rear axle. Had a low speed vibration (20-30 mph). The vibration was definetly worse when I had the Teraflex lift shackles.
Hopefully this takes care of the vibration. I'll find out tomorrow AM on the way to work.
Hopefully this takes care of the vibration. I'll find out tomorrow AM on the way to work.
#54
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Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0
I'm open to suggestions on what to check next....
JT
#55
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I would say you should pull the front DS and drive around just to rule out the possibility that you're dealing with angle/u-joint issues in the front. Do you have the Low Pinion D30 in either of your Jeeps? Not sure if 99 is included but I've read here that 2000/2001 are generally more susceptible to driveline vibes. Reading back you give clue that the vibes got worse with the shackles which is a red flag for lift related vibes, specifically the rear. You also mentioned that you measured from fender to center of axle - not sure how accurate that is. I would double check using the Top of Axle Tube >> Frame Rail measurement. Stock measurements are ~6.75" front and ~6" back. You might have more than you think. You can test the T-Case drop by just throwing one in or incrementally adding washers until the vibes disappear. I have a 1" drop I just took out - might be overkill for you but if you're interested it's yours.
#56
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Year: 1999
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I would say you should pull the front DS and drive around just to rule out the possibility that you're dealing with angle/u-joint issues in the front. Do you have the Low Pinion D30 in either of your Jeeps? Not sure if 99 is included but I've read here that 2000/2001 are generally more susceptible to driveline vibes. Reading back you give clue that the vibes got worse with the shackles which is a red flag for lift related vibes, specifically the rear. You also mentioned that you measured from fender to center of axle - not sure how accurate that is. I would double check using the Top of Axle Tube >> Frame Rail measurement. Stock measurements are ~6.75" front and ~6" back. You might have more than you think. You can test the T-Case drop by just throwing one in or incrementally adding washers until the vibes disappear. I have a 1" drop I just took out - might be overkill for you but if you're interested it's yours.
But I decided it was easier to just go back to the stock rear shackles, which also made the ride height more level. And the vibs improved significantly.
More info to follow later tonight.
#57
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Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0
Measured the distance between the rear axle and the frame - somewhere between 8.0 and 8.25"
Tonight I put 3 washers as spacers on the TC mount, about 1/4". Can't add any more than that due to the stupid studs in the frame. If it helps, I will get longer bolts and pull out the studs this weekend.....
Tonight I put 3 washers as spacers on the TC mount, about 1/4". Can't add any more than that due to the stupid studs in the frame. If it helps, I will get longer bolts and pull out the studs this weekend.....
#58
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Year: 1999
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The 3 washers (1/'4") TC drop helped, but still had some vibs. So I ended up removing the x-member studs and dropping the cross member a half inch and that did the trick. Much better.
Also did an oil change last night. Good for another 3k miles.
New speakers for the front door are on order. Was hoping that they came in today, but no dice. So I'll have to change them this coming week after work.
Also did an oil change last night. Good for another 3k miles.
New speakers for the front door are on order. Was hoping that they came in today, but no dice. So I'll have to change them this coming week after work.
Last edited by jturbo; 01-16-2019 at 07:35 AM.
#59
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Glad you were able to
a) get those studs out with no problems I had two snap on me, bolts are much nicer.
b) get those vibes sorted. 1/2" seems like a small price to pay for the improved suspension.
What speakers did you go with? Spring for 6"?
a) get those studs out with no problems I had two snap on me, bolts are much nicer.
b) get those vibes sorted. 1/2" seems like a small price to pay for the improved suspension.
What speakers did you go with? Spring for 6"?
#60
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Year: 1999
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